turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

lolol

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

What ?

When newbies asking valid tech questions get replies from a know it all with a very condescending tone who proceeds to take 14 months to assemble an engine that a normal person could get done in a single day; the words irony and hypocrisy start huddling together at the tip of one's tongue.

tony_2018

Have a maintenance window that can't be stopped...we have to push through this crazy weather and get onsite.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Meh, it's a toy. I'll play with my toys when I feel like playing with my toys. I have a second reliable car to get me where I need to go, and I'm not inconveniencing myself or anyone else by not finishing the project "zomg yesterday", and I don't see how my lack of a timeline somehow nullifies my track record of good advice

Besides, even if I did finish the car tomorrow, with the weather, I wouldn't be able to actually play with it for another month or two. It'll be done when it's done, and I'm not going to crawl around in ice and snow just to finish it right now.

tony_2018

Yeah, you have no deadline to meet, so why the rush.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Removed the wrong halfshaft on Monday, and got the passenger side axle installed. Unfortunately, the wrong halfshaft damaged the transmission seal on that side, so I had to pick up a new one. Oddly enough, it was the most reasonably priced part I've ever gotten from the stealership. $12

Wrong halfshaft


New seal!


Axle installed


Monday or Tuesday, if we get decent weather, I might just get to start the car. Maybe.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Also, need to order new brakes. It's been sitting so long, the rotors are rusted to ****, and the pads...well, I just don't trust the brakes to do their job, so I'm getting new ones. I'm just split between going with Brembo blanks and Hawk or EBC pads, or just getting the EBC "kit" that has coated, slotted rotors and pads.

Bently_Coop

Hawks and Centric rotors. The work preety good.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Aha, finally finished with the axles! Sorry for the lack of updates, but I've been dealing with this ****.



So, replacing the half shaft seal is pretty easy. The seal is rubber, and sees a lot of heat. Rubber = heat = hard rubber. Don't try to remove it with your fingers - it won't work. Don't try to use some limp dick little pick set, either - they'll bend. I managed to snap a pick in half before I said **** this, and found the biggest screw driver I could.



See this big, glorious ******? That's a 3/8" shank 12" flat blade. Stick it in behind the seal, and pry against the casing. The seal will pop right out. I've seen some pretty crazy, complicated methods, and seen "go get this tool" ****, but all you need is a screw driver.

Once you get the old seal out, wipe off the seal race. Just a clean, dry rag or paper towel will do the trick. Once you have it clean and dry, you should have this.

Driver's side transmission seal race


Take the new seal, and cover the outside with a light coat of Hondabond. Don't do anything to the inside edge of it. In fact, try to keep your fingers off of it, too. The seal comes from the factory with some grease already impregnated into it, and you don't want to go ******* that up. Gently slide it into the race. Don't jump straight to "it's in all the way". Start off by getting it seated all the way around, then slowly work your way around, pressing in a little at a time. If the transmission is off of the engine, you can also use something flat to press it in evenly, but if you're like me and already have the transmission installed, then just gently work your way around with your fingers, pressing it in a little bit at a time.

Seal, Hondabonded. You can see the grease on the inside edge, as well.


Seal, installed


Now then, the half shaft. It's easy. Slide it in. There's no circlip to fight with. Since it bolts up on one side, you don't even need a circlip. There are three bolts that hold them in, and they're funny little ******* with a particularly long collar, to keep the half shaft from being able to move after it's bolted in. The OEM bolts are cheap. Buy them. A 14mm socket is all you need here, but having a small (3") extension, or even just a deep well socket, will make life easier for you. Working with just a standard depth socket, you'll be limited on room to move your ratchet, but a small extension or deep well will give you enough room to move around the brace.

Half shaft installed


From there, it's as simple as installing the axle. Axles are easy. If you really need help with it, this thread covers it quite well.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Now then, transmission fluid. Easy to do, but keeping in the "DIY/How-To" theme, let's do this!

Hey guys, guess what? Evidently I'm stupid and don't know what a drain bolt is. **** it, let's clip this and just pretend it never happened.

Funny looking drain bolt (well, it's funny looking because it isn't the drain bolt)


There are multiple ways to fill a transmission, but honestly, as long as you don't over- or under-fill the transmission, there isn't really a wrong way. I've used the fill hole before, and to me, it's more of a pain in the *** than it's worth, so this time around I went for the VSS hole method. The VSS is held in by a 3 pin connector, and a single 10mm bolt. It's a decently long bolt, and a little awkward to get to, but still easier than using the proper fill hole, IMO.

VSS location, sensor removed


Look at that clean ******


Now for the fill part. Clean off the drain bolt, as well as the threads in the casing where the drain bolt goes. Once again, a clean, dry rag or paper towel is your friend. Apply a bead of Hondabond around the threads of the bolt, and thread it in until it's seated. Some Hondabond will ooze out - don't worry about it. It's supposed to seal the transmission to keep the fluid in.

(Not the) drain bolt re-installed


Once you've done that, You'll use a long-as-**** funnel to make life easy. Stick that ****** down in the VSS hole, so you don't have fluid going all over the place. You may have to unplug a sensor or two, to make it easier to get the funnel down there, but that's no big deal. Once you have it in the hole, start pouring! The transmission fluid capacity is 2.3 quarts for a fluid replacement, or 2.4 quarts for an overhaul.

"Extra Long Funnel" - $5 at your local parts store


Funnel down the hole


Pouring that beautiful green juice in


Reinstall the VSS (don't forget to plug it back in, too), reinstall the wheel, and you're good to go!

tony_2018

Hey man......umm....thats not the drain bolt.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Uh, wat? It's...the lowest bolt on that side of the transmission...

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hah. Haha. hahaha wow I'm ******* stupid. That bolt is for something else. Disregard.



There's the drain bolt. And the fill bolt, if you want to use it.

tony_2018

Its cool.

edit: I will say I have used the vss opening to refill fluid before.

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

I don't see a reason NOT to use the FILL hole to FILL the transmission. When I change my fluid I want the level to be correct not just close to correct. It's easily accessible from the top. No need to even jack the car up to fill it. A funnel with a couple foot section of hose attatched to it makes it a breeze. What benefit is there to creating a shortcut that isn't shorter than the original process and could possibly yield anything less than perfect results?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Well, there's a problem with your "perfect results" scenario. Yes, when the car is perfectly level, it'll start to come out of the drain hole when you're at capacity, but what about those of us who chose to work safely on their car, and use jack stands? Jack stands don't go low enough to keep the car level. What about those of us who have to work on a slight incline, or with the car tilted in one direction?

As long as you know the correct amount to fill with, and don't just go dumping fluid in, there's nothing wrong with filling from the VSS.

tony_2018

Also, you didn't have to hondabond the axle seals. Well I never did because if I pull a seal and it doesn't have hondabond than I'm not putting any on it. You might have a tough time replacing it again in the future.

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

Not really an excuse. Just because the car is on jack stands doesn't mean it can't be easily taken off of them and set back on its wheels.

Maybe, but especially in this case where you removed the wrong drain bolt, there's no way you got the transmission fully drained. So now you likely have too much fluid even if you think you added the "correct amount."

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

I wouldn't question how NAR does it if it works for him and others. it's worked plenty of times for me and I've never over or under filled a tranny, so.

*on another note, I finally got around to reading all of this thread, props on everything you've done bud!

tony_2018

Just pointing it out, he's been working hard so what good will it do now to question his work and probably have him freak out, hehehe.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yes, let's turn the single step of removing one bolt to pull the VSS into the multiple steps of reinstalling wheels, removing the jack stands, putting the jack stands back under the car, and removing the wheels again. Because turning one step into 3 is always a good idea.

Like I said, the transmission has been shipped across the country, stored, opened, closed, stored again, and finally installed. It's as dry as any drain could possibly get it. Instead of cherry picking what you want to read, maybe you should read everything that's typed...

Thanks man Yep, there's multiple ways to skin a mongoose.

Look here you

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

Seeing how Honda considers it a good idea, I think I'll continue to do it that way. If you prefer to use your method at the possible expense of your transmission's health that's your decision.


So it's safe to assume this is your first time doing a transmission fluid change? Because if not my original statement remains true. If you don't remove the correct drain bolt you never drain it fully. If you then refill 2.4 quarts without checking the fill plug level, you are going to have too much fluid.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

"At the expense of my transmission's health"? That's cute. It really is. With how much of a hardon you seem to have for me, you'd think I would remember who you were...but nope. Just another nobody who thinks he knows something special. Taking a quick look at your posting history, you seem to enjoy being an idiot under the guise of knowing what you're doing, so how about you go back to shitting up the other lesser forums and clear out?

Or hey, keep only reading half of what's being said, and making yourself look like an idiot. Doesn't matter to me. You'll still be nobody special, regardless of which route you take.

rollinmyda

iTrader: (19)

I have a hard-on for you? Haha really? So having a differing opinion translates into a metaphorical erection? I was unaware, but seeing how you treat every new user with a question it would seem you're more familiar with the term than I am.

Think what you want of me, I could care less. I come on this forum because I own and drive hondas not because I hate my life and don't have a dog at home to kick. Go ahead and keep scolding newbies because they didn't read all the FAQs. Seems you've found your place in the world where you can be a condescending ***** who appears to know it all when in reality you don't know your *** from a transmission drain bolt hole.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You say you don't care, but you keep on shitting up my build thread. Actions speak louder.