mrharmonic

naaa bro that was a b20v with type r over size pistons 84.5 that was the only thing done to the block and it just had vlave triain its all in the tuning 230 to the wheels

dj theoretic

Well this is what I got...

B16a Second Gen
-CTR cams (exhaust and intake)
-Skunk2 Intake Manifold
-HYtech Headers (4-2-2-1)
-No cat straight pipe
-Skunk2 Cam Gears
-68mm throttle body ( not installed yet )

Plans for tuning ? "Hondata S100"

AM I IN RIGHT PATH FOR BOOST?



SO MANY OPTIONS KINDA SUCKS, BUT THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR OPINION!

DVDr

iTrader: (2)

I would just get a GSR motor and ecu call it a day.

If you want more power and make it more interesting then LS vtec and use the pistons from your B16 and head. makes for a great cheap build with power.

Everything else you have will work great for it.

------------


If you want boost, then ya you have good things, just sell the hytech header. and go turbo. ( me personally would swap out the pistons to something with al ittle lower compression, but power with reliability has been proven with stock motors )

dj theoretic

very true !!

Jimster480

do not listen to DVDr. Getting a GSR motor is a complete waste of your money. You can boost your motor the way it is and it will be fine. For $2000 you can get a nice turbo setup and a tune, and make close to 300WHP on pump gas.

mrharmonic

ok bro since you wanna go boost i recomed you going lsv not b20 and highly recomend you geting low cp pistons and rods just do a full build dont rush it or else you wasted the money. do a full build and you can safly dail boost 13psi easy just go low and a good valave train like skunk or blox. if people wanna bash on my go for it but i have built meny relible b20 and never had any prolems with them with nitrus and boost so go for it i even have a few vouches alredy on doing them on hear

dj theoretic

I'll look into Low Comp pistons. I'm thinking of just slapin a B18b short block with the B16a head since the short block already has low Compression Pistons and throw back on the B16a Camshafts. YAY or NaY???

Jimster480

nah a LS/VTEC would have high compression by default, as much or possibly more than your B16.

4g4dcruisin

Its all about displacement.

Best bet would be a b20 bottom with a GSR top end, im curious, could you use a c5 head in an ls/b20-vtec set up? i dont think i've seen that before.

The only bad thing about going to b20 route is that you cannot BAR it, once they see the "b20" on that block stamp, its over. Light truck motor in a car, cant do it.

go b18b with gsr head with ITR or CTR cams, LS tranny...i had this with CTR cams, would rape GSR's and b16a's all day long.

oh, and i was running a virgin p72 no problem.

newtron63h

keep the B16. theres no reason to go with another engine. build it for boost or N/A, boost will have a higher hp potential(but building it for N/A can still get you in the hp range you want.....just takes more money)..........but in either case i say stroke it too, get you some more torque.

4g4dcruisin

Hey op, i was curious, i saw you have a 94 but are you running an siR or siRII? im asking cuz the 10hp difference between the two.

Since you already have the b16a, just get the hondata you want, good 2 1/2 exhaust, or 3" if you want to boost later.

mrharmonic

a c5 head is a b16 head if you did not know that. 18c5 type r motor look in to it its not a gsr head or a i18 lleater head its a b16 just fyi

nmb16a

like i said why wast money b16 is a good motor boost and build player

elf469

Yes A Twurbo kit! lol

http://www.customminishop.com/product/alta-twurbo.htm

Jimster480

yep, its a b16 head with Type R cams and i believe it also has a mild hand porting/polish.

dj theoretic

good info !!!

Nichelson_Performance

i agree. i don't see what the point is in having a c5 unless you are building something you want to keep all stock for the "jdm" purposes

jdm type r's only have like 20 more hp than a gsr. i'll be d**ned if i'd pay 1000-1500 more just to have 20 more hp

just my .02 cents though

elf469

X2
I'd rather use that extra $1000-$1500 towards a set of light weight wheels or another useful mod

em1effekt

b20 vtec

Jimster480

but thats what most people do. They spend $2000 on a B16 to have 40 more HP than their SOHC, or $3000+ to have 60 more HP (GSR). Or $1000 on a LS swap to have 20 more HP.

Because anyone could do a mini me for a couple hundred and make close to 140HP.

dj theoretic

true!!! I bought my B16a back in 2000 when people thought the B16a was the fastest thing Honda ever made, thanks to the 99-00 Civic Si. I spend 2300 and so far it's never failed. I only had minor things like clutch and distributor. I should of saved a little more for a b18c, but I was a newbee to the Honda scene back then so I didnt know the real facts.


And you right "Nelsons Performance" about the whole purpose of keeping it JDM with a B18c-R. I know the motor being the way it is will eventually Pay its self back if I ever decide to get ride of it for whatever reason. The B18c has a lot of value to it because it was worked and built by hand at Honda.

I think what I might do is get the B18c-R and buy a B20 short block (from the junk Yard ) and slap on my B16a head and properly build it as well.

dj theoretic

The reason why I want the B18c type R is because I will be getting the full swap for 3k out the door, unlike other shops that will sell it for $3600 to $4500

Jimster480

well i guess go for a type r if thats what you really want. But its really a complete waste of money, when boost is the only way you will ever make power anyway.
Its really the only way to make power with the few exceptions of full race builds and people like bisimoto. Other than those exceptions all motor hondas = fail. Spending tons of money on B/K/H Swaps = Fail. When your D or F powerplant can make plenty of power on boost with little or no work and still cost less. Just like a D build, which costs less than a GSR for a build and a turbo.

schia89

imo get a gsr. with the extra $1500 instead of gettin a type r your car will have more potential than a stock type r

Jimster480

he just said hes getting it for $3000 out the door. Which is cheaper than a JDM GSR Swap. or about the same price depending on where you buy it from.