engine stalls out when braking
#1
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engine stalls out when braking
my engine stalls out when i come to a stop, its kind of weird, before it will stall out my battery light will flash on and off, (the only way i know it would fully stall out is when my oil light pops up stating that the engine is off) but the thing is, it restarts just fine, this has been going on for a while, also my check engine light is on, my buddy got it read and he said it was lean. im kind of stuck on this situation, does anyone have any suggestions?
#4
how's ur idle? my idle was bouncy cause i hadn't used my car in a while so a buddy decided to mess with the idle screw. when i came to a stop i had to hold the gas to it wouldn't turn off. after a while the ecu reset the settings so it's good now. i did readjust that screw as well. that may be ur problem. if ur car starts again i'd doubt it's ur battery.
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Re: (perseverance)
yeah i do have to gas it a little to make it not stall out, but imma try that first, im trying to spend the least money possible, thanks for your add
#6
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Sounds like a bad alternator.
Pull it, go to autozone, and have them test it.
The autozone test is like 95% accurate, I've seen it wrong once (tested good when it was bad) - but like 19 times out of 20 it's accurate.
EDIT:
PS: Is it hard to start at all? Any extra cranking? Average start for a 1.5 or 1.6L engine is on like the 3rd or 4th crank with a good, charged, battery assumed.
Pull it, go to autozone, and have them test it.
The autozone test is like 95% accurate, I've seen it wrong once (tested good when it was bad) - but like 19 times out of 20 it's accurate.
EDIT:
PS: Is it hard to start at all? Any extra cranking? Average start for a 1.5 or 1.6L engine is on like the 3rd or 4th crank with a good, charged, battery assumed.
#7
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Re: (Syndacate)
no it restarts fine, i was driving it again today, it also stalls out when i decrease speed after going like 50 or even 40, i notices it acts up when it reaches like 25mph, my buddy is saying it might be my o2 sensor or my fuel injectors, but i will get it tested again this weekend and have my alternator checked out.
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#9
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Re: (tha_badguy)
I'm not sure what kind of car you've got, but my 1995 Ex 5 speed kept stalling out when it was coming to a stop or any time you let off of the throttle. It had a CEL for an o2 sensor heater. I replaced the o2 sensor, and it started working fine again.
#10
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i got the same problem...check engine light on..stalls out when i come to a stop. i think it maybe the alt.
not sure still gotta stop by autozone to get it checked out.
mine has hard starts on low gas. i have to crank it twice to fire up..it that normal?
not sure still gotta stop by autozone to get it checked out.
mine has hard starts on low gas. i have to crank it twice to fire up..it that normal?
#11
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First, A bad O2 sensor won't do anything to hurt a cold start. O2 sensors don't work when they are cold, so the ECU uses a fuel map before it gets more accurate data from the sensor. It could cause idling problems, but the ECU will start ignoring data from the O2 sensor once it can determine the data is bad (once it's up to temperature).
89MA70: The battery light should come on when your alternator is bad. My alt. belt just broke, and it doesn't throw a CEL, just the battery light.
Assuming the engine internals are ok, you're looking at a problem with either the ignition, or fuel injection.
89MA70: The battery light should come on when your alternator is bad. My alt. belt just broke, and it doesn't throw a CEL, just the battery light.
Assuming the engine internals are ok, you're looking at a problem with either the ignition, or fuel injection.
#12
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Re: (89MA70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89MA70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mine has hard starts on low gas. i have to crank it twice to fire up..it that normal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Every Civic I've owned and driven (all 4 of them) has taken longer to start when the tank is nearly empty. Solution? Put more gas in it and it starts right up.
Every Civic I've owned and driven (all 4 of them) has taken longer to start when the tank is nearly empty. Solution? Put more gas in it and it starts right up.
#13
Re: (qat727)
1. start car and let it idle while the IACV electrical connection is unplugged.
2. turn off car
3. plug IACV electrical connection back in
4. just reset the ECU by pulling out the hazard clip (under the fuse box) while the car is off (for about 20 seconds)
5. start car
If this does not work, you should clean out your IACV with some brake fluid. It can't be the battery since the car starts up fine...also check that the battery terminals are tight just in case.
2. turn off car
3. plug IACV electrical connection back in
4. just reset the ECU by pulling out the hazard clip (under the fuse box) while the car is off (for about 20 seconds)
5. start car
If this does not work, you should clean out your IACV with some brake fluid. It can't be the battery since the car starts up fine...also check that the battery terminals are tight just in case.
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