SantaCruz92Si

so my mechanic that i only use because my car is currently mom funded when it comes to problems and large maintenence. well i go to him with this problem, when im driving at diff speeds and throttle my car will start bogging. it really felt like something in the clutch, when it would happen i would put the clutch in and the car would rev up to were it should be and it only happened a few times he drove it and tells me its either my pressure plate or my clutch and im like wtf i had the exedy organic race disc and the act HDPP and he said they can go out and it probably was from driver error, so my mom has him open it up he says my pressure plate is abd and to put a clutch hit in with pressure plate so i dont have to replace the clutch incase its bad too and so i dont have to pay to get the tranny opened up again (apx425for the labor). less than a week into the break in period on my centerforce dual friction, the problem is back it got worse driving up to my friends who lives up top a long hill road... and when i kicked in the clutch a couple times that rpms stayed low than shot up about 2 secs later.... so it almost seemed like my engine was loosing a cyl or compression? i dont know..... if anyone has any ideas lets me know
also how much do swap installs cost or does anyone know anyone around the bay area that will do it well for cheap? for any help

SantaCruz92Si

btw now hes saying over the phone that if gave him misinformation which caused him to mis diagnose the problem and that he will diagnose the problem for free and he know thinks its a "runability" problem with the ecu..... i smell bs and i think im going to have him diagnose for free and pay my friends mechanic who works for 50$ per hour....

duggy

dude i really could not read that ****.

use periods and paragraphs please!

EJ1 wilcox

Yeah man...

Your post is hard to read and/or understand...

So, what is the problem? Does your car die when you push the clutch in? Or, do the RPMs just drop? I'm having a hard time figuring out what's going on...

IHateJDM

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SantaCruz92Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw now hes saying over the phone that if gave him misinformation which caused him to mis diagnose the problem and that he will diagnose the problem for free and he know thinks its a "runability" problem with the ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't understand the problem, but he drove it before he worked on it, so he can't claim misinformation on you. Also, do NOT buy a new ecu. I would bet the chances of it causing (whatever your problem is) is less than 1%. They rarely go bad. If it's bogging, try some fuel injector cleaner and replace distributor cap/rotor, plugs and wires. That's all regular maintenence and I bet it'll fix it.

Pure Sol

Not that Im anywhere close to the skill level of some of the people on here, but, I agree on the ECU deal. I highly doubt that its bad and would want to get a second opinion from somebody else. Also sounds like he is trying to screw you and your mom with the misinformed and "runability" driveability deal, if he has ever worked on cars he should know better than to go from what you said and should take the problem and try to figure it out for himself. Wish you luck and keep us informed as to how it goes.