D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up?
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (civicminded
Well...
I got my new dizzy in the mail today, if it wasn't for this hellish head/sinus cold I would go put it on, the car is at a relatives house 30 miles from here.
Anyway, the damned thing looks and feels a hell of a lot better than my old one, which didnt even have the inner cover(bad rebuilder or bad previous owner?), also the shaft has a lot less play.
I will let everybody know what happens within a few days.
Modified by Hurricane at 11:34 AM 5/11/2005
I got my new dizzy in the mail today, if it wasn't for this hellish head/sinus cold I would go put it on, the car is at a relatives house 30 miles from here.
Anyway, the damned thing looks and feels a hell of a lot better than my old one, which didnt even have the inner cover(bad rebuilder or bad previous owner?), also the shaft has a lot less play.
I will let everybody know what happens within a few days.
Modified by Hurricane at 11:34 AM 5/11/2005
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (civicminded
Well... strange story.
Apparently the original "only-when-warmed-up" hesitation I had was from worn out plugs, rotor and cap. The plugs were Bosch Platinums and the platinum electrode had almost burned completely out of the insulator (can hear previous owner saying "those are $8 each Platinums, good for years, they CAN'T be causing the problem").
Last week when I replaced them, I reinstalled the screw which holds the rotor on, it had backed out once before(found it wedged between wires when I first got the car).
After driving about 10 miles the screw backed its way back out and set off an unpredictable behavior in the car, whenever it bounced up the car ran like crap, when it settled back down the car ran great.
Apparently after the car sat for a while the screw settled down and didnt start bouncing around until after the car hit a bump or went around a curve hard.
It was already dark that evening, and I needed to get home soon, therefore I never bothered to take the dizzy back off and inspect it or I would have found it. I had to borrow a car and drive home (30 miles away).
Anyway, the screw caused some damage to the old dizzy, so I probably did need the one I just bought afterall.
This one is under warranty, rotor screw and all.
Oh well, I now have a spare coil and ignitor.
Yes my engine is running fine now.
Modified by Hurricane at 12:00 PM 5/13/2005
Apparently the original "only-when-warmed-up" hesitation I had was from worn out plugs, rotor and cap. The plugs were Bosch Platinums and the platinum electrode had almost burned completely out of the insulator (can hear previous owner saying "those are $8 each Platinums, good for years, they CAN'T be causing the problem").
Last week when I replaced them, I reinstalled the screw which holds the rotor on, it had backed out once before(found it wedged between wires when I first got the car).
After driving about 10 miles the screw backed its way back out and set off an unpredictable behavior in the car, whenever it bounced up the car ran like crap, when it settled back down the car ran great.
Apparently after the car sat for a while the screw settled down and didnt start bouncing around until after the car hit a bump or went around a curve hard.
It was already dark that evening, and I needed to get home soon, therefore I never bothered to take the dizzy back off and inspect it or I would have found it. I had to borrow a car and drive home (30 miles away).
Anyway, the screw caused some damage to the old dizzy, so I probably did need the one I just bought afterall.
This one is under warranty, rotor screw and all.
Oh well, I now have a spare coil and ignitor.
Yes my engine is running fine now.
Modified by Hurricane at 12:00 PM 5/13/2005
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (civicminded
Bosch plugs are known to have shitty electrodes, look at the nissan vehicles for example.
Always use NGK and DENSO on japanese
Always use NGK and DENSO on japanese
#30
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (Hurricane)
heck ur spark plugs
u might be runnin too rich,
are they gapped???
u might be runnin too rich,
are they gapped???
#31
Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (galaxykid70
I've been following this post 'cause I have the same bogging problem. Go on with this train of thought.
I've also had reports that it could be something to do with some idle air control valve???
I've also had reports that it could be something to do with some idle air control valve???
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (galaxykid70
It was in fact worn out plugs, rotor and cap.
Also the rotor screw came loose and caused additional problems.
All is fixed now with a refurbed dizzy.
Also the rotor screw came loose and caused additional problems.
All is fixed now with a refurbed dizzy.
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (MYHNDA)
my car is bogging bad when i put on the gas too hard, d16z6, intake, header, cat back exhaust, new timing belt (6mo), spark plugs like 2 mo, water pump, new dizzy about a year ago, think it when bad? things to looks for? thanks
BUMP
BUMP
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Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed up? (SantaCruz92
Mods, please lock this thread, I have already listed the solution to my problem TWICE and people keep bumping with suggestions.
Everybody who tryed to help, thanks.
My problem is fixed, read back a few posts to see.
Everybody who tryed to help, thanks.
My problem is fixed, read back a few posts to see.
#37
Re: D16Z6 - can a bad distributor cause hesitation only after engine is well warmed u
It would be better to create your own thread rather than bump a thread where the problem was solved.
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