D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
#1
D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
I have a eg1 deal sol with a d15b non VTEC block, p2a-10 head, p07 ecu. (Is this a proper working setup?) And she smokes white but I'm not loosing any coolant. Also I have a cel for bad O2 heater It has the 4 wire O2 and when I unplug it while running there is no change what so ever.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
The P07 ECU is for a 92-95 VX. The P07-A00 ECU will be looking for a 5-wire O2 sensor, which would explain the code. There is also a P07-L00 ECU for California VXs that use a 4-wire O2 sensor.
You have a JDM non-VTEC D15... pretty sure you need a P06 ECU.
That wouldn't explain the smoke, though.
You have a JDM non-VTEC D15... pretty sure you need a P06 ECU.
That wouldn't explain the smoke, though.
Last edited by slogfilet; 07-07-2015 at 11:46 AM.
#5
Re: D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
The ecu is the p07-A01
How do you tell if it's leaking through the valve seals or rings. I do believe its oil after looking at the plugs. However the smoke looks white to me. Here's a pic of a plug Also thank you guys for the help. It's people like you that make the world go round.
How do you tell if it's leaking through the valve seals or rings. I do believe its oil after looking at the plugs. However the smoke looks white to me. Here's a pic of a plug Also thank you guys for the help. It's people like you that make the world go round.
Last edited by Delslowlife; 07-07-2015 at 01:06 PM. Reason: To thank you guys
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#8
#10
Re: D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
If you have a bore scope you can see the piston tops and it will tell you what d15b block it is. If it's PM3 pistons it's the non vtec 134mm rods block and if it's the p08 pistons it's the vtec 137mm rod block.
Also if you pull all four spark plugs and look into the cylinders with the piston down near BDC, if you see oil encircling the piston(s) in the piston to wall clearance area, it's typically bad ring(s) issue.
Even if all 4 cylinders are dry when you pull the plugs, what you do is unplug both plugs from the dizzy and I like to be extra cautious by pulling the plugs off of all 4 injectors then crank the motor for 20-30 seconds. Then check all 4 cylinders again with the pistons down at BDC. If all 4 cylinders are still dry after that, then you know it's valve seals that are toast.
Usually bad valve seals don't smoke at idle as much as acceleration after idling for a bit and/or after engine braking. Ever been behind a car at a red light and it's not smoking and as soon as they take off it smokes for a bit and then stops? That's the typical sign of worn valve seals.
Also if you pull all four spark plugs and look into the cylinders with the piston down near BDC, if you see oil encircling the piston(s) in the piston to wall clearance area, it's typically bad ring(s) issue.
Even if all 4 cylinders are dry when you pull the plugs, what you do is unplug both plugs from the dizzy and I like to be extra cautious by pulling the plugs off of all 4 injectors then crank the motor for 20-30 seconds. Then check all 4 cylinders again with the pistons down at BDC. If all 4 cylinders are still dry after that, then you know it's valve seals that are toast.
Usually bad valve seals don't smoke at idle as much as acceleration after idling for a bit and/or after engine braking. Ever been behind a car at a red light and it's not smoking and as soon as they take off it smokes for a bit and then stops? That's the typical sign of worn valve seals.
#12
#20
Re: D15b smoking More than I do. White smoke
Rings, more rings and rings.
Valve seals could be bad too but you really won't know that until the rings are fixed up. And if yer fixing that (bottom end rebuild) you should be rebuilding the top too which would mean all new seals including valve seals.
A full rebuild will usually run you more than a used motor swap. But, the rebuild if broken in right will outlast the used motor as well as not be the crap shoot a used motor is.
Valve seals could be bad too but you really won't know that until the rings are fixed up. And if yer fixing that (bottom end rebuild) you should be rebuilding the top too which would mean all new seals including valve seals.
A full rebuild will usually run you more than a used motor swap. But, the rebuild if broken in right will outlast the used motor as well as not be the crap shoot a used motor is.
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