Crank Pulley Bolt will NOT come off
#1
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Crank Pulley Bolt will NOT come off
how in the world do I get this thing off. the engine is sitting on my garage floor. and i used an impact gun on it. and it still wont budge? any ideas how to get it off. i HAVE to get it off. i lost the woodruf key down in there somewhere
#2
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt will NOT come off (spooncivic1)
i had the same problem a couple days ago, impact wont work unless you got 400+ lt/lbs
what i did was take the ratchet, stuck it in a HUGE pipe for sort of a crazy breaker bar, got somone to hold the flywheel with 2 screwdrivers, and went at it, took about 5 seconds to break it loose
what i did was take the ratchet, stuck it in a HUGE pipe for sort of a crazy breaker bar, got somone to hold the flywheel with 2 screwdrivers, and went at it, took about 5 seconds to break it loose
#4
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Re: Crank Pulley Bolt will NOT come off (Art In Motion)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Art In Motion »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had the same problem a couple days ago, impact wont work unless you got 400+ lt/lbs
what i did was take the ratchet, stuck it in a HUGE pipe for sort of a crazy breaker bar, got somone to hold the flywheel with 2 screwdrivers, and went at it, took about 5 seconds to break it loose</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i'll try that
any other suggestions
what i did was take the ratchet, stuck it in a HUGE pipe for sort of a crazy breaker bar, got somone to hold the flywheel with 2 screwdrivers, and went at it, took about 5 seconds to break it loose</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, i'll try that
any other suggestions
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Crank Pulley Bolt will NOT come off (spooncivic1)
Ha ha, I had to do this just today.
I've got the motor sitting on my garage floor, but I've got the tranny, clutch and flywheel off too, cause I'm replacing the rear main seal.
What I did was, thread two of the flywheel bolt partially into the end of the crank, then stick a big crow bar inbetween them and turn it so the other end of the crow bar is on the floor(so the crank cant turn clockwise(if your looking at it from the tranny side)), then put a 17mm on a breaker bar, stick a big pipe on the end, and then jump on that motherf*cker!! Works like a charm.
I've got the motor sitting on my garage floor, but I've got the tranny, clutch and flywheel off too, cause I'm replacing the rear main seal.
What I did was, thread two of the flywheel bolt partially into the end of the crank, then stick a big crow bar inbetween them and turn it so the other end of the crow bar is on the floor(so the crank cant turn clockwise(if your looking at it from the tranny side)), then put a 17mm on a breaker bar, stick a big pipe on the end, and then jump on that motherf*cker!! Works like a charm.
#6
Unceasing Measure
Here's an old hotrodder trick that I've used with much success in the past, albeit on American four and eight cylinder engines:
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .
#7
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what Archidictus said should work, I'v snapped many a socket on that bolt cuz I forgot to remove my ratchet.
use an impact socket if you are gonna try it. the starter has huge torque.
use an impact socket if you are gonna try it. the starter has huge torque.
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#8
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Re: (Turbo E 604)
I had to do this on two bad blocks, one a y8 and one a d15b vtec.
I had the oil pans off so I stuck a steel bar thru the girdle so the crank couldnt move and went to them with a big breaker bar on one and an impact gun on the other.
i love this picture
I had the oil pans off so I stuck a steel bar thru the girdle so the crank couldnt move and went to them with a big breaker bar on one and an impact gun on the other.
i love this picture
#10
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Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's an old hotrodder trick that I've used with much success in the past, albeit on American four and eight cylinder engines:
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .</TD></TR></TABLE>
one problem, the complete swap is sitting on my garage floor...
so i'll just take the starter out tomorrow, and put some screw drivers and get a breaker bar
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .</TD></TR></TABLE>
one problem, the complete swap is sitting on my garage floor...
so i'll just take the starter out tomorrow, and put some screw drivers and get a breaker bar
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Re: (spooncivic1)
i think the best way when you have the engine out is to just get 1/4 sheet metal (or something that won't bend), cut it in the shape of a rectangle (long enough to reach from the center of the flywheel to the case where the tranny mounts to it)and put 1 bolt on the flywheel and another bolt on the case, where the tranny mounts to it. Then do the same for the other side. This prevents it from slipping, keeps your teeth on the flywheel (for those of you who just jam a screw driver in where the start goes, and best of all you keep all the skin on your knuckles hehe, hope that helps but if the motor is in the car, screw driver all the way
#14
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Re: (doublejz)
use 19mm 6 pt impact socket with 3ft breaker bar with a cheater bar over it. I prefer a good 4 ft. put the car in gear and have someone step on the brakes and steadily apply all your weight
#15
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Re: (Snail Tuning)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snail Tuning »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just hotwire it, just hook it up to your battery and it would do the same thing.
don't have to remove the starter that way </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i tried this, and the starter done nothing
how do i hotwire the thing? i really need to get the pulley off. i managed to drop the woodruf key down there. other than that its ready to swap in my car
don't have to remove the starter that way </TD></TR></TABLE>
ok i tried this, and the starter done nothing
how do i hotwire the thing? i really need to get the pulley off. i managed to drop the woodruf key down there. other than that its ready to swap in my car
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Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't Honda engines cycle the wrong way to do this?
Attatch the biggest ratchet you have to the socket you're using and brace said ratchet's handle against some part of the car or floor that will not flex. Now, carefully bump the starter a couple times so the torque of the starter is the actuating force on the ratchet. It should bump a couple times and, if the ratchet is properly braced, break loose what you need .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't Honda engines cycle the wrong way to do this?
#19
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Re: (EX_AutoXer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Don't Honda engines cycle the wrong way to do this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, Honda turn counterclockwise so you will be making the bolt tighter instead of loosening it..
Don't Honda engines cycle the wrong way to do this?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, Honda turn counterclockwise so you will be making the bolt tighter instead of loosening it..
#22
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Re: (spooncivic1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncivic1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't have the money. im too poor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ia ctuallt boguth one for 29.95 or 39.95. From harbor Freight. It stopped the crank from moving. Even just having someone step on the brakes helps but that bitch is just on there super duper tight. The tool was useful for me, but the bolt was a bitch
Ia ctuallt boguth one for 29.95 or 39.95. From harbor Freight. It stopped the crank from moving. Even just having someone step on the brakes helps but that bitch is just on there super duper tight. The tool was useful for me, but the bolt was a bitch
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Re: (capbyrd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by capbyrd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get a crank pulley tool. they are a little expensive but a worthwhile investment</TD></TR></TABLE>
it definately helped using the crank pulley tool and a 5 foot pipe on my 2 foot breaker bar and my fat friend putting his weight on it.
it definately helped using the crank pulley tool and a 5 foot pipe on my 2 foot breaker bar and my fat friend putting his weight on it.