garner13

I have a 1993 del sol. It will crank but won’t start. I put a new fuel filter, distributor, fuel pump, spark plugs, wires and fuel pump main relay. The timing belt appears to be in tact. Since all these new parts are on, what else could it be that would cause the car not to start? I am running out of things to check.

mk378

You're not checking anything, you're just blindly changing parts. Sure, change the timing belt next. It would be easier to see if the cam moves when you turn the crank and that the marks line up, but whatever.

garner13

Point well taken. I was told that the timing belt was replaced recently and I took off the top cover and it was in tact.

The car has over 250,000 so I thought it would be good to put those new parts on the car. I will check the timing belt more closely..

Mexiton

Greetings,
I also have this issue, crank no start, and it bugging me. i am very new to the mechanic side of things and learining as i go, any and all advice is welcome, and i do see this becoming a hobby, i enjoy working on my car, when its not giving me a headache.

Back story.
1993 civic si hatchback
bought few years ago, sat in driveway for a while, recently charged the battery and fired right up. drove it for 2 weeks, then, randomly stalled whilst picking up a friend. sat for 5 min, started up , drove 20 feet and shut off agian. sat for 10 min, and got all the way home 7 miles.

its been sititng in drive way for 2 weeks now and cant figure it out, replaced multiple parts as follows

Fuel pump, whole assembly
Distrib cap
Rotor
Distrib coil
Main relay x3

i have tried this troubleshooting guide that was on this site, but as it says my main relay is a bit different. but the wire colors seem to match up as far as i can tell.
I got to the bottom where underlined with my make shift diagram of my main relay harness pictured here




1991 Honda Civic Hatchback L4-1.5L SOHC (16 valve)

Testing and Inspection

NOTE: If the car starts and continues to run, the PGM-FI main relay is OK.
NOTE: Pay close attention to the diodes!!! This just bit me. Power can flow only one way through a diode. The diodes are the triangle arrow looking symbols in the Main relay diagram. The 'arrow' is the direction of current flow from positive to negative. Guess I should of read the directions more closely.
MAIN RELAY TEST


1. Remove the main relay.
2. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #4 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 3.
b. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
3. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #5 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #2 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #1 terminal and the #3 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, go to step 4.
b.If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
4. Attach the positive battery terminal to the #3 terminal and the negative battery terminal to the #8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the #5 terminal and the #7 terminal of the main relay.
a. If there is continuity, the relay is OK.
b. If the fuel pump still does not work, go to harness test.
c. If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.


MAIN RELAY HARNESS TEST

1. Keep the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Disconnect the main relay electrical connector.
3. Check for continuity between the BLACK wire (pin 2) in the connector and body ground.

Fig. 33 Main Relay Harness Test (pins 1 and 2)


Fig. 34 Main Relay Harness Test (pins 2 and 5)


4. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the YELLOW/WHITE wire (pin 1) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage, check the wiring between the battery and the main relay as well as the ECU fuse (15A) in the main fuse box.
5. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).
6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. Battery voltage should be available.
b. If there is no voltage available, check #14 fuse and the wiring from the ignition switch to the fuse box, and the wiring from the fuse box to the main relay.
7. Attach the positive probe of the voltmeter to the BLUE/WHITE wire (pin 4) and the negative probe to the BLACK wire (pin 2).

Fig. 35 Main Relay Harness Test (pins 2 and 4)


Fig. 36 Main Relay Harness Jumper Test


8. Turn the ignition switch to the START position.
a. Approximately 10 volts should be available.
b. If there is no voltage check the #2 (10A) fuse and the wiring between the ignition switch and the fuse box, and from the fuse box to the main relay.
9. Connect a jumper wire between the BLACK/YELLOW wire (pin 5) and the YELLOW/BLACK wire (pin 7).
10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
a. The fuel pump should work.
b. If the fuel pump does not work, check the wiring between the main relay and the fuel pump, and the wiring from the fuel pump to the ground (BLACK wire).

This is for a 1991 Civic hatch, but all 88-91 civic are checked the same. I just double checked. 92+ are different have a different main relay. They look exactly the same, but the 88-91's have pin 6 missing (making 7 pins total) and 92+ have pin 4 missing (again 7 pins total). So hope this helps somebody. I know I couldn't find anything that helped me test my main relay last night, so that's why I did this.

i understand that the relays are different, and im thinking that i can test for continuity from the main relay harness to the fuel pump wire, im almost positive the wire shouldnt change color from the harness to the pump.
if there is continuity i dont know where to go next.
A friend of mine, had mentioned that i may not have spark and im watching youtube vidoes on that

any help any advice, would help, i am a novice when it comes to fixing cars, so please bear with me, i want to take it to a shop but i dont want to pay the money for them to say "oh your plug is disconnected. that will be 700$ thanks have a great day"

pls halp

-Mex

DumpdEJ6

Check for codes present.

You also need to check spark, fuel, timing, and compression.

Verify the engine is mechanically in time. There should be a small notch mark on the crank pulley, turn the engine over by hand until it lines up with the fin on the timing belt cover. Now check that the timing notches on the cams are pointing at each other.

Verify the spark at the plug is white/blue color, coming at regular intervals. If it is orange/red, you have an ignition issue. If it is sparking at irregular intervals, your issue is likely the distributor rotor screw has loosened.

If you have good spark, spray starting fluid into the throttle body while cranking the car with WOT. If it doesn't start, move on to a compression test.