Jo$e L@go

BOTH setups built b16 head off em1.skunk 2 stage 2 cams,cam gears,spring,retainers,fully built head either on top of a stock jdm b16 block 118k miles or b20 block with 15k miles.yes 15
long story but legit.

idk if this is an obvious like go b20 but my goal for my car is to be pushin over 200hp.and im most likely not going to touch the block so the way they sit right now is the way they will be sitting for a while
also i am either going to chip my stock ecu with an erics racing chip or use a HONDATA S100

em1effekt

id say go for the b20v....thats what im doin...

-__-

B20 VTEC! idk wut your compression ratio is gonna be.
with the JDM B16 depending on which Generation it is, you will make that 200hp fairly easy.

93egSLEEPER

unless that b20 has a built bottom end (arp rod bolts at least) and possibly some pistons i would say b16. it will crush the b20 once it gets the rpms singing.

00EckoSI

a fully built b20 boosted vtec will need rebuilt after 30xxx+ miles....the b20 wasnt designed for high rpms...i would def say go b16 for the money your gonna save buying the b20 your gonna need it to put backinto it to rebuild it again and again..the b16 is way more reliable and will hold up better to what ur trying to do..b16 all the way

HKSkiD714

I have a b16a right now damm I thinks that's the fastest motor I have its my first b16.
But am swaping a b20V soon they say its gonna be hellla fast idk yet al have to wait and see.
My friend has a b20V semie built with turbo.he's had it for 3 years never had problem with it. And its daliy driver with 7lb of boost with 260 whp.
With a hit of switch he can go 14lb of boost with 350whp(:
B20V here I come

boosting4life35

i had a b16a2 on 16psi bone stock made 320hp no problem reving to 8500 that was crazy

burnykawizzle

from research that ive done the b20v is very good low end power but the block isn't made for high rpm's but i know the b18b1 block will hold up wayyy better for the higher rpm's and will be better boosted due to b18b1 LS block holds boost better.. i wanted to go b20 before but after doing tons of research i'd rather stick to my LS and boost it since it will be more reliable then a b20 on boost because the b20 has thinner sleeves

roycivic92

sleeve the b20 and do what ever u want with it.

burnykawizzle

b20 isnt as reliable like the b18b or the b16

prime-R

Ima tell you out of experiance.I currently drive a 1998 b20 p8r at 8 psi making 257 which is the threshold for stock b20s.all motor b20s are great on boost they are fun till where im at anything after 250 you are pushing your luck on stock sleeves,I would go b20v since it does have better torque but a b16 has a better reliability.I've driven a 99 em1 and its fun but I don't like the fact that I have to make it scream to feel some power,on a b20 you will feel power with a tap of gas lol.with your setup I think you would see better numbers out of that b20v then the si

burnykawizzle

^^^^^ read that good because thats another person telling you not to push your luck with that b20v on boost

HKSkiD714

Hey was up guys I did swap last weekend am having an over heat problem ever since swap I think its my iac.
Anyways I had b16 now b20V its way faster I love it
Am gonna get some itr cams and valve springs and retainers soon would that help me redline saver?
b20V over b16(:
I just gotta take care of this a little bit more

b20hatchek

theirs a guy that has a b20v with a built b16 head and stock sleeves and he just turned 85,xxx miles on that motor alone, swap the pistons and rods and your good oh and the arp studs, b16's all motor can only get up to 200hp unless you just boost it, and you can still rev that b20v to 8500rpms all day long and another buddy sat in vtec every where he went and that motor lasted untill a kido bought it and over rev'd it (wait that wasnt 5th gear?)

Beckerton

I don't know a whole lot about the B20's but from what I can tell the rod/stroke ratio is quite low. This means if you throw revs at that setup, there is a good chance you will also throw a rod right through the block. The lower your rod/stroke ratio, the more force you are exerting on the cylinder walls. This can be remedied by using a longer rod length, although there is a limit to how long you can go.

This should be an enlightening read...I suggest you check it out and try to make sense of it before you go ahead with your CRVTEC build...

http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html