tony_2018

It looks like the shop doesn't have a way to detect leaks, that device I'm referring to is about 400-500 dollars. Another way is to inject dye and look for the leaks.

But I would agree with the shop somewhat, a clean evaporator w/ new expansion valve and a clean condensor would do the job. New dryer as well as o-rings will do the job. But a vac must be performed to see if its holding pressure, if not a leak test will have to be performed to identify where its leaking from. You'll know what needs to be replaced.

Former User

Thoroughly flush any A/C components not replaced.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I just had the system recharged professionally using a Snap-On Air Conditioner Unit. The car's idle with the A/C engaged is slightly better. I was also told my level of Freon was a little lower than normal.

I'm just going to run the car for a week or two and see how it handles the new recharge. The system now contains dye, so if there are any small leaks, it'll be easier to find.

Former User

Did you replace any A/C components prior to the professional recharge?

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

No. I explained to the mechanic and owner of the shop of my symptoms. He suggested to do a proper re-charge because I charged the system myself several months ago. He indicated that if I start to notice the system is acting poor again, his next course of action would be to check the system with the UV light for dye leakage. After that, he would continue to troubleshoot the system. I would imagine that means replacing components.

Former User

Did you tell the mechanic that the A/C system was empty of refrigerant; the receiver/dryer was not replaced; and the system was not evacuated prior to recharge?

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I did.

He understood that the system was empty and that I attempted to recharge it on my own. I was informed about the possibility of having air in the system as well as what the repercussions of that was. Of course he also explained the system could be under or overcharged. Which it turned out to be undercharge.

He wanted to start with a baseline by charging the system properly before going into any serious component replacement.

I explained to him how the car would idle rough (with A/C button on), pulley would squeal, and the coolness of the air would fluctuate depending on speeds, etc.

Former User

What implications/repercussions did he mention?

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

He basically told me that if there's air in the system, it won't function as well. He compared it to having air in your brake lines.

Former User

Did he mention the destructive effects of the moisture (water) present in air on the A/C system? Do you know the function of the A/C receiver/dryer and why it is so important?

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he really touched on that. It was approximately a 3 to 5 minute conversation.

Former User

The receiver/dryer filters particulate debris and also contains a desiccant that removes water that may enter the A/C system. Water reacts chemically with the refrigerant to create acid. Acid is insidious because it is corrosive and chemically reacts with metals inside the A/C system. While evacuation removes the air in the system, it does not remove the acid. Do you see where this is going and why the other mechanic likely suggested that you replace your A/C system? As I mentioned earlier, you need to do your homework.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I do see where this is going. It's just that the several places I went to inquire about my A/C, their first recommendation was to recharge it the proper way.

The unit does function, it's just lousy sometimes. Most noticeably on hot summer days. I'll keep my eye on it. Hopefully I can still discern if it's working the way it should with it starting to get into the colder more fall season temperatures. I might just say "The hell with it." and buy all new components now.

Former User

Based on information you posted in this thread, this^ is almost surely your future.

I assume that the mechanics also know this to be true. However, your conversations with them likely lead them to conclude that you are hoping for a quick inexpensive fix. They are perfectly fine following your lead as they still get paid. Good luck.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I did tell him that I was willing to buy a new system if I had to.

I'll touch base with him in a week and see how the car is.

Thanks for the support. You've been really active in most of my threads .

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

Am I missing anything else?

ToughOne or Factory Air Evaporator Core T54167: Advance Auto Parts

Driveworks Reman Sanden/Sankyo TRS090 Compressor w/ Clutch DW77560: Advance Auto Parts

ToughOne or Factory Air Aluminum Filter Drier with Pad Mount T33588: Advance Auto Parts

CARQUEST or Factory Air 2 Pole Radiator or Condenser Fan Motor 35407: Advance Auto Parts

ToughOne Expansion Valve T39000: Advance Auto Parts

Former User

Do some comparison shopping at Amazon and Rockauto.

The evaporator and all hoses and tubes are candidates for flushing rather than replacing.

These must be replaced, if the compressor is failing.

You would only need the condenser. Your fan can be re-used, if it works.

Here's useful link.

Auto Air Conditioning - Replacing your auto A/C compressor

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I went back to the shop that charged my A/C system. I talked to a friend of mine who was working there. He was not present when I had the work done to my car. He told me that the SnapOn A/C machine does a variety of tests, etc. when recharging the system. He mentioned that it will flush my system as one of the protocols it does.

I don't know how accurate this is or if the SnapOn A/C machine really has the capability. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

tony_2018

Because you told them you were willing to replace the system they just took you for your money, they're probably waiting for you to bring it back to them. So they charged you for adding refridgerant and are waiting for you to come back again.

Former User

An intact A/C system is a closed loop and cannot be properly flushed even with a machine. A proper flush is done manually and is expensive because it's labor intensive. Any A/C component not replaced should be flushed. Otherwise, the problem may repeat.

tony_2018

Not to mention, each component has to be flushed separately, if they just hooked up a flushing system to the main connects than contaminants were pushed to other parts of the system. I usually take mine apart and flush it separately.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I really think the friend I talked to just has no idea how the machine works. He doesn't appear to be that competent when it comes to electrical components. He wasn't trying to sell me any bs, but the way he was explaining it made it look like he was struggling to give me an explanation on how it works.

In any event, I'll do some comparing of the A/c components and see what I find out. This is all making sense to me now.

Do any of you know of any big name places that will do an A/C flush of the components? Maybe like an STS or something? I just feel like most places aren't going to be willing to do this type of work. Also, wouldn't it be cheaper if I just get all new parts anyway? More than likely I could have someone I know install it at a better rate than a shop. A shop quoted me about $300 (max) labor for a full replace of the A/C system.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

I've asked around and I can't find a shop that is willing to flush individual components of the A/C...

To save the hassle, I may end up just re-doing the entire system.

GearHeadDriver

iTrader: (1)

What degrees in F should the AC be outputting inside the car? I'm going to have someone use one of those temperature laser readers. No sense in replacing parts if the system is operating normally.

tony_2018

there is a chart to go off of in the helms manual. I'm always good when its 65 degrees inside, but that doesn't mean your system is running optimal.