delsolo95

hey guys. i have a 1995 del sol gsr swap with all ac components replaced brand new except hard lines. I replaced evaporator core, expansion valve, condenser, receiver/drier, and most expensive denso ac compressor . everything was replaced in half a day last week.

the compressor came with 4 oz of oil in it factory, i replaced o rings on all connecting ports. then i took it to shop this morning to evacuate the system and fill up with R134a.

well got it back today and they said there are no leaks but its not blowing cold as it should. they told me it was blowing at 64 degrees when it should be around 50 degrees. the outside temp at the time was 68 degrees.

the ac fan comes on when the ac compressor clutch grabs, all lines that should be cold is ice cold, all lines other lines that should be warm, are.

they want another $95 to diagnose the problem and said problem may be under the dash (blend door).

what should i do have them diagnose it? i spent all this money on parts around $650 and evacuate/fill $110 already, where should i look next?

Former User

Ask them what weight of R134a they added.

Did you ask them whether there is a leak in the system?

Did you ask them what the high and low side pressures were?

Is the heater valve stuck open?

Do you have or can you get a manifold gauge set to diagnose yourself?

OptimisticWay

Here is how I tested my heater blending valve

OptimisticWay

We need to know the specifications for your A/C system. My 1995 EJ1 needs a minimum of 17.6 and a max of 19.4 fluid ounces of R134A to run efficiently.

If you are running the stock system, which you should if it came with R134A from the factory, then a sticker will be in the engine compartmentif it was not removed. Mine is located on the passenger wheel well.

OptimisticWay

If cold air output is inadequate:

1 Make sure the outside vents are closed

2 inspect the condenser coils and fins to make sure they're clear

3 Check the compressor clutch for slippage

4 Make sure there's sufficient refrigerant in the system

5 Check the blower motor for proper orientation

6 Inspect the blower discharge passage for obstructions (if your car does not have an incab filter, start here)

7 Check the system air intake filter for clogging

8 Inspect the evaporator. Make sure it's not clogged. Flush it if necessary

Note: The remaining general checks for this condition require that the manifold test gauges be hooked up.

9 If the high side gauge indicates normal pressure and the low side gauge indicates high pressure, the evaporator pressure regulator, hot gas bypass valve or suction throttling valve is defective or improperly adjusted

10 if the discharge air temperature is higher that it should be but is accompanied by normal gauge pressures, or slightly increased high side pressure and low suction pressure, the screen in the expan sion valve is clogged

This has been an excerpt from Haynes Techbook- Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning
PART # 10425 ISBN: 1563923815

ANYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT A/C IS HERE IN THIS MANUAL.
You can pick it up at a parts store for $26 or save $10 and buy it on Amazon.com for $16 and free shipping with no tax.

Former User

^You're giving the OP generic refrigerant pressures. To properly make these pressure measurements and to interpret them, follow the Honda service manual instructions.

OptimisticWay

Where did I do this at?

Former User

The OP should refer to the Honda service manual for the proper procedures of measuring the low and high side pressures and for interpreting them. Your sources are useful, but generic. The Honda service manual is specific to the vehicle.

OptimisticWay

Wouldn't this same information be located on the passenge wheel well like my EJ1 is? Is this not the same information? Other sources besides a Honda manual can calculate pressures based upon volume which is a certain fluid ounce to a certain fluid ounce. Math is math. The instructors may change but the numbers remain the same.

Former User

The label under the hood tells you the weight of refrigerant to add to the evacuated system. It does not describe the procedure for measuring the low and high side pressures of a charged system or the troubleshooting that can be done with the numbers. That information is found only in the Honda service manual.

Describe the math or post the mathematical equation that tells you what the high and low side pressures should be for the OP's Civic.

OptimisticWay

I may be wrong on this. I believe once you have your min and max levels of refrigerant, you can consult the Haynes manual for the numbers.

If he provides us with his numbers I can give what I believe to be the answer and then we can compare it to the Honda Service manual.

Preaching to the choir that Honda is the best. I have 4 1/2 cars in a 20 foot radius of myself right now. All I am saying is that reading gauges after refrigerant levels are known Honda does not have a Monopoly on. I am not trying to get on your bad side here.

Former User

Post the pressure testing procedure you find in your Haynes manual and how you would use the numbers to troubleshoot. I'm pretty sure the differences will become crystal clear if you take this next step.

tony_2018

That still doesn't answer the OP's question. The car already has refridgerant, measuring the weight is out of the question

delsolo95

not sure as what you mean by weight?

they told me no leakage.

i didnt ask high and low pressure.

heater valve not sure. i know my lever goes all the way left (cold) as it should but moving it to the right (hot) is 3/4 there and wont go max heat on the lever. Im assuming the cable and where it latches under the dash on passenger side is jam. blower fans blows at every speed. all doors from feet, defrost vent, etc works

i prefer not to buy one a manifold guage set yet. I dont have the money

delsolo95

i will buy a manifold guage set if it came to it. but am thinking like harbor freight or should i buy elsewhere?

delsolo95

i also noticed that sometimes when im driving down the highway with the windows down i feel a slight breeze of warm air at my feet even when the cold lever is at max and the circulation for outside is closed. although it could be that my car use to be automatic and i just taped the excess wholes/openings from the shifter selection (now shift rods). i currently have the shifter console off. but that doesnt really matter that the ac doesnt blow cold out the vents

Former User

Check whether the heater valve on the heater hose near the firewall is partially open when the dash heater lever is off.

The harbor Freight manifold gauge set should be fine.

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

I had this similar issue with my 95 Prelude and 96 Civic, yes i know FML!! I had no leaks, everything was working fine and it didnt blow cold as it should. I noticed that the ac lever would only slide all the way one way (cold) and not hot. Just like you when driving I could feel some warm air when driving around. I went to the passanger side under the dash and yanked the cable all the way towards me. I finally heard the little trap door close all the way. Problem solved, wire was getting stuck somewhere and not closing the heat all the way. Hence why my AC would never cool completly. Try that, just takes a few seconds.. Oh and I didnt replace the wire either. I just put some some paper so it wouldnt retract back to where it was.

delsolo95

Thank you silverek96 and ronj@ht. I will mess with the valves when i get off work before I buy a manifold Guage set.

delsolo95

ok i fixed the cold/heat cable that connects under the passenger dash. still not cold, i ran it for approx 5 min (was on lunch break so i had to do it quick). I also took a look at the fire wall heater hose cable and that is working properly. Anything else i should check?

OptimisticWay

You can rent a gauge for free from autozone. Just pay the deposit.

OptimisticWay

I wonder if the person who worked on your car used a honda service manual?

If you are not properly charged is doesn't matter that there is refrigerant in the system. You must be within specs or the system will not cool the vehicle efficiently. What is your altitude where the car is being serviced? Are you in Denver, Miami or in between? You need to know what level above sea you are and the ambient temperature in order to calculate your high and low side. You also need to know your min and max refrigerant level. I see you are in Long Beach, so you are near sea level.

Take the cable off of the heater blending valve in the engine compartment near the firewall. Manually move it all the way back. Go buy an analog temp gauge from Harbor Freight for $3 and stick it in the middle vent with the car engine cold. Let the gauge level out to a consistent temperature. Now start the car and perform the test like I showed in my video. If the temperature rises by more than 2 degrees, your heater blending valve has internal leakage and should be replace. It is $12 at Advance Auto Parts.

Be sure to perform this test with the sun setting or in the shade.

Former User

That's a good option, if available.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Related question: What temp should I expect my vents to be with the CC set to cold, full blast blower, and WITHOUT A/C on? Should this be at or near ambient outside temp? For example's sake, let's say it's 15C/60F outside.

I am trying to diagnose a possibly similar problem to OP's, and even with my lever set to cold on my 93 Civic, I find warmed air blowing at me. Wondering what "normal" is.

Former User

It's normal. I assume heat from the engine bay and/or blower motor heats the air.