When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I might get a lip down the road, but keeping it at stock height..
Originally Posted by slomofo
OP, you took off a lot more stuff than you needed to when removing that engine.
Yeah I refreshing everything, this going to be my Backup daily car. So I am pretty much replacing everything needed, Timing belt kit, mounts, Clutch/fly wheel..
I had to remove the Complete wheel hub since I could not remove the axle nuts.
Originally Posted by 86azms3
OP is probably not worried about that, as he has a MS6 which is a lot better then a Civic dx in terms of performance.
Forgot to share this pic with you guys, last night I removed the spark plugs of the new"used" engine and this is how they look.
They are in order for each cyl.. So far it seems that the valve cover sparkplug wells seals are bad which I am planning to replace. Other than that I think they look ok. What do you guys think?
They don't look too shabby, but if it was me, I would replace. I want to see if my old Denso iridiums that came out of the mazda fit the civic since they are laying around.
They don't look too shabby, but if it was me, I would replace. I want to see if my old Denso iridiums that came out of the mazda fit the civic since they are laying around.
I have a fresh set of NGKs that I am putting, in I just wanted a second opinion as I am trying to diagnose the health of the engine before I put it in.. I tried doing the compression thes but I dont think it works with out the headers/exhaust attached to it.
Great work so far. What engine did you pick up, another y7?
Definitely replace that harmonic balancer with a new unit.
I recommend keeping the car at stock ride height as the factory honda suspension is very comfortable. It was not designed to be a performance cornering machine but honda did spend alot of time fine tuning ride quality And cabin noise
I think you will be very pleased once you start daily driving it. For me the classic styling of the civic gives me enough flair to let me drive confidently and not be ashamed I'm driving a $1500 car
Great work so far. What engine did you pick up, another y7?
Definitely replace that harmonic balancer with a new unit.
I recommend keeping the car at stock ride height as the factory honda suspension is very comfortable. It was not designed to be a performance cornering machine but honda did spend alot of time fine tuning ride quality And cabin noise
I think you will be very pleased once you start daily driving it. For me the classic styling of the civic gives me enough flair to let me drive confidently and not be ashamed I'm driving a $1500 car
That is my oem is best speach.
Yeah I end up getting anther Y7, I almost went with a Y8 but junk yards are asking too much just because it have a Vtec lol.. I probably could have found a good one, but I the purpose of this car is for reliable backup car with good mpgs.. I am trying to replace everything maintenance wise with out expending unnecessary $$ as this my second car.
Originally Posted by tony_2018
air impact gun....best investment. I had an electric impact before but nothing beats an air impact.
Yeah I know, I wish I could invest in air tools, but I currently dont have the space to store a good compressor.
I have a fresh set of NGKs that I am putting, in I just wanted a second opinion as I am trying to diagnose the health of the engine before I put it in.. I tried doing the compression thes but I dont think it works with out the headers/exhaust attached to it.
You don't need the intake or exhaust manifold to do compression
You don't need the intake or exhaust manifold to do compression
Originally Posted by averyvm
Correct. The compression tester doesn't care what's upstream of the intake valves or what's downstream of the exhaust valves.
Umm really.. I guess was not able to spin the engine fast/hard enough to make it build compression or the compression tester was bad. I could feel air getting pushed out the exhaust manifold side but the gauge on the tester never moved.
I am going to borrow a tester this weekend again,and try turning the engine with my impact gun while I still have it out. It wont be going in until sometime next week or next weekend. Since I still haven't been able to order the crank pulley and other miscellaneous parts I forgot to add to my initial part order like intake/exhaust gasket, accessory belts, and a new exhaust manifold or header..
Umm really.. I guess was not able to spin the engine fast/hard enough to make it build compression or the compression tester was bad. I could feel air getting pushed out the exhaust manifold side but the gauge on the tester never moved.
I am going to borrow a tester this weekend again,and try turning the engine with my impact gun while I still have it out. It wont be going in until sometime next week or next weekend. Since I still haven't been able to order the crank pulley and other miscellaneous parts I forgot to add to my initial part order like intake/exhaust gasket, accessory belts, and a new exhaust manifold or header..
I've never done a compression test by hand so I'm not sure if it's a good enough measure. But the compression tester should have a one way valve to only let in air so it can build pressure on each compression stroke. You need multiple compression strokes to see what pressure max's out at
I've never done a compression test by hand so I'm not sure if it's a good enough measure. But the compression tester should have a one way valve to only let in air so it can build pressure on each compression stroke. You need multiple compression strokes to see what pressure max's out at
Yeah its kind of hard to do by hand, but its possible.. I tried to do it from the flywheel side which I dont think it works.. Most how to's do it from the crank pulley side.
Finally order some of the last parts I need to put the engine back in the car, which were the Crank pulley, ordered an ebay header, and accessory belts.
This a display picture the seller have in the ebay listing.
Yesterday painted the Intake manifold and throttle body with black wrinkle paint. Today after I get out of work, I will finish cleaning and sanding the valve cover in order to do the same.
The parts I was waiting for arrived, so its time to get to work lol..
New crank Pulley, accesory belts, ball joints and new wipers.
New eBay header
Removed the Intake manifold that came with the new engine. but now I cant remove the gasket, as it seems to be stuck to the head. Do you guys have any tip on how to remove it?
That is one crusty engine. I would stuff plastic bags into the holes in the head and hit the Whole engine with some simple green degreaser and a brake caliper brush then power wash it at a car wash and repaint it
That is one crusty engine. I would stuff plastic bags into the holes in the head and hit the Whole engine with some simple green degreaser and a brake caliper brush then power wash it at a car wash and repaint it
Yeah I really want to at least clean it before I install the engine.. Is simple green the best degreaser ? I Already tried at least 2 other degreasers and both didnt get the grease loose enough to get it off with the wire brush I was using.
Yeah I really want to at least clean it before I install the engine.. Is simple green the best degreaser ? I Already tried at least 2 other degreasers and both didnt get the grease loose enough to get it off with the wire brush I was using.
Best I'm not sure. I want to say I used purple power, a hard wire brake caliper brush and a pressure washer at the car wash.
I just had to agitate the surface after applying the degreaser then the power washer did the rest. However my engine looked like its never had an oil leak so it was considerly cleaner
Update, I havent made a lot of progress like I wanted to this weekend. Spent Saturday cleaning the engine and removing the old intake manifold gasket. Installed the new flywheel, and clutch kit. At the end had a a little set back as the bag that I had the the rear motor mount bracket and the passenger side motor mount some of the bolts and nuts got misplaced. And right as I was putting the engine under the car it started raining smh..
This is how dirty the engine was
This how it looks now
New AMS flywheel
New AMS flywheel and Exedy Pro clutch kit.
The transmission finally meets the new engine lol
Almost mounted, but its still supported by the dolly until i find the pass through transmission motor mount bolt/nut Smh.
Update:
This morning I was able to get the engine attached to both the driver side and side passenger motor mount attached to the transmission, but ran it to problems with the rear motor. The big pass through bolt that goes through the top of transmission some was not able to make through the bolt.
This is how far in the bolt was going..
This is the bolt I am putting in into the rear motor mount bracket in the transmission side. Its a 19 like the the other 2 small short ones that seem to be the same diameter. Is that the right one?
This are things that I should have been able to get done with in minutes, but I have been loosing a lot of time with this set backs.. And I am not even in the fun part.. Which is going to be the wiring, and the distributor timing...
Alright so after reviewing the the Service Manual, it seems that I am using the wrong bolts for the rear bracket. The ones I am putting in are all 19mm except for the one for the motor mount that is a 17mm. In addition it calls to replace the bolts too.. Is it really that critical to replace them? If so is Honda the only place to get them or they cam be found at any local auto parts?
04-29-2015, 05:26 PM
Needs a drop and a lip
Re: 99 DX - DD Rebuild Project
