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Hey guys I am back after a I sold my 96 Civic a few years ago when I got my Mazdaspeed 6. I was looking for a cheap beater to have as back up car for when the Speed6 needs mayor maintenance or stuff breaks.. and just got a 99 Dx for $250 with a dead engine from a friend mine.
The car is 99 Civic DX 1.6(Non Vtec) 5spd. The car cosmetically looks good in and out execept for a couple of small dents and scratches. The engine have a hole in the block so my plans are to get a junk yard used engine, and while I am at it replace any part that its on its way out. I know it would have been perfect to do an engine swap, but my budget doesn't allow.
This by far will be the biggest mechanical repair/work I will perform on a car, but since I did the timing belt, and water pump on my 96 Civic months before I sold it I am familiar with the car.
Here are pics, of the the car and current progress of what I have done so far. I decided to remove all the components, so I can learn how to do it and at the same time asses what have to get replaced. So far I just need to remove the axles, shifting rod from the transmission before I drop the engine. I dont have an engine hoist, so I can not borrow one, I will be using a jacks and movers dolly I have at home to move appliances lol..
If you have any suggestions or recommendations please feel free to make a comment.
You should have sold your Mazda 6 and bought a Mazda 2.3L manual transmission, 3's have been the best car in it's class for the past 10 years. Mazda is what Honda used to be... a fun car to drive that is built solid but, with a better suspension and interior.
You should have sold your Mazda 6 and bought a Mazda 2.3L manual transmission, 3's have been the best car in it's class for the past 10 years. Mazda is what Honda used to be... a fun car to drive that is built solid but, with a better suspension and interior.
Make sure you do research on tings such as torque specs and sequences when replacing/rebuilding your engine.
If you don't you could do more harm than good in the long run.
If you are mechanically inclined, most projects are fairly simple as long as you have the right tools and have done adequate research.
Also, a Hanes manual will do wonders for you.
Great! thanks for the suggestions, now that you mention that I need to get a torque wrench. I have the service manual for the EK 96-00 so I am going to look to see if it have the torque specs/sequences.
Yeah I am mechanically inclined, having owned a 96 Civic in which I did a lot of maintenance work in the time I had it I am fairly familiar with this car.
[QUOTE=f15Civic;50281247]I have the Mazdaspeed6 2.3L 6spd AWD Turbo
[QUOTE]
Never could figure out why those didn't sell better ..AWD and turbo. Those cars can be had for a great price considering what they are.
I prefer the M3S hatchback but, dig your ride too.
[QUOTE=Jimi Hondrix;50281834][QUOTE=f15Civic;50281247]I have the Mazdaspeed6 2.3L 6spd AWD Turbo
Never could figure out why those didn't sell better ..AWD and turbo. Those cars can be had for a great price considering what they are.
I prefer the M3S hatchback but, dig your ride too.
Yeah man they are great cars, as long as you take car of them. I think lack of marketing is to blame, they didnt put an effort to let ppl know the difference between the regular 6 and Speed6
Get it resurfaced at the very least. If it's too far gone to have resurfaced, then replace it.
Thanks, for the suggestion I will see how much it cost around here to get it resurfaced to see if its worth it, because new ones cost around 40-45 in Rockauto
Hey guys, I am about to get the engine this weekend, in the mean time I have been revising the list of all the parts I am getting to rebuild the car. I attached a PDF document of the my rockauto cart.. Let me know what do you guys think or any recommendations.
Nice, how was the motor replacement? Did you replaced just the engine or did you also replaced other things to give the car a fresh start?
Thats nice, but why not for long ??
The motor I picked up only had 40k on it...so there wasn't much to do. Not a seal was looking bad...compression @175psi across the board. The motor was pristine. Only thing I did was resurface flywheel, and new clutch and pressure plate.
I've had the ms3 for 4 years now...went big turbo, made good power, now I have a family and just could use the money to pay off some medical bills and start saving more. So I've parted it out, and now almost ready to sell it.
The motor I picked up only had 40k on it...so there wasn't much to do. Not a seal was looking bad...compression @175psi across the board. The motor was pristine. Only thing I did was resurface flywheel, and new clutch and pressure plate.
Thats nice man you pretty much have a brand new car with that 40k motor..
Originally Posted by 86azms3
I've had the ms3 for 4 years now...went big turbo, made good power, now I have a family and just could use the money to pay off some medical bills and start saving more. So I've parted it out, and now almost ready to sell it.
I feel you man, life priorities/Family needs come first..
Alright so I got the engine out, updated the Pics at the top of the thread. It took me longer than it should have since my impact gun could not remove the axles nuts and later I broke my breaker bar trying to remove. I ended up removing the hubs in order to get the axles to come down with the engine and later once the engine was on the ground detached the axles from the transmission.
Hey guys I got another engine on Saturday but it did not come with the Crankshaft Pulley, I am trying to remove the one from the old engine but it have been really hard. Initially the crank was not moving but after multiples attemps with my electric impact gun which later died and a breaker bar but now the engine pistons started moving smh making it more difficult. In the process I managed to knick the pulley is it still good or is it completely bad
There is a special tool that you can rent at most auto parts stores to help you with the removal of the crank pulley.
A breaker bar and a long cheater pipe are of big help.
I wouldn't reuse that chipped pulley, but I'm super **** about things like that.
There is a special tool that you can rent at most auto parts stores to help you with the removal of the crank pulley.
A breaker bar and a long cheater pipe are of big help.
I wouldn't reuse that chipped pulley, but I'm super **** about things like that.
Yeah I know what tool you are talking about, I used one in my old Civic. I went to Pepboys to borrow one. I will try to JB weld the pice that proke off to see how it does if it doesnt work then I will look into getting a new one.
Yeah I know what tool you are talking about, I used one in my old Civic. I went to Pepboys to borrow one. I will try to JB weld the pice that proke off to see how it does if it doesnt work then I will look into getting a new one.
Not advisable. The pulley is actually called a harmonic balancer. Also your's has the rubber damper material sandwiched in the construction of it.
The balancer is balanced out for the rotational movement it is subjected to and now that you have snapped a piece off of it, even JB welding it back on will throw that balance off and cause you great misery down the road.
Unfortunately you will need a new pulley and you cannot get away with those "lightened" pulleys as they are not dampened. There is a super damper you can buy that is lighter than the Z6 pulley, not sure about the Y7 pulley but it's probably more expensive than getting another Y7 pulley for your car.
It's no different than changing your piston weight in the engine block and not getting the motor balanced. The weight change will throw balance out of whack and the crank will end up paying the price for it.
Not advisable. The pulley is actually called a harmonic balancer. Also your's has the rubber damper material sandwiched in the construction of it.
The balancer is balanced out for the rotational movement it is subjected to and now that you have snapped a piece off of it, even JB welding it back on will throw that balance off and cause you great misery down the road.
Unfortunately you will need a new pulley and you cannot get away with those "lightened" pulleys as they are not dampened. There is a super damper you can buy that is lighter than the Z6 pulley, not sure about the Y7 pulley but it's probably more expensive than getting another Y7 pulley for your car.
It's no different than changing your piston weight in the engine block and not getting the motor balanced. The weight change will throw balance out of whack and the crank will end up paying the price for it.
If thats the case, I will get a new one then.. I thought such a small piece was not going to make a difference.
If thats the case, I will get a new one then.. I thought such a small piece was not going to make a difference.
Think about a variation in weight spinning at 5000 rpm or better. Think of the additional forces if something is out of balance. Even a few ounces can make a huge deal when you start talking thousands of revolutions per minute.
The JB weld might get you by for a little bit but if that piece doesn't hold and goes flying off as it's spins 3000+ rpm most of the time, you'd really see some problems heading your way.
If you could get it welded would be the only assured way but then it still may need rebalancing for the high rpm it does.
Think about a variation in weight spinning at 5000 rpm or better. Think of the additional forces if something is out of balance. Even a few ounces can make a huge deal when you start talking thousands of revolutions per minute.
The JB weld might get you by for a little bit but if that piece doesn't hold and goes flying off as it's spins 3000+ rpm most of the time, you'd really see some problems heading your way.
If you could get it welded would be the only assured way but then it still may need rebalancing for the high rpm it does.
Welding might not be worth it, depending on the cost I will see if my local junk yards have one in good condition. Otherwise I will order one from rockauto
03-26-2015, 02:12 PM
99 DX - DD Rebuild Project
Needs a drop and a lip