Eklove2496

I have a 97 civic... Two days ago I went to go turn on my car mind you I left the car in my driveway because I didn't have money for gas for two months. I had it running for a good 30 minutes and the rpms starting to slowly go down, it usually sits at 1500 and the temp started to shoot up, also the oil light began to flicker. I turned off the car to check my oil, oil looks fine, then I went to go check my antifreeze there was nothing left. So today I flushed out the antifreeze that was left and replace it with new antifreeze. I run the car for about 15 minutes and take it around the corner once I get back into the driveway the rpms again slowly went down the temp rises almost halfway and the oil and battery light began to fickler. The battery is brand spanking new and I did an oil change two months ago. I need suggestions before I waste more money please help.

B_Swapped93

The battery light flickering when running is an indicator of alternator not doing it's job. The thing that worries me is that you ran the car for 30 mins with potentially NO COOLANT. was there really NONE or just a bit low and not visible at the top of the rad ? big diff. 2nd did you notice the temp gauge at H when the oil light started flickering ?.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Like B Swapped already said, the battery light means your alternator isn't doing it's job. The oil light means you have zero oil pressure. Rising temperatures means that you either have a coolant leak, or you didn't properly fill your coolant, or your thermostat is failing.

When you say the oil is "fine", what exactly are you calling fine? Just being between the low and high marks don't automatically mean it's good - you also need to test your oil pressure. Slap a pressure gauge on the back of your block where the oil pressure sensor is, and tell us what pressure you get with the car idling.

As for the battery light, you need a voltmeter. With the car OFF, you should see roughly 12V across the terminals. With the car running, you should see ~14.5V across the terminals. If you see less than that, double check your wiring and grounds, clean off or replace anything corroded, damaged, or cracked (a wire brush will become your new best friend). After you've done that, re-test across the terminals with the car running. Still not ~14.5V? Replace the alternator.

As for your magically vanishing coolant, burp the system the proper way - put the front end of the car on jack stands, remove the radiator cap, and start the car. Let it warm up and do two full radiator fan cycles. Top off coolant in the radiator, and repeat. Keep your face and other body parts clear of the radiator! That **** is hot. If your car starts blowing white smoke, you have a serious engine problem. If your car refuses to stabilize temperatures (the needle should settle horizontally, directly under the little wavy water symbol) you have a shot thermostat. Let the car sit for an hour or two to cool down, then replace the thermostat.

Eklove2496

It was a lower then minimum in the reservoir and not visible in the rad it looked bone dry. I saw the oil light flicker first then the temp gauge went up to about half way in about half a second so I went to park up and shut the car off.

Eklove2496

Thanks ima get these suggetions done then ill repost with whatever information I find out thank you guys.