95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
05-22-2015, 11:48 PM
#51
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
If you can post a picture of the board with this "brown" stuff.
It's possible you did excess solder and the "brown" stuff is the flux that helps the solder stick or preps the surfaces for the solder.
The unfortunate part is the low wattage soldering iron may have just caused you cold solder joints on some key spots of the main relay. The main relay has some really thick metal pins that get soldered and a 25w is really meant for 1/4 watt resistor leg width wire or light weight jumper wire etc.
A quality butane soldering iron can be expensive but will provide you good service without the need of an electrical socket. Buying cheap ones is a shot in the dark but usually sides on the failed pile.
I got lucky and got this one on sale at Canadian tire for 9.99 and it works awesome:
MagTorch | Mt 780
Now it's normally priced $39.99
Portasol and Weller are good brands but the good ones (100 watt or better) typically run closer to 70 dollars or more.
Such as this one:
Portasol 010589330 Super Pro 125-Watt Heat Tool Kit with 7 Tips - Soldering Irons - Amazon.com
Anyways, a picture of the main relay board you soldered would also be helpful. If you could provide that AFTER you do your compression tests would probably be the most beneficial.
And just an FYI, the i-vtec came after 2000 I'm pretty sure. It appears to have been introduced in Japan Oct of 2000. So Japanese market would see the motor in 2001 outside of prototype/unveiling. USA wouldn't see this motor upgrade until 2002 with the CRV.
It's possible you did excess solder and the "brown" stuff is the flux that helps the solder stick or preps the surfaces for the solder.
The unfortunate part is the low wattage soldering iron may have just caused you cold solder joints on some key spots of the main relay. The main relay has some really thick metal pins that get soldered and a 25w is really meant for 1/4 watt resistor leg width wire or light weight jumper wire etc.
A quality butane soldering iron can be expensive but will provide you good service without the need of an electrical socket. Buying cheap ones is a shot in the dark but usually sides on the failed pile.
I got lucky and got this one on sale at Canadian tire for 9.99 and it works awesome:
MagTorch | Mt 780
Now it's normally priced $39.99
Portasol and Weller are good brands but the good ones (100 watt or better) typically run closer to 70 dollars or more.
Such as this one:
Portasol 010589330 Super Pro 125-Watt Heat Tool Kit with 7 Tips - Soldering Irons - Amazon.com
Anyways, a picture of the main relay board you soldered would also be helpful. If you could provide that AFTER you do your compression tests would probably be the most beneficial.
And just an FYI, the i-vtec came after 2000 I'm pretty sure. It appears to have been introduced in Japan Oct of 2000. So Japanese market would see the motor in 2001 outside of prototype/unveiling. USA wouldn't see this motor upgrade until 2002 with the CRV.
As to the soldering iron. Yes, I bought a Weller. I literally walked down to the corner hardware store (Resnick's, I am in zip 07002 and its on Broadway and 46th St.. Im on Avenue C and 47th so.) NOTE: This is my first time soldering. After watching a brief video while melting on solder, I see that you want to "tin" your tip, and let it "flux" down into the board.. avoiding "Cold welds." So, since after I did it and saw pretty much all ugly and big cold welds.. I let it heat up nice and super hot, and tried to get them all down. You are correct that the brown stuff began to appear after I did this. (Please keep in mind that I am a weird duck, in that I have never, ever done this before. Nope, not even in Boy Scouts.) So.. I then took the advice I read on message boards (I like the article about a Boston Acoustics speaker device) and scraped off the brown with my equivalent of an X-Acto knife. Super gently, please don't panic.. and I re-hit each solder joint about 2 or 3 times, to get it to look as perfect as possible. I also have two videos of a link about how I made the connection to "Wait! It's the main relay, I'm pulling my hair out over no pressure" and the two videos I received guidance from. (Worth noting that my car even replicates the problem with the yellow and black fuel power wire.)
So, to check my comprehension: I need a more powerful soldering iron? CAN I get justice with the iron I have?
.. and, I did not make a video, but. When i plugged my newly soldered main relay in, the result was: Car started, ran for about 30 seconds, and died. Each time after, it started, then immediately died. It then would crank and not start. So...
Link 1: That awful yellow glue on circuit boards... | Electronics Forums
- Relevant excerpt: Why are manufacturers still using that crappy yellow glue on circuit
boards? You often see it securing large components such as
electrolytics, board mounted transformers, and coils. When the glue
turns from yellow to brown it becomes conductive. I don't know if heat
or current or the combination of both cause it to change, but I've had
computer monitors and VCR's malfunction because of it.
My latest experience is with a set of computer speakers--Boston
Acoustics BA735. When I got them the volume was very low and there was a
fairly loud 60hz hum coming from the subwoofer. The amplifier pc board
inside the subwoofer has all the jacks mounted on one edge--power, din
socket for the satellites, digital in, analog in, and a bass level pot.
All these jacks had a liberal amount of this yellow glue poured between
and behind them. Unfortunately this stuff was covering many surface
mounted devices as well as a couple of electrolytics. Parts of it had
turned dark brown and brittle. I scraped a lot of it using a serrated
plastic knife (McDonald's) and carefully pryed away smaller bits using a
dental pick. I had to desolder the din socket, digital in jack and caps
to get some of it. After putting it all back together, the speakers
sound perfect!
I guess the only reason the manufacturers still use this glue is because
it's dirt cheap. They don't seem to care that it will cause the device
to malfunction 5 years down the road. Silicon RTV would work so much better.
And.. Those videos:
1.
2. (*This one is actually really in-depth, with the soldering somewhere in the middle.)
05-22-2015, 11:54 PM
#52
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
3. (RonJ, Tony, TomCat, and myself) what am I? chopped liver??
Lol kidding, I was going to say the exact same thing about you guys and leave myself out of that list.
THESE GUYS ARE HONDA GURUS, LISTEN TO THEM, AND FOLLOW WHAT THEY SAY AND ASK FOR, AND YOU WILL GET IT GOING, AND IN LESS STEPS TOO!!
You are on the right track now, so dont get distracted aga...SQUIRREL!!!
Lol kidding, I was going to say the exact same thing about you guys and leave myself out of that list.
THESE GUYS ARE HONDA GURUS, LISTEN TO THEM, AND FOLLOW WHAT THEY SAY AND ASK FOR, AND YOU WILL GET IT GOING, AND IN LESS STEPS TOO!!
You are on the right track now, so dont get distracted aga...SQUIRREL!!!
Hehe.. nah.
05-23-2015, 12:02 AM
#53
Sol to Sol
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
You can clean rosin off with rubbing alcohol. DO NOT SCRAPE. (its easier anyway, and $.99 at walgreens)
Compression test, just need the raw numbers first, cold or hot wont matter, its like you saw, we need to know how close they are together. If they are NOT close on a dry test, THEN we can start looking at the other things like seeing wet test results. (I'd go thru twice, just to be sure)
If they are within say, 115-125 (110-120 etc) on all, then you are good, on that at least.. So, first things first
/beer
Compression test, just need the raw numbers first, cold or hot wont matter, its like you saw, we need to know how close they are together. If they are NOT close on a dry test, THEN we can start looking at the other things like seeing wet test results. (I'd go thru twice, just to be sure)
If they are within say, 115-125 (110-120 etc) on all, then you are good, on that at least.. So, first things first
/beer
05-23-2015, 12:17 AM
#54
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
You're given option A and option B, and you dive into point C. Instead of doing diagnostic tests, you jump straight to "let's rip it out and start playing with it". Come on, man.
Since you're so intent on taking your own path, and doing your own thing, and since posting FSM download links publicly is frowned upon...you have a PM.
Since you're so intent on taking your own path, and doing your own thing, and since posting FSM download links publicly is frowned upon...you have a PM.
05-23-2015, 04:03 AM
#55
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
Posts: 15,555
Received 309 Likes
on
285 Posts
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Tomorrow I will attempt to focus on the compression test. I usually go to youtube and view videos to see how it is done and what is performed correctly and what is performed in correctly as a way of teaching myself before I give it a shot. I also noticed that there is brown stuff all over my main relay and I am Not sure what it is a quick read and I do mean quick from google says that it may be cheap glue of sorts and becomes conductive when it turns brown on circuit boards and mine is brown. So I will revisit the solder situation as I am getting practice with letting the solder sink into the board which if I understand it is what you want to make a good contact with the board.
Thought we had VTEC, I-VTEC and e-VTEC, but the topic of the attack is not the most depressing thing right now so I will happily link where I got that information since this is in fact a learning curve and this is probably the first time ever ever ever that I have begun turning the wrenches on my own car. Not only that but this mechanic assistant fellow that I have has said things such as how he doesn't need to do compression test on thing to find out what is wrong so... since statements like that strike me as so wrong I may in fact give into my orange to fire that guy although then I would not have an assistant.
It is in store computers that the 1.5L is in LX and DX maybe even HX motors. All that matters to me is that I find it sitting in my (EX) engine bay. I will re-read posted info tomorrow A.M.
Glad to have you aboard. Let's move forward.
Thought we had VTEC, I-VTEC and e-VTEC, but the topic of the attack is not the most depressing thing right now so I will happily link where I got that information since this is in fact a learning curve and this is probably the first time ever ever ever that I have begun turning the wrenches on my own car. Not only that but this mechanic assistant fellow that I have has said things such as how he doesn't need to do compression test on thing to find out what is wrong so... since statements like that strike me as so wrong I may in fact give into my orange to fire that guy although then I would not have an assistant.
It is in store computers that the 1.5L is in LX and DX maybe even HX motors. All that matters to me is that I find it sitting in my (EX) engine bay. I will re-read posted info tomorrow A.M.
Glad to have you aboard. Let's move forward.
05-23-2015, 07:59 AM
#56
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
^^ Ladies/gentlemen, this may sound stupid, but.. I woke up with a lot of clarity, and I realized that I don't need a main relay of any kind nor an assistant to do a compression test.
So.. I woke up, and, even before breakfast.. Here is that.
So.. I woke up, and, even before breakfast.. Here is that.
05-23-2015, 08:02 AM
#57
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
WOW it feels good to do this stuff myself. Thank you all soo much!!!
Cyl #1: Just shy of 140psi.
^^^ 5 minutes later: Holding. No change.
Spark plug back in. On to the next to the left, Cyl #3..
Cyl #1: Just shy of 140psi.
^^^ 5 minutes later: Holding. No change.
Spark plug back in. On to the next to the left, Cyl #3..
05-23-2015, 08:09 AM
#58
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Cyl #3: We have just shy of 150psi. :good: Still holding, no change in time it took to post and upload.
05-23-2015, 08:14 AM
#59
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Cyl #2: Looks like 165psi (?)
Still holding in time it took to upload and post.
Still holding in time it took to upload and post.
05-23-2015, 09:30 AM
#61
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
Posts: 15,555
Received 309 Likes
on
285 Posts
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
You have the cylinders all wrong and cylinder 4 seems to be the most healthiest one out of the 4. But if there is water in there than you have other issues. Do your spark plugs smell like fuel?
05-23-2015, 10:34 AM
#62
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Now, just so i can clarify. I had "someone" tell me that "Cylinder #1 is the one closest to the timing belt, or driver's side in this case." Is that backwards? Is Cyl. #1 the one on the passenger side, with the 190psi?
I will check for a fuel smell.
05-23-2015, 10:35 AM
#63
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
I even re-did it. (*And yes, I concede that I know nothing about 1. Cylinder numbering 2. What numbers are good and bad.)
My lowest one was 142psi..
My lowest one was 142psi..
05-23-2015, 10:50 AM
#66
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
05-23-2015, 11:21 AM
#68
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Going out to get a new.. will check back and re-read last night's action plan and new posts when I get back.
05-23-2015, 12:13 PM
#69
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
It looks like you created some cold solder joints on your main relay, the brown was likely flux and or board coating which comes up when soldering naturally and don't affect anything.
You need a stronger soldering iron to fix thos cold solder joints. They are the non shiny ones. A good solder joint doesn't look "faded" or lumpy.
I didn't see if you said wether or not the fluid on number four smelled like gas or not.
It looks bad though if it is not gas.
It might not be worth trying to fix and another junkyard motor might be in order.
You need a stronger soldering iron to fix thos cold solder joints. They are the non shiny ones. A good solder joint doesn't look "faded" or lumpy.
I didn't see if you said wether or not the fluid on number four smelled like gas or not.
It looks bad though if it is not gas.
It might not be worth trying to fix and another junkyard motor might be in order.
05-23-2015, 12:49 PM
#70
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
It looks like you created some cold solder joints on your main relay, the brown was likely flux and or board coating which comes up when soldering naturally and don't affect anything.
You need a stronger soldering iron to fix thos cold solder joints. They are the non shiny ones. A good solder joint doesn't look "faded" or lumpy.
I didn't see if you said wether or not the fluid on number four smelled like gas or not.
It looks bad though if it is not gas.
It might not be worth trying to fix and another junkyard motor might be in order.
You need a stronger soldering iron to fix thos cold solder joints. They are the non shiny ones. A good solder joint doesn't look "faded" or lumpy.
I didn't see if you said wether or not the fluid on number four smelled like gas or not.
It looks bad though if it is not gas.
It might not be worth trying to fix and another junkyard motor might be in order.
I have to turn it over to smell for gas. That is the next on my list. I know there was ZERO fuel pressure when I tested.. which is what had me look to Main Relay in the first place. I will recreate the fuel pressure test as well. I no longer hear any fuel pump engaging.
Maybe another D16Z6 back in this thing.. in the back of my head, im thinking that. OR I could get good practice.. if the engine is now junk then would we all want to see how bad, let me get some practice in taking off a head?
junkyard motor
05-23-2015, 03:19 PM
#71
Sol to Sol
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Well, at least you tried. But you didn't follow the directions for the test. :/
I can tell you didn't remove ALL The plugs so the engine can spin freely. Did you also disconnect the distributor, AND have it WOT (Wide open Throttle)?
Either way, I think thats enough to tell..
I'm betting if you shine a light down in #4 you will see its got coolant in it (unless it smells like gas, which in this case would be GOOD news) and thats making the pressure higher than the others.
So, don't do ANYTHING ELSE until you smell that fluid and let us know if its gas or not, then we can go from there.
Don't worry about the fuel, relay, etc until you know about the engine!
I can tell you didn't remove ALL The plugs so the engine can spin freely. Did you also disconnect the distributor, AND have it WOT (Wide open Throttle)?
Either way, I think thats enough to tell..
I'm betting if you shine a light down in #4 you will see its got coolant in it (unless it smells like gas, which in this case would be GOOD news) and thats making the pressure higher than the others.
So, don't do ANYTHING ELSE until you smell that fluid and let us know if its gas or not, then we can go from there.
Don't worry about the fuel, relay, etc until you know about the engine!
05-23-2015, 03:30 PM
#72
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Well, at least you tried. But you didn't follow the directions for the test. :/
I can tell you didn't remove ALL The plugs so the engine can spin freely. Did you also disconnect the distributor, AND have it WOT (Wide open Throttle)?
Either way, I think thats enough to tell..
I'm betting if you shine a light down in #4 you will see its got coolant in it (unless it smells like gas, which in this case would be GOOD news) and thats making the pressure higher than the others.
So, don't do ANYTHING ELSE until you smell that fluid and let us know if its gas or not, then we can go from there.
Don't worry about the fuel, relay, etc until you know about the engine!
I can tell you didn't remove ALL The plugs so the engine can spin freely. Did you also disconnect the distributor, AND have it WOT (Wide open Throttle)?
Either way, I think thats enough to tell..
I'm betting if you shine a light down in #4 you will see its got coolant in it (unless it smells like gas, which in this case would be GOOD news) and thats making the pressure higher than the others.
So, don't do ANYTHING ELSE until you smell that fluid and let us know if its gas or not, then we can go from there.
Don't worry about the fuel, relay, etc until you know about the engine!
Quick question: Should I try to put oil in the cylinder through spark plug hole, to see if compression rises (?) Or.. no, just check out the gas smell, if there is.. I can also remove all the plugs before doing it again. (Im getting impression I did the test wrong.)
Either tonight, or tomorrow morning more likely, ill get that done.
05-23-2015, 04:58 PM
#73
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
^^ Re-did test. Am halfway through..
Cyl #1 (closest timing belt, closest driver's side)
DRY: 152psi
WET: 170psi
Cyl #2
DRY: 160psi
WET: 180psi
Cyl #3
DRY: 175psi
WET: 185psi
Cyl #4
DRY: 195psi
WET: 1st time: 270psi (!!)
2nd time: 250psi (??)
Faint fuel smell mid-way through when cranking.
Video coming..
Cyl #1 (closest timing belt, closest driver's side)
DRY: 152psi
WET: 170psi
Cyl #2
DRY: 160psi
WET: 180psi
Cyl #3
DRY: 175psi
WET: 185psi
Cyl #4
DRY: 195psi
WET: 1st time: 270psi (!!)
2nd time: 250psi (??)
Faint fuel smell mid-way through when cranking.
Video coming..
05-23-2015, 05:05 PM
#74
Sol to Sol
05-23-2015, 05:25 PM
#75
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
If you're getting a fuel smell, then you didn't follow the directions for a proper compression test. Specifically, you didn't disconnect the ECU fuse. Come on, man. You're halfassing the work, and that's only going to do more harm than good.