sorta2

I am in the middle of doing a mini me swap (D15b7 block w/D16z6 head) I have everything swapped over and torqued and looking all good filled up the fluids went to start and I have no spark. I replaces the dizzy, cap and rotor, plug wires, plugs, all of the distributor stuff is for the z6 head. I checked the fuses and main relay. I've heard of a distributor shorting out an ecu before hoping that, that's not the case. My edu is a P71 that's chipped and all setup for this swap. I'm lost and could use some help thanks

walala69

check the ignition module in the distributor

sorta2

I bought a new distributor, unless it is bad out of the box. I rigged the D15 distributor back on and it still didn't have spark.

Former User

What car?

Does the fuel pump prime?

CEL codes?

Does battery voltage reach the coil and igniter unit inside the distributor?

sorta2

Sorry can't believe I spaced putting that info in my post, long day yesterday.
Anyway it's a 94 Civic Hatch DX, fuel pump primes, I thought we checked all the stuff on the distributor with a test light, (not a meter to get exact voltage) I will have to double check with my buddy on that, and didn't check for any codes the CEL doesn't come on until you crank it for about 5sec, didn't think to check for codes. It seems to me that I'm not getting and signal from the ECU to the distributor, not sure if that is the way it goes or not. How can I rule out the possibility of me frying another ECU?

Former User

Title edited.

The ECU is generally the last thing to consider. Rule out everything else first.

sorta2

I have battery voltage to everything on the distributor my friend suggested checking the resistance on the crank angle sensor. But I'm not sure on how to do that properly.

sorta2

So I went and did some resistance tests on the sensors in the distributor and my ohms were no where near what they should be. I was getting 8 ohms on the org/wht, blu/grn, & blu/yel wires and they should be like 350-700 ohms. Now when I tested these I had the car off and tested these to the negative side on the battery.

sorta2

Bump

sorta2

bump

Former User

If the Ohm reading of any distributor sensor is out of spec, then replace the distributor housing.

sorta2

I finally figured out what the problem was. After buying a Honda Service manual and the electric troubleshooting guide, and actually reading and learning on how to properly test things with my multimeter, I was again testing continuity from the ECU to the sensors in the distributor when I noticed something not right with the wires coming from the harness to the distributor plug. The yellow/green wire had be cut or broke somehow and was very poorly sodered back together and it had broke again. Cleaned it up and put a butt connector on it and it fired right up!!!

But here is my problem now
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...9#post46681659