PapaMoose

I think I have my no spark issue narrowed down to either the distributor or ICM. I thought I'd be able to have an auto parts store test the ICM however none around me test ICM's anymore. Ron, is it an easy process to test the ICM out of the vehicle. This is an NEC MC-8541. I don't see terminal labeled A,B,C, and D either. Thanks for all your help.

Former User

The ICM test is a bit tricky but can be done:


http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...r-testing.html

PapaMoose

Hi there, I'm back to work on getting this car running. Just replaced the distributor with a new one which includes new cap, rotor, coil, icm, etc. and still no spark. What do I check now? Thanks again

Former User

Did you do the tests shown in post #50 (steps 1-4)? Post the results.

PapaMoose

Well I'd like to presume that the icm is good now that I bought a brand new one. That testing seems a bit ambiguous in that I don't seem to understand what to ground to, etc. Is there a test for the Main relay to rule out that my no spark issue is not related to main relay. I have new distributor with everything inside new, cap and spark plug wires. I also accidentally got a jolt from the coil with the ignition switched to ON(II). Does that mean anything?

Former User

You need to do those voltage tests. Use the thermostat housing as ground for the voltage tests. Post all readings.

PapaMoose

I have performed tests in post #50 for voltage. The black/yellow wire voltage to battery ground gives me 11.04 volts. The white/blue wire to battery ground is 10.96 volts. The battery voltage measured across posts is 11.21 volts. I did install a new distributor which included new icm and coil which still has not solved problem. I plan to test coil on the new distributor to confirm that resistance measurements are good. Is it looking like the ecm is bad?? What can I do to confirm which part is defective from here? Thanks again for all help.

PapaMoose

should i also check the yellow/green wire to battery ground for voltage as stated in step #5?

Former User

Test the coil and igniter unit and check the Yel/Grn wire for a short or open.

PapaMoose

I have tested the coil and it is within specs as well as the old coil from old distributor and it was fine too. I don't really know how to test icm but it is brand new distributor so I'm assuming it is good. The green/yellow wire has no opens or shorts. What does this mean?

When ignition is switched to on(II) the check engine light comes on for two seconds and then clicks off and I hear pump prime. Does this assure the ecu is working properly. The only thing I can think of is I got a bad new distributor with either a bad icm or another part inside. What to do now Ron? Thanks,

PapaMoose

bump