imadigitalgod

My car just went past 93,000 miles. i need an oil change also. what i am thinking of doing is draining all the oil in it that i have right now(i have mobile 1 synthetic in it), take the oil pan off to clean it out really well, then i would put in really cheap oil in the engine so it would 'wash' the parts of the engine with clean oil, while putting Gunk Motor Flush in that while running it for 5 minutes(like the directions say) and then drain that oil and putting Mobile 1 full synthetic back in it. I jsut want to clean out my engine really well and this was just a thought....any opinions would be helpful(i know this would make it cost more)

sockvtec

seafoam that thing

wolve

seafoam that thing???
sorry, i'm dutch (i don't know all the englisch terminology)

JDMlyfestyle

seafoam its great stuff..
do a search for seafoam.
it cleans carbon build up, cleans fuel system, cleans the gunk on the internals.

.BigSexy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seafoam its great stuff..
do a search for seafoam.
it cleans carbon build up, cleans fuel system, cleans the gunk on the internals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed...used it only twice, but had good results.....but make sure to read the instructions!!

athoughts

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolve &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (i don't know all the englisch terminology)</TD></TR></TABLE>

NrG

you can't switch back to mineral oil. You're going to **** some **** up if you do.
If you're using full syn, then keep using it. dont add mineral oil to "wash" the engine. Use seafoam; it's awesome stuff. remember to read the instructions.

imadigitalgod

alright so i should probably just take back the Gunk motor wash? I also got a PureONE oil filter to use when i get the mobile one at walmart in the big jug they have(5 quarts for $20). is that a good filter to use also?

uniseriate

If you are going to clean out your engine, Auto-Rx ( http://www.auto-rx.com ) is your best bet. The thing about Seafoam or ATF is that it'll clean out your engine very quickly which can dislodge large deposits that can clog up some passageway down the line. Auto-Rx works gradually which allows the build up to be taken up by the oil filter.

Here is a comparison shot of before and after an Auto-Rx application: http://www.rms13.com/imgal/

The only downside to Auto-Rx is its cost.

bloopie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NrG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can't switch back to mineral oil. You're going to **** some **** up if you do.
If you're using full syn, then keep using it. dont add mineral oil to "wash" the engine. Use seafoam; it's awesome stuff. remember to read the instructions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please give me some factual evidence that he cannot switch back. That whole "cant switch back stuff" is just a myth and Im tired of hearing people spread misinformation around.

Imadisgrace

this whole "you can't switch between mineral and synthetic" thing is wrong,I have used synthetic and it started seeping out of the gaskets so I went back to regular oil and had no problems also cleaning the engine out with the gunk and cheap oil is an ok idea but it's overkill in my opinion. It would be alot of work to remove the oil pan just for an oil change but it is your car and I really see no harm in it if that is really what you want to do. Draining the old oil and replacing the filter then refilling with fresh oil is really all that's necessary and nothing more is needed. Any name brand filter should be fine.

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imadigitalgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright so i should probably just take back the Gunk motor wash? I also got a PureONE oil filter to use when i get the mobile one at walmart in the big jug they have(5 quarts for $20). is that a good filter to use also?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would not flush that engine. It's got some pretty high milage, and those 'flush' treatments can be pretty harsh. Just use seafoam.

Since you're using synthetic, if you've kept the car maintained with regular changes, you don't have really anything to worry about as far as buildup is concerned.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by panasoanic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are going to clean out your engine, Auto-Rx ( http://www.auto-rx.com ) is your best bet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have my doubts about this product. The only reason being is some of the testimonials. On the main page, the guy talks about having a seal leak, and after using the product, the leak was gone (?!?). There are a few others on the site that just make outrageous claims, but I don't have any experience with it. All I know is every product that has made claims like that previously has ended up in litigation for false claims.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuner.fish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That whole "cant switch back stuff" is just a myth and Im tired of hearing people spread misinformation around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SloDelSol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this whole "you can't switch between mineral and synthetic" thing is wrong</TD></TR></TABLE>

Very true for a modern engine. Some of the older motors (20+yr old) that were designed before synthetic was out may have some incompatible seals. Also, an older, unmaintained engine can develop deposits which are helping to seal the motor, and running syn could 'flush' them and cause some leakage. These are very rare cases.

axhandler

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuner.fish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please give me some factual evidence that he cannot switch back. That whole "cant switch back stuff" is just a myth and Im tired of hearing people spread misinformation around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

He can't because there is none...

Like others have said, there is no reason why you can't switch between the two. There are plenty of people who mix them together, not to mention the synthetic blends.

Also, to the original poster, if you search you'll find lots of people, like me, who have switched from regular to syn and back to regular.

flood

Why do you want to "clean out" the engine?

Ever heard: if it ain't broke, dont fix it

NrG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tuner.fish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please give me some factual evidence that he cannot switch back. That whole "cant switch back stuff" is just a myth and Im tired of hearing people spread misinformation around.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.chris-longhurst.com....html

wilsel

If you have deposits sitting out of the way, why would you want to break them loose to travel thru the entire engine? I'd rather them stay where they are.

B16Civic93

yes, that myth about not being able to swith back to regular mineral oil after going synthetic is a crock of ****. don't listen to them about that, whoever started that rumor need a swift kick in the nuts.

axhandler

First thing first...

From chris-longhurst.com website:
DISCLAIMER:I am in no way affiliated with any branch of the motor industry. I'm just a pro-car, pro-motorbike petrolhead :-) The information on these pages is the result of a lot of information-gathering and research. It also answers a lot of FAQs from posters on the transport-related usenet groups. However, by reading these pages, you agree to indemnify, defend and hold harmless me (Christopher J Longhurst), any sponsors and/or site providers against any and all claims, damages, costs or other expenses that arise directly or indirectly from you fiddling with your car or motorbike as a result of what you read here.
In short : the advice here is worth as much as you're paying for it
One more thing : the Google ads are only at the top of the page here - I need to pay for my site space and bandwidth somehow. The rest of the page is ad-free for your reading pleasure.

And he does in fact say not to switch between the two...but he has no factual reason for it...just his opinion. You won't find any manufacturers stating anything to that effect.

Castrol.com:

1. SYNTEC is fully compatible with all conventional and synthetic oils.

2. SYNTEC can be used with confidence in every gasoline engine passenger car, new or old, regardless of oil previously used.

Amsoil.com:

1. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is formulated with advanced Polyalphaolefin (PAO) synthetic base stocks. PAO base stocks are the industry's premier base stock technology, and when combined with an exact blend of premium additives, provide second-to-none protection and performance in the most demanding operating conditions. AMSOIL 5W-30 resists high temperature degradation and flows freely in cold conditions for substantial reduction in engine wear. It provides excellent engine protection, maximum power, improved fuel efficiency and extended oil drain intervals.

2. MIXING AMSOIL
AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil is compatible with conventional petroleum oils; however, mixing AMSOIL 5W-30 with a conventional oil will shorten the drain period of AMSOIL 5W-30. Engine oil additives or after-market products are not recommended for use with AMSOIL 5W-30.


Modified by axhandler at 12:27 PM 3/1/2005


Modified by axhandler at 12:28 PM 3/1/2005