A more technical and civil discussion of wheels
03-12-2008, 11:25 AM
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A more technical and civil discussion of wheels
Construction vs. style.
These aren't strong, lightweight rims. Lower priced rims use lower priced materials and construction methods. This means they weigh more and can support less stress.
Instead of focusing on style, focus on the weight. I always look for wheels that weigh LESS than their diameter. For example, 17x7.5 Enkei JSM and the RPF-1 weighs 15 lbs, RP03 17x7 weighs 16.5, Gram Lights 57f 17x8 weighs 16 lbs, 17x7 Motegi Traklite weighs an astounding 14.6 pounds, 17x7.5 SSR type C RS weighs 15.5, Volk Racing TE 37 weighs 15.5 lbs.
Out of all those, only the RPF1, SSR type C RS, and the TE 37 are NOT 5 spoke. Most of them cost less than 300 a wheel. Almost all of them are forged vs. cast construction.
Then when you look by 5 spoke 'style', less than 150 a wheel, you get these kinds of results:
Kazera KZA 17x7.5 20 lbs, 17x7 Motegi SX5 19 lbs, Rial Porto 17x7.5 22.5 lbs, 17x7 Sport Tuning Turbine 19 lbs. Most cost under 200 a wheel, most are cast construction.
What i'm saying is spend a little more and focus on construction and weight as an important decision factor!
The Si doesn't make enough power to haul around heavier wheels. Wheels are rotational mass, meaning that adding 20 lbs to the car doesn't sacrifice much power, but adding 20 lbs to the wheels and tires, which the engine needs to use power to turn, sacrifices braking acceleration, and handling performance.
Offset is another factor to consider. Wide wheels require a different offset to fit within the stock wheel wells, while low offset wheels will result in scraping of the fender when the suspension is compressed. It's all personal preference; do you want to roll the fender to look good or to tuck a particularly wide wheel in there? The size of the tire is important here. I personally don't see a need for tires wider than 215-225 on a street driven Civic.
Sidewall is also a factor. You can get larger wheels.
Pros: Better handling due to less flex in a smaller sidewall. Flashy.
Cons: Ride is harsher because less flex due to smaller sidewall. Risk blowing tires and denting rims greater. In general, larger wheels weigh more, damaging acceleration and braking.
Beyond wheels it all comes down to the type of tire as well. How soft is it? Will I trade stickier, softer rubber for longevity and a bit of fuel economy? Is the tread pattern useful in only dry conditions, dry and wet, or all season? Run flat or standard? Price is a factor too. You can get some really good quality tires for not much money, but you have to find your own personal balance of performance and comfort.
A basic rule of thumb is measure the weight of the stock wheel and try to come in below it. Width is also a personal preference. Less width means less contact patch for your tires, but also means less rotational mass. It depends on your personal opinion of what a good balance for the car is. You get improved handling, acceleration, and braking from a wheel that looks good to your personal preferences!
My PERSONAL opinion is that the 8th gen Civics perform best with 17x7 or 7.5 wheels and 215 or 225/45/17 tires for the best balance of comfort and performance. I would personally also try to keep wheel weight under 16 lbs.
But do whatever you want, it's your car and your sense of style!
These aren't strong, lightweight rims. Lower priced rims use lower priced materials and construction methods. This means they weigh more and can support less stress.
Instead of focusing on style, focus on the weight. I always look for wheels that weigh LESS than their diameter. For example, 17x7.5 Enkei JSM and the RPF-1 weighs 15 lbs, RP03 17x7 weighs 16.5, Gram Lights 57f 17x8 weighs 16 lbs, 17x7 Motegi Traklite weighs an astounding 14.6 pounds, 17x7.5 SSR type C RS weighs 15.5, Volk Racing TE 37 weighs 15.5 lbs.
Out of all those, only the RPF1, SSR type C RS, and the TE 37 are NOT 5 spoke. Most of them cost less than 300 a wheel. Almost all of them are forged vs. cast construction.
Then when you look by 5 spoke 'style', less than 150 a wheel, you get these kinds of results:
Kazera KZA 17x7.5 20 lbs, 17x7 Motegi SX5 19 lbs, Rial Porto 17x7.5 22.5 lbs, 17x7 Sport Tuning Turbine 19 lbs. Most cost under 200 a wheel, most are cast construction.
What i'm saying is spend a little more and focus on construction and weight as an important decision factor!
The Si doesn't make enough power to haul around heavier wheels. Wheels are rotational mass, meaning that adding 20 lbs to the car doesn't sacrifice much power, but adding 20 lbs to the wheels and tires, which the engine needs to use power to turn, sacrifices braking acceleration, and handling performance.
Offset is another factor to consider. Wide wheels require a different offset to fit within the stock wheel wells, while low offset wheels will result in scraping of the fender when the suspension is compressed. It's all personal preference; do you want to roll the fender to look good or to tuck a particularly wide wheel in there? The size of the tire is important here. I personally don't see a need for tires wider than 215-225 on a street driven Civic.
Sidewall is also a factor. You can get larger wheels.
Pros: Better handling due to less flex in a smaller sidewall. Flashy.
Cons: Ride is harsher because less flex due to smaller sidewall. Risk blowing tires and denting rims greater. In general, larger wheels weigh more, damaging acceleration and braking.
Beyond wheels it all comes down to the type of tire as well. How soft is it? Will I trade stickier, softer rubber for longevity and a bit of fuel economy? Is the tread pattern useful in only dry conditions, dry and wet, or all season? Run flat or standard? Price is a factor too. You can get some really good quality tires for not much money, but you have to find your own personal balance of performance and comfort.
A basic rule of thumb is measure the weight of the stock wheel and try to come in below it. Width is also a personal preference. Less width means less contact patch for your tires, but also means less rotational mass. It depends on your personal opinion of what a good balance for the car is. You get improved handling, acceleration, and braking from a wheel that looks good to your personal preferences!
My PERSONAL opinion is that the 8th gen Civics perform best with 17x7 or 7.5 wheels and 215 or 225/45/17 tires for the best balance of comfort and performance. I would personally also try to keep wheel weight under 16 lbs.
But do whatever you want, it's your car and your sense of style!
03-12-2008, 11:58 AM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (accordselux)
nice intelligent thread you have here accordselux
I have to agree with pretty much all of your points.
Enkei RPF-1s are probably one of my favorite wheels. And they even offer 17X7 +45 (our stock size). If I was looking to purchase wheels for this car right now, that's what they'd be. Just my $.02. They don't look bad, they're light, meets my needs.
Modified by IT GUY at 4:24 PM 3/12/2008
I have to agree with pretty much all of your points.
Enkei RPF-1s are probably one of my favorite wheels. And they even offer 17X7 +45 (our stock size). If I was looking to purchase wheels for this car right now, that's what they'd be. Just my $.02. They don't look bad, they're light, meets my needs.
Modified by IT GUY at 4:24 PM 3/12/2008
03-12-2008, 12:22 PM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (IT GUY)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice intelligent thread you have here accordselux
I have to agree with pretty much all of your points.
Enkei RPF-1s are probably one of my favorite wheels. And they even offer 17X7 +45 (our stock size). If I was looking to purchase wheels for this car right now, that's what they'd be. Just my $.02. They don't look bad, they're light, and they're forged.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks!
Let me know what you disagree with, we can have a good discussion here.
I myself have Falken Hanabis on my Accord because they were cheap and weighed very little (125 a wheel, 16 lbs 17x7.5). But my car is 8 years old and I don't really care about it as much as I would a new Civic so I made that choice. Kosei K1's are also very cheap and very lightweight. There are exceptions to the rule...but they're both cast!
Cast wheels vs. forged are debatable as well. For the most part, cast wheels and forged don't matter on the street, except for strength. If you have a low sidewall, for example, cast wheels are more likely to go o ut of round because they don't have the strength that a forged process does. On the track however, I'd stick with forged, or a special casting process such as that on the Enkei RPF1, because I've seen a LOT of cheap wheels just shred from the forces placed on them on the track.
I have to agree with pretty much all of your points.
Enkei RPF-1s are probably one of my favorite wheels. And they even offer 17X7 +45 (our stock size). If I was looking to purchase wheels for this car right now, that's what they'd be. Just my $.02. They don't look bad, they're light, and they're forged.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks!
Let me know what you disagree with, we can have a good discussion here.
I myself have Falken Hanabis on my Accord because they were cheap and weighed very little (125 a wheel, 16 lbs 17x7.5). But my car is 8 years old and I don't really care about it as much as I would a new Civic so I made that choice. Kosei K1's are also very cheap and very lightweight. There are exceptions to the rule...but they're both cast!
Cast wheels vs. forged are debatable as well. For the most part, cast wheels and forged don't matter on the street, except for strength. If you have a low sidewall, for example, cast wheels are more likely to go o ut of round because they don't have the strength that a forged process does. On the track however, I'd stick with forged, or a special casting process such as that on the Enkei RPF1, because I've seen a LOT of cheap wheels just shred from the forces placed on them on the track.
03-12-2008, 12:26 PM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (accordselux)
IMO, there's no point in putting on bad looking wheels just to save a few lbs. A good set of wheels really makes a car look great.. and a bad set of wheels makes a car look like crap.
03-12-2008, 12:34 PM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (elohel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elohel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, there's no point in putting on bad looking wheels just to save a few lbs. A good set of wheels really makes a car look great.. and a bad set of wheels makes a car look like crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It really depends on what the purpose is. A track car or weekend wheels for the track, who really cares what they look like. A good set of wheels does make a car look good, and if that's your priority than you can justify the "good-looking" wheels that weigh more.
I just hate to spend several thousand dollars to "look good" and not get any other benefits. It's why I can't do the HFP wheels. Sure they look good, but they weigh the same or more than the factory wheels do.
It really depends on what the purpose is. A track car or weekend wheels for the track, who really cares what they look like. A good set of wheels does make a car look good, and if that's your priority than you can justify the "good-looking" wheels that weigh more.
I just hate to spend several thousand dollars to "look good" and not get any other benefits. It's why I can't do the HFP wheels. Sure they look good, but they weigh the same or more than the factory wheels do.
03-12-2008, 01:25 PM
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so, i'm in the market for some wheels, but i need to keep it cheap. i like the split five spoke look we have on the si's. any recommendations? what companies should i avoid? i like the look of the enkei rsv. that style appeals to my taste, i've had enkei's in the past with no problems, and was thinking about them. weight is an issue, as i'm looking for lighter than stock. please give me some ideas.
03-12-2008, 02:15 PM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (elohel)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elohel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IMO, there's no point in putting on bad looking wheels just to save a few lbs. A good set of wheels really makes a car look great.. and a bad set of wheels makes a car look like crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I said, it's personal preference. But hopefully this means that people will understand the benefits and drawbacks with particular wheel purchases and decide what things they are looking for in a wheel. It's meant as a basic guide from a performance standpoint. If someone sees two or three wheels they like, and they pick the ones that weigh 18 pounds vs 20, they won't have as many negative responses to the new wheels, as that extra 8 pounds adds up in unsprung weight!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07galaxygrey4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, i'm in the market for some wheels, but i need to keep it cheap. i like the split five spoke look we have on the si's. any recommendations? what companies should i avoid? i like the look of the enkei rsv. that style appeals to my taste, i've had enkei's in the past with no problems, and was thinking about them. weight is an issue, as i'm looking for lighter than stock. please give me some ideas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Enkei ZR1 in 17x7.5 weighs 18 lbs and is a split 5 spoker, the 17x7 RSV weighs 17.5 lbs, either would be a pretty good bet. Konig Feather is a possibility, if the bolt pattern is right, the Brig Mag10 is a good wheel if you can find it. I'm not sure because like IT Guy, I have my heart set on some Enkei RPF-1's.
I know it's not a split spoke, but the 5Zigen FN01R is a standby for a lightweight wheel in the Honda scene
I hope that kind of helps.
Your basic brands are important- if you haven't really heard of it, you probably don't want it. The wheel and tire forum and app/cosmetic may have inputs as well.
Good luck!
Like I said, it's personal preference. But hopefully this means that people will understand the benefits and drawbacks with particular wheel purchases and decide what things they are looking for in a wheel. It's meant as a basic guide from a performance standpoint. If someone sees two or three wheels they like, and they pick the ones that weigh 18 pounds vs 20, they won't have as many negative responses to the new wheels, as that extra 8 pounds adds up in unsprung weight!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 07galaxygrey4dr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so, i'm in the market for some wheels, but i need to keep it cheap. i like the split five spoke look we have on the si's. any recommendations? what companies should i avoid? i like the look of the enkei rsv. that style appeals to my taste, i've had enkei's in the past with no problems, and was thinking about them. weight is an issue, as i'm looking for lighter than stock. please give me some ideas.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Enkei ZR1 in 17x7.5 weighs 18 lbs and is a split 5 spoker, the 17x7 RSV weighs 17.5 lbs, either would be a pretty good bet. Konig Feather is a possibility, if the bolt pattern is right, the Brig Mag10 is a good wheel if you can find it. I'm not sure because like IT Guy, I have my heart set on some Enkei RPF-1's.
I know it's not a split spoke, but the 5Zigen FN01R is a standby for a lightweight wheel in the Honda scene
I hope that kind of helps.
Your basic brands are important- if you haven't really heard of it, you probably don't want it. The wheel and tire forum and app/cosmetic may have inputs as well.
Good luck!
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03-12-2008, 05:03 PM
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Re: (07galaxygrey4dr)
I am new to all this. How much do the stock SI wheels weigh? Also how is handling affected going to 18s from 17s if the wheel weights are about the same.
03-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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Re: (Exodus Cycling)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Exodus Cycling »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am new to all this. How much do the stock SI wheels weigh? Also how is handling affected going to 18s from 17s if the wheel weights are about the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not all to sure one how much the stock wheels weigh, but upping wheel diameter from 17 to 18 will decrease the aspect ratio of the tire (the sidewall). This in turn leads to less flexing of the tire when turning, therefore a more precise turn in, and as a pitfall, less cushioning leading to a slightly more rough ride. Also, even if the weight of the 18
wheels were less or equal to that of the 17's, there is more mass rotating further away from the center of wheel, meaning that it takes more power to turn the driving wheels. As a result, a slight loss in fwhp (talking about 2-3hp). Hope this helps.
Im not all to sure one how much the stock wheels weigh, but upping wheel diameter from 17 to 18 will decrease the aspect ratio of the tire (the sidewall). This in turn leads to less flexing of the tire when turning, therefore a more precise turn in, and as a pitfall, less cushioning leading to a slightly more rough ride. Also, even if the weight of the 18
wheels were less or equal to that of the 17's, there is more mass rotating further away from the center of wheel, meaning that it takes more power to turn the driving wheels. As a result, a slight loss in fwhp (talking about 2-3hp). Hope this helps.
03-12-2008, 11:33 PM
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Re: A more technical and civil discussion of wheels (accordselux)
Originally Posted by accordselux
Construction vs. style.
These aren't strong, lightweight rims. Lower priced rims use lower priced materials and construction methods. This means they weigh more and can support less stress.
Instead of focusing on style, focus on the weight. I always look for car parts & wheels that weigh LESS than their diameter. For example, 17x7.5 Enkei JSM and the RPF-1 weighs 15 lbs, RP03 17x7 weighs 16.5, Gram Lights 57f 17x8 weighs 16 lbs, 17x7 Motegi Traklite weighs an astounding 14.6 pounds, 17x7.5 SSR type C RS weighs 15.5, Volk Racing TE 37 weighs 15.5 lbs.
Out of all those, only the RPF1, SSR type C RS, and the TE 37 are NOT 5 spoke. Most of them cost less than 300 a wheel. Almost all of them are forged vs. cast construction.
Then when you look by 5 spoke 'style', less than 150 a wheel, you get these kinds of results:
Kazera KZA 17x7.5 20 lbs, 17x7 Motegi SX5 19 lbs, Rial Porto 17x7.5 22.5 lbs, 17x7 Sport Tuning Turbine 19 lbs. Most cost under 200 a wheel, most are cast construction.
What i'm saying is spend a little more and focus on construction and weight as an important decision factor!
The Si doesn't make enough power to haul around heavier wheels. Wheels are rotational mass, meaning that adding 20 lbs to the car doesn't sacrifice much power, but adding 20 lbs to the wheels and tires, which the engine needs to use power to turn, sacrifices braking acceleration, and handling performance.
Offset is another factor to consider. Wide wheels require a different offset to fit within the stock wheel wells, while low offset wheels will result in scraping of the fender when the suspension is compressed. It's all personal preference; do you want to roll the fender to look good or to tuck a particularly wide wheel in there? The size of the tire is important here. I personally don't see a need for tires wider than 215-225 on a street driven Civic.
Sidewall is also a factor. You can get larger wheels.
Pros: Better handling due to less flex in a smaller sidewall. Flashy.
Cons: Ride is harsher because less flex due to smaller sidewall. Risk blowing tires and denting rims greater. In general, larger wheels weigh more, damaging acceleration and braking.
Beyond wheels it all comes down to the type of tire as well. How soft is it? Will I trade stickier, softer rubber for longevity and a bit of fuel economy? Is the tread pattern useful in only dry conditions, dry and wet, or all season? Run flat or standard? Price is a factor too. You can get some really good quality tires for not much money, but you have to find your own personal balance of performance and comfort.
A basic rule of thumb is measure the weight of the stock wheel and try to come in below it. Width is also a personal preference. Less width means less contact patch for your tires, but also means less rotational mass. It depends on your personal opinion of what a good balance for the car is. You get improved handling, acceleration, and braking from a wheel that looks good to your personal preferences!
My PERSONAL opinion is that the 8th gen Civics perform best with 17x7 or 7.5 wheels and 215 or 225/45/17 tires for the best balance of comfort and performance. I would personally also try to keep wheel weight under 16 lbs.
But do whatever you want, it's your car and your sense of style!
These aren't strong, lightweight rims. Lower priced rims use lower priced materials and construction methods. This means they weigh more and can support less stress.
Instead of focusing on style, focus on the weight. I always look for car parts & wheels that weigh LESS than their diameter. For example, 17x7.5 Enkei JSM and the RPF-1 weighs 15 lbs, RP03 17x7 weighs 16.5, Gram Lights 57f 17x8 weighs 16 lbs, 17x7 Motegi Traklite weighs an astounding 14.6 pounds, 17x7.5 SSR type C RS weighs 15.5, Volk Racing TE 37 weighs 15.5 lbs.
Out of all those, only the RPF1, SSR type C RS, and the TE 37 are NOT 5 spoke. Most of them cost less than 300 a wheel. Almost all of them are forged vs. cast construction.
Then when you look by 5 spoke 'style', less than 150 a wheel, you get these kinds of results:
Kazera KZA 17x7.5 20 lbs, 17x7 Motegi SX5 19 lbs, Rial Porto 17x7.5 22.5 lbs, 17x7 Sport Tuning Turbine 19 lbs. Most cost under 200 a wheel, most are cast construction.
What i'm saying is spend a little more and focus on construction and weight as an important decision factor!
The Si doesn't make enough power to haul around heavier wheels. Wheels are rotational mass, meaning that adding 20 lbs to the car doesn't sacrifice much power, but adding 20 lbs to the wheels and tires, which the engine needs to use power to turn, sacrifices braking acceleration, and handling performance.
Offset is another factor to consider. Wide wheels require a different offset to fit within the stock wheel wells, while low offset wheels will result in scraping of the fender when the suspension is compressed. It's all personal preference; do you want to roll the fender to look good or to tuck a particularly wide wheel in there? The size of the tire is important here. I personally don't see a need for tires wider than 215-225 on a street driven Civic.
Sidewall is also a factor. You can get larger wheels.
Pros: Better handling due to less flex in a smaller sidewall. Flashy.
Cons: Ride is harsher because less flex due to smaller sidewall. Risk blowing tires and denting rims greater. In general, larger wheels weigh more, damaging acceleration and braking.
Beyond wheels it all comes down to the type of tire as well. How soft is it? Will I trade stickier, softer rubber for longevity and a bit of fuel economy? Is the tread pattern useful in only dry conditions, dry and wet, or all season? Run flat or standard? Price is a factor too. You can get some really good quality tires for not much money, but you have to find your own personal balance of performance and comfort.
A basic rule of thumb is measure the weight of the stock wheel and try to come in below it. Width is also a personal preference. Less width means less contact patch for your tires, but also means less rotational mass. It depends on your personal opinion of what a good balance for the car is. You get improved handling, acceleration, and braking from a wheel that looks good to your personal preferences!
My PERSONAL opinion is that the 8th gen Civics perform best with 17x7 or 7.5 wheels and 215 or 225/45/17 tires for the best balance of comfort and performance. I would personally also try to keep wheel weight under 16 lbs.
But do whatever you want, it's your car and your sense of style!
The front wheels do not clear the front of the wheel opening when wheel is turned. It seems ok everywhere else. The smallest performance tire they had at the tire store did not clear, says cannot use a smaller tire on this wheel. I asked if any other kind of tire would fit, and they said no (don't believe this, as I've seen some pretty big wheels/tires on Corvairs with stock fenders).
03-13-2008, 08:41 AM
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Re: (FG2quick)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FG2quick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not all to sure one how much the stock wheels weigh, but upping wheel diameter from 17 to 18 will decrease the aspect ratio of the tire (the sidewall). This in turn leads to less flexing of the tire when turning, therefore a more precise turn in, and as a pitfall, less cushioning leading to a slightly more rough ride. Also, even if the weight of the 18
wheels were less or equal to that of the 17's, there is more mass rotating further away from the center of wheel, meaning that it takes more power to turn the driving wheels. As a result, a slight loss in fwhp (talking about 2-3hp). Hope this
helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I forgot this. A larger wheel means more weight farther from the hub. Think of it as a rock on a string. A short piece of string takes less effort to spin the rock, but if you use a longer piece of string, you need more effort to spin it and it takes more effort for the momentum to continue. That's why some people sticdk with smaller wheels, even in autox. They determined weight (and price of tires!) was more
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenfre »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The front wheels do not clear the front of the wheel opening when wheel is turned. It seems ok everywhere else. The smallest performance tire they had at the tire store did not clear, says cannot use a smaller tire on this wheel. I asked if any other kind of tire would fit, and they said no (don't believe this, as I've seen some pretty big wheels/tires on Corvairs with stock fenders). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, offset and tire size is restricted by the width of the wheel well, how low the suspension is, and the length of the fender. When I have passengers in my backseat, for example, compressing the suspension, the lower offset wheel and tire scrapes on the fender.
Smaller tires can be difficult, because of stretching, which is popular on VWs. If you use too narrow a tire, the sidewall begins to take more stress and is used as part of the contact patch, which despite what VW owners say, I think isn't in the best interests of safety and performance
wheels were less or equal to that of the 17's, there is more mass rotating further away from the center of wheel, meaning that it takes more power to turn the driving wheels. As a result, a slight loss in fwhp (talking about 2-3hp). Hope this
helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I forgot this. A larger wheel means more weight farther from the hub. Think of it as a rock on a string. A short piece of string takes less effort to spin the rock, but if you use a longer piece of string, you need more effort to spin it and it takes more effort for the momentum to continue. That's why some people sticdk with smaller wheels, even in autox. They determined weight (and price of tires!) was more
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenfre »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The front wheels do not clear the front of the wheel opening when wheel is turned. It seems ok everywhere else. The smallest performance tire they had at the tire store did not clear, says cannot use a smaller tire on this wheel. I asked if any other kind of tire would fit, and they said no (don't believe this, as I've seen some pretty big wheels/tires on Corvairs with stock fenders). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, offset and tire size is restricted by the width of the wheel well, how low the suspension is, and the length of the fender. When I have passengers in my backseat, for example, compressing the suspension, the lower offset wheel and tire scrapes on the fender.
Smaller tires can be difficult, because of stretching, which is popular on VWs. If you use too narrow a tire, the sidewall begins to take more stress and is used as part of the contact patch, which despite what VW owners say, I think isn't in the best interests of safety and performance
03-13-2008, 09:41 AM
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Re: (accordselux)
What about Kosei T1s? 13.7lbs in 17x7. I know these wheels are strong enough as I ran them on my Evo (in 17x8 size) and they held up fine. I ended up buying RPF1s but the Kosei wheels are about $40 less per wheel and look excellent on the Si.
Regards,
Alan
Regards,
Alan
03-13-2008, 11:32 AM
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Re: (00R101)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about Kosei T1s? 13.7lbs in 17x7. I know these wheels are strong enough as I ran them on my Evo (in 17x8 size) and they held up fine. I ended up buying RPF1s but the Kosei wheels are about $40 less per wheel and look excellent on the Si.
Regards,
Alan</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was a choice as well! I was looking for split 5 spokes earlier, but the split 6 K1 TS's are a VERY lightweight and cost effective wheel. I know several people that run them.
Regards,
Alan</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was a choice as well! I was looking for split 5 spokes earlier, but the split 6 K1 TS's are a VERY lightweight and cost effective wheel. I know several people that run them.
03-13-2008, 11:45 AM
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Re: (accordselux)
One of the best decisions I ever made was realizing that I needed two sets of wheels for any car I owned. I take the OEM wheels (usually fugly) and mount snow tires on them. I then buy a nice set of aftermarkets and get summer tires for them. I change wheels in my garage at the first hint of snow in the fall and take them off when I think the snow has ended for the season.
That way I optimize performance in the summer and have great rain and snow traction when I need it. Also because I only use each set of tires for about 1/2 as many miles they last longer. My current snows are now on their second car and have 5 seasons use.
Of course if I lived where there was never any snow I might rethink my philosophy :-)
That way I optimize performance in the summer and have great rain and snow traction when I need it. Also because I only use each set of tires for about 1/2 as many miles they last longer. My current snows are now on their second car and have 5 seasons use.
Of course if I lived where there was never any snow I might rethink my philosophy :-)
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Philbert
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04-08-2003 11:23 AM
