mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

I use to be on H-T all the time when I had my Integra. At one point, it was one of the largest build threads on the site forever ago. Alas, times have changed! Now I've moved countries and live in Nicaragua. With the pandemic garbage going on, I decided public transportation was no longer for me for a plethora of reasons.
So, I purchased a car...

Please welcome Picante to Honda Tech!

How I got her.

Lip immediately came off.


So yeah, She's a 2007 5 Speed Civic LX with 109k. Believe it or not, thats kinda high miles in Nicaragua. Oh the stories I can tell about buying a car here. It's SO different than in the states. I suppose if anyone is interested, I could detail the process. It's needlessly complicated, exacerbated by absolute incompetence of people. But anyway...
I'll use this thread to keep up with the things that I do to her, which won't be much as I simply don't have access to lots of cool stuff here. I mean, I DO but it's so much more expensive and hard to find.

Anywho's, I'm glad to be back on Honda Tech

mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

DIY: Fuel pump kill switch
Tools Needed
- Flat head screw driver
- Test light
- Wire
- Switch
- Butt connectors
- Tape
- Wire stripper
- Wire crimp tool
- 10mm Socket with extension
- Drill with like a 1/4 bit or a sharp knife.
- A friend to help

So I didn't take a ton of pictures, but it's a really simple to do. I did this as another layer of security, since the previous owner said he had two keys, but couldn't find the spare. So, I dunno if he's being evil or not. This fixes that problem

Here we go!

Step one - Remove back seat and determine where you want your switch
I decided I wanted it easy to reach but out of the way. I mean, if somebody breaks into my car, who's gonna look for a kill switch to the fuel pump? Nobody. I decided to stick it kinda under the dash, on the center console. I'll have a pic further down.
Now, there's not pic of the rear seat removal but there is only one 10mm bolt to remove. Here's a link to a video on how to do just that.

Step two - Isolate fuel pump wire
Use your test light to find the wire. Have a friend turn the ignition off and on while you test the wires. In my case (and probably the same with all 8th gen civics, I'm not sure) it was the dark green wire.



Step 3 - Make sure you cut the right stuff
Once you have determined for a certainty you have the correct wire isolated (test light will turn off and on with the key, cut the wire. The car SHOULD start, then promptly die. If it does this, you're good to go. Go ahead and strip the wire. Now, what I did is temporarily wire in the switch just to check and make sure the switch was good, which is shown in the pic. Flipping it on, turn the ignition. If it doesnt crank, then flip the switch the other way. It should crank. If it doesn't, you've got a bad switch. Go get another! But more than likely you'll be fine.

Step 4 - Run your wire, remove center console
Take off your shifter **** and just pull up on the little piece thats holding your shifter boot on. It pops up. This gives you access to the area where you will install your switch. Now you can worry about your wiring.
I decided it was too much trouble to pull the center console, so I had purchased enough wire to run it wherever I wanted, which ended up being along the carpet on the drivers side. The panels pull up easy enough, just be sure not to break any tabs. If you want a little more room, there is a tb you use a flat head screwdriver to pop up by the throttle pedal. This allows you to have a little more room when drilling your hole for the switch.

I ran the wire under the carpet below the pedals so a truly invisible touch and ran some excess wire into the center console.

Tuck everything away nice and neat

Step 5 - Mount your switch.
This is easy enough! If you have a drill, then drill your hole where you want it to be. I tried to put it high enough where it's unseen when you're sitting in the seat, but still accessible. I didn't have a drill because cordless stuff is expensive in Nicaragua , so I used a sharp knife to make the hole. Worked perfectly.

Nice and flush

I'm ok with this spot

Step 6 - Connect your butt connectors, tape/butt connect everything up nicely.
This is kinda self explanatory. Use butt connectors and crimps to put everything on nice, and finish it it some good tape. Use some Tesa Tape if you like so it doesn't get sticky once it gets hot and melts.

Mnnn, so nice.

After the wire is run, put it all back together!

Step 7 - Test it out!
Once your wire is run, do a quick test to make sure it all still works, which it should .And congrats! You now have an extra layer of security. yeah, if somebody REALLY wants your car they can tow it away, but thats not really an issue here at all. People are opportunistic, so anything to deter them and make it harder is better (that works for anywhere really).

SO yeah, it was pretty easy. All basic stuff really, but sometimes people still have questions.
Sorry for not taking enough pics, next time I will. I actually wasnt thinking about making a build thread when I was doing this earlier, but hey! Now I have one.

Next up is basic maintenance: I'm pretty sure the spark plugs have NEVER been changed. The rear struts are shot and it has a very small power steering leak that needs addressed.
Also, she has the factory speakers which suck, so she'll be getting the upgrades there along with a subwoofer/amp install

Enj0y!