Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

hydr0 trans in a cable car! any problems wit the hasport kit? my friend has to adjust his everytime he drives the car. he got the correct cable too i think its 1990 integra one.

88ED8

Nope, no problems.

rhd-jon

iTrader: (1)

heres mine almost done

phunhaus

Yes, I speak from personal experience.

Yes, but in some cases some people would like to have a SAFE alternative. I'm just saying it's safe and reliable. Price and aesthetics is something different.

Something like the MC end of this:



Those are OEM flare nuts on the MC end and you can use them on the proportioning valve as well.

"Cleaner" is a matter of opinion. When I think "clean" I think simple looking despite the system complexity. Not using a sleeve nut, sleeve tube, and AN adapter where I can use the stock tube nut doesn't make it cleaner to me. To some people I can see where it would look cleaner or more cohesive to the look of the car but to me it's cluttered and excessive. Happily, people see and appreciate things differently. That's what makes the world a great place . . . as long as people respect that right.

^^Also something to consider.^^ Another idea in my head was taking out a leak-joint possibility. As you add adapters and converters and intersecting points you invariably add another place to find a leak. Again, "clean" to me means "simplicity." "Simplicity" in this case means adding less junctions and less possibilities for a leak (however slight they may be).

BrandonRyan

I went with full steel braided for a few reasons.

1. I had never made flares before. I have purchased all the tools and tried my best. The bending/flaring process did not turn out the way i wanted. I was not confident with the flares. I would always be wondering if i did it right. Thinking in my head.. if this fails when im 300miles away from home.. I'm screwed.

2. I did not want hard lines inside my cabin. I never knew what i was going to add inside or need to move. I knew with steel braided i can tuck, hide, move and even step on and that would create no problems for me. It was more of a ... Sure thing.

3. Cost. Total cost in my steel braided lines was $200.00 Many people pay $100.00 just for the small lines that attach from the fender wells to the calipers. ( i had planned on already doing that anyways) so spending a extra 100$ and saving a few hours worth of time, and being able to drive the car without wondering "did that flare seem a little sharp on that 1 edge?.... Is it going to fail? Is it going to leak and mess up my paint? seemed like money well spent.

Side note:

If i could bend lines, flare them with confidence and get them to look like other peoples on here. i would do it without a doubt. But i tired, failed and found a alternative to having failing flares, and horrid bent hard lines.

brxtacy

iTrader: (1)

ive got maybe, $150 in all my fittings, and another $35 in hardline. not that expensive if ya ask me.....but im sure you can get braided that cheap too. and like due said, its all opinion based. i dont like braided because you cant accurately control where to line lays out. with hardline i can bend it how i want. and i like the look of AN better. but, the 10mm stock fittings do reduce the amount of joints in the lines. so it all comes down to personal preference.

g2_teg_

wow. only $200? what was your shopping list?

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

Anyone happen to have about 6ft of -10 Earl's Pro Lite line they would like to sell? I have ~3 of -10 braided line that I have decided not to use for oil return and catch can drain back that I can also include on my part. If so, please PM me.

Hope this is not considered "thread jacking".

TIA!

g2_teg_

i have some -6 AN hose that i can sell if anyone is interested.

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

same here 15ft of Russell -6 line brand new

BrandonRyan

2 32in lines =40$
4 18in lines = 40$
2 8in lines = 18$
6 reducer bolts = 12$
6 an bulkheads = 30$
2 banjo = $15
2 conjunction nuts $10

Few bucks extra for me forgetting something im sure.



The Ridgid tool to do the flares When i attempted the hardlines was $125
The Snap-on Tube Bender was $85
The Snap-on Tube Cutter was $20

^ Didn't need any of those tools when doing the steel braided. (other then flaring the 2 rear hard lines)

D Ro 47

Anyone have have any sizes for shrink wrap and expandable sleeving? Havent got a chance to look at my harness. Looking for lengths mostly, hard to judge, any help would be great.

TheSauceSpot

Where can i find the black hose with the red/blue/whatever color in it as well... what company makes that? I didnt see it on the earls site.

mugen mj5

anyone have pictures of em1 prop valve inside their cabin but used ss braided lines? im trying to figure out the degree on each hose end fitting to and from prop valve/bulkheads. thanks in advance guys. reason why, i need second opinion from you guys with experience using ss braided lines.

Linh.

russell

em2allstar

Clean design on the valve cover and sick as tuck!!!!

em2allstar

Sick a K series tuck!!!!

[Ennis_D]

iTrader: (1)

FYI: The Russell's Pro Classic Black Hose is cheaper on Summit than the Earl's Pro Lite is through AN Plumbing. At least for a 6ft -10 section.

My order from AN Plumbing was 6ft -10 Pro Lite line + Earl's -10 Black Cap and my total with shipping came to be $71.49. I do live in SC though and I believe AN Plumbing is in CA.

A Russell's -10 cap + 6ft -10 Pro Classic line from Summit would have been $66.78. Wish I would have known who made the black line with the blue ticks in it

E.Honda

Ok I am not supposed to critique anyones stuff here cause some of you get bent and and can't handle it. But I am seeing a nice looking set-up here with this awful tape job only inches away from the header. Maybe your not done. Looks like something else is camped out on the header, a hose or more wires. lol...Wrap em in header wrap and aluminum foil... That was a joke.. I am guessing that there are things that are not hooked up and that harness is just there for the moment.



I think you should swap sides on your remote battery posts so you don't get someone with a cheap bobo set of cable arcing on your brake booster. Why not just run the ground to the block instead of having that terminal? I have clamped many cables on motors and brackets versus the negative terminal.

You planning on putting the p/s res where it is sitting? Have you thought about a universal one? Would look better IMO. I thought about boxing a res into the front frame horn. It would just have the hoses connect to what looked to be the frame. You could even run the hoses to the underside of the frame.


Looks nice.

E.Honda

Mr. Em1

iTrader: (1)

stop telling everybody their bays suck man gosh, im gonna cry if you keep doin it lol jp!
hey ehonda do you have any pics of that ps setup you were just talking about? thats sounds interesting!

mt23vtecbb2

thanks guys. yea i look at the pics when i got the lude stock (7 years ago) there was tons of crap in there over the years things got moved or removed.

and it funny out of all thing the fans bother you that much. with an oil cooler, over flow, and the hids im running there is no room for them in front and there pullers, its like saying it would be cleaner with no header or intake. to me some things need to be where thay go. in needs to be super clean but above all function, just my opinion. but your welcome to yours.

E.Honda

No pics. Sorry. It was a thought I had a while back. It would be rather easy to do. Ha,,,I did not say his bay sucked..

TheSauceSpot

Thank you for the response on this.. Russell does make hose like that, but I dont think its made for Fuel Lines.. I should have been more specific.

The only hose i found for fuel with a color tracer in it, and in AN sizes is the Russel ProClassic with the Blue tracer.. Im looking for the black hose with red tracer.

If anyone could steer me in the right direction, much appreciated!

flatblack-h22

where can i get a odyssey battery locally? or an alternative one

Curtis

shame so many people have copied most of the design idea now ill be coming up with a different design when it comes out again