Bently_Coop

siblues- from looking at the Hardware 909 page and the downstars page I would be more inclined to go with downstar simply for cost effective reasons. You may also look into something like Fastenal as well. Can pretty much find most bolts needed.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I found all the bolts but they can only be bought in quantity even though the quantities needed are small it starts to add up.The problem is getting the machined washers in the required sizes.I am most likely going to go with the downstar stuff since 909 emailed me and the washers alone are 75 bucks and thats not including the bolts.My total will be close to three hundred for wwhat I need.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

This is kind of a misleading statement. It's not that cut and dry.

As far as being "stronger" Zinc plated bolts are usually made of a lower carbon steel that has an ultimate strength that is less than stainless. The big difference being that they are also more ductile which means that they will give a bit before they fail. stainless, while being stronger, tens to be a bit more brittle and will fail more abruptly if it is loaded above its yield strength. In either case, we're mostly talking valve cover nuts and fender bolts here, so it really doesn't matter either way. These aren't highly stressed parts unless you're putting them on with the big arm. Torque rating for a 6x1.0mm bolt is around 8ft*lbf.

As far as the finish, the zinc plating is whats known as a "sacrificial" coating. This means that the coating itself is reactive and will corrode, protecting the metal below it from from corroding. Depending on the coating, it may eventually form a totally non-reactive layer that protects the base metal from corrosion... not unlike how copper turns green with patina... but some coatings "wear out" and eventually allow the base metal to start corroding. Stainless, on the other hand, is naturally less reactive and does not corrode as much or as fast. This is the main reason that its usually sold uncoated. It will eventually corrode a little though, and this corrosion attacks the base metal directly due to the lack of coating.

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Very informative post I did a bit of reading on the subject regarding some other stuff a while back.The bolts I am looking to replace are the motor mount bolts and a few chassis bolts.The fender and chassis bolts arent a big deal but the motor mount bolts on a 600 plus motor kinda worry me due the vibration associated with hasport mounts and everything else that goes on.I was leaning towards stainless hardware but it seems that neither of the two companies offer stainless bolts and I am guessing its due to the big price difference.The 909 washers are stainless and a much nicer design but they cost as much as the whole downstar kit so I am going with the aluminum washers from DS.

zccivicex

iTrader: (1)

got my intake manifold and wiring harness on today...still alot left to do tho (sorry for cell phone pic)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dustinv86/6933501903/

sintype

^ lookin' good.

ej1 rep

wrinkle spray paint, I heated it with heat gun to make it wrinkle.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I used that stuff on mine too. Came out way better than expected. I apprehensively cured it in my oven, ended up not stinking things up at all. I suspect that the people who have problems with smell are doing it with paint that hasn't totally dried or are over cooking it.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure about all that. I've used it on 4 or 5 valve covers and some random pieces here and there plus my charge pipes. It stinks like hell every time. If you read the directions on the can it says to bake in an oven for 25 minutes on like 300 degrees. You're not supposed to let it dry first. The heat is what wrinkles it up. It will do it on it's own but gets a better result with heat.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Fair enough. Maybe I just got lucky. Came out perfect, no stink

DexDeLaSol

im currently ding a wiretuck (on a non-honda tho) and removed the brake booster and cilinder/clutch cilinder. not putting them back aswell. Anyone got some pics of under dash shots how they did it? lines etc arent a problem, more the location of the reservoirs/cilinders. i was thinking of using a pedalbox

ej1 rep

Yeah I have done the oven before, I prefer the heat gun because you can direct your attention to areas that might not be wrinkling.

95ejjj

This is how I planned to do mine. How long did you heat it for with the heat gun? Looks great.

ej1 rep

I also had two propane heaters pointed at it. But is was 35 degrees out. I just kept heating until maximum wrinkle.

95ejjj

Alright thanks.

b20_EM1

Quick shot of the bay....

DarryCar

^^^That's pretty!

PaddingtonBear

93egallmotor

i need a little help here guys.

i just finished my tuck. relocated the battery to the trunk as well. when i went to start it for the first time, the fuel pump primed like normal, and all the clutster lights and interior lights were working properly. so i primed the fuel system two to three times( lines were new and dry), and as soon as i switched the ign from on to start i lost all power in the i entire vehicle. now i cannot figure this out. i checked the main battery 80 amp fuse and the ign fuse, as well as the ecu fuse and they are all good......im stumped guys help me out, need to figure this crap out!

peterbuilt

it could be a ground problem i had a similer problem and thats what it turned out to be

Bently_Coop

Is your battery charged? Or ground problem like stated above.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

I asked him about the battery when he called me. Said it was reading 12v on the meter. Also mentioned grounds and he said all 3 are there. Might need to sand them down since its fresh paint.

hybridmiklo

same thing happened to me. I found that the starter was cracked and not grounding to the engine. Its going to be a ground problem. What my problem would do is fizzle everytime i hooked up the battery cables. So disconnect something and reconnect the batt cables to see if it was gone

93egallmotor

i see what everyone is saying about the grounds, ill try that out tomorrow. im just stumped as to why everything worked at first, then after the first crank it just died.....

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

If you didn't have a clean metal to metal contact on your battery ground it may have arced a bit when you pulled starter current through it and oxidized the connection and/or burned the paint right there, making enough resistance to render the circuit open. It happened to me once. I would start at the battery ground since everything went dead.