PearlsOwner

1990 Accord Ex
I will start by saying I hate electrical. Electrical issues are my kryptonite. Whats a good manual to get that has decent wiring diagrams. Dont care if it is a actual book or downloaded. I have a hayne book but we all know what we think of that book. I used to use Chiltons years ago working in the garage before they switched to a computer based program. I was told that haynes bought them so they are not worth even looking at.??
Basically car died the other day after having the key on for like 5-10 mins. I jumped it and no problems. Took it out for a ride and parked it for 15 or so minutes and it wouldnt start. After it deciding to start I got it home and put the multi-meter on it. Running it was charging at 13.6 volts(not really liking that) New Alt and battery is like 8 months old. I shut it off and slowly watched as it was draining. I pulled the negative cable off and ran the test light between the neg battery terminal and the neg cable and the light came on. Started pulling fusses out one at a time and got to (top right looking at the window under the hood) a 7.5 amp fuse that says (backup) and radio under it. It runs my clock, radio and seat belts. What I found was with it all together the windows work for the first hour or so after taking the key out. Soon as I pull that fuse the problem goes away. The windows work with key on but not with the key off or out like it does with that fuse in. Why is that.?? Also when I pull the fuse with the test light between the cable and battery it takes a good 3 or so seconds for the light to go off.
Dont think this wiring issue is the no start issue but it is something that needs attention. When it wouldnt start, it wouldnt crank, just one click and done and of course it will start so diagnosing the no start is going to be a pain.
Again any help, any starting circuit, charging circuit and or fuse box to diagrams or ideas or know what you are talking about to help with these issues are appreciated.!!!!

MAD_MIKE

Make sure all battery connections are clean and tight. Verify the ground cables are connected, clean and tight. For the window thing, on the CD chassis this is normal. Turn the car off and it allows one to close any windows they may have forgotten.

Did you go to the TechAuto website? That will cover everything from ignition switch>main relay>ignition issues.

holmesnmanny

Everything is normal operation except for the car not starting. This is probably simply the starter solenoid bad. Pull one from the junk yard.

I have the ex and my windows still work even with the key out after the car is turned off until the doors are opened. Normal.

The backup fuse will draw amps as this is the ecu, and clock etc etc working after the car is off. Normal.

PearlsOwner

Pulled the main and tested good. However like stated car does start right now.
Windows never worked with key off or out in the 2 plus years I had it. Just to make sure I wasnt nuts I asked my sister who owned it for 3 or so years before me. I do like it better this way if its not effecting the car, notorious for leaving the windows down and then it rains. Went to my '04 and those dont go down either. Just replaced the neg cable coming off the battery along with the little one going to the inner finder. Cables are clean and were tight. They do have the "after market" ends on them, not a big fan of them, neg is new and pos may need to be replaced. I dont use them longer then a few years if I dont have to. Do need to get it back up on the jack and get under it just to check other grounds. One thing the haynes list #24 along with the radio and clock is A/T control unit(5 speed so not needed) & PGM-FI elect control unit. Doesnt list the seat belts which it does run. However I was thinking it had to have power for radio memory and clock memory and even the belts when the doors are opened. Even if that is the case it is using to much power, let it sit for two days and battery was drained enough not to start. I think I am going to take the battery down to the garage and have a load test done on it and same with the alt as I dont like it pushing only 13.6 volts. One thing I didnt think to do was run it with everything on to see what the alt is pushing then.
Ill go back to that site, was thinking ignition or maybe hoping as I have to get in there to R&R the light switch. Anyway Ive read that if it is the ignition switch it would stall which its not doing. As for the no start it does sound like a starter issue. This has the solenoid on it but there still has to be a way to test it. I would go get one but I rather not just throw money at something that may not be the issue. Funds are starting to get limited as I have to get back to the repairs I started last fall on my truck so I can finally finish that as well.

holmesnmanny

not sure if you got a stick..if you do obviously you can push start it to bypass the starter and verify

holmesnmanny

Now that I think of it I suppose the windows operating like that could be related to my alarm install I had done.

PearlsOwner

Yes, Sorry it is a stick @holmesnmanny also a 2 door
Not sure what the fuse #24 has to do with the windows, but if I pull it for 2 seconds and then put it back in the windows wont work with key out until I put the key back in and turn to the on position and then take it out.
She has had other small electrical issues. The break lights all stopped except one. To get a sticker, was 3 months overdue, I just ran from one light to the next to the next.
Figures its raining and going to for the next few days. I guess that could be a good thing, I may be able to do some reading and figure out a plan rather than just rip into it.

Lost Again

Are you getting voltage to the small wire on the starter solenoid when you try to start the car?