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stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

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Old 03-10-2011, 12:16 PM
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Default stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

anyone ever try it yet? think it'll do much? and arent F23 rods like really crappy?
Old 03-10-2011, 04:13 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

yeah some call it a G23 vtec Frankenstein... H22 head on a F23 motor. As far as the rods... i here there alright. My friend has around 10lbs boost on his f23
Old 03-10-2011, 05:08 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by BParka12
yeah some call it a G23 vtec Frankenstein... H22 head on a F23 motor.
He's referring to installing the longer stroke crank of the F23s 97mm vs the H23s 95mm into the H23s block. Not just the H head onto the F block 'G' swap. Dunno if there is any measurable power difference with such a slight gain in stroke of 2mm.
Old 03-15-2011, 10:02 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

How would F23 rods be crappy compared to H series rods? Its the same material fool.

This might help you:

http://www.zealautowerks.com/hfseries.html
Old 03-16-2011, 12:20 AM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by Balwin
Its the same material fool.
That doesn't mean much. If one rod is built thicker or stronger than the other, they both could have the same length but one may not be as stout as the other. Oldsmobile 260 and 403 V8s use the same length rod. But a 403 rod is considerably stronger than the 260s, they are both made out of forged steel.
So the H23 and F22 have the same rod length, that doesn't demonstrate the strength differences.
Old 03-16-2011, 01:19 AM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

H23 rods are stronger than F23 rods. Both same material however the H23 rods are actually made stronger. The molecules in the H23 rods are closer and straighter together than the F23 rods. When it comes to strength in metal, the way the molecules are arranged is everything
Old 03-16-2011, 06:25 AM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Why bother putting an F23 crank and rods in an H23 block, the F23 block is the same creature. Except that the F23 has iron sleeves. Your not going to gain anything out of it other than making an FRM sleeved F23. Might as well just do the H23 head swap (G23) at least you have the iron sleeves so you can work with aftermarket pistons if you want.

Most of the guys who have gone with a larger stroke usually end up going with a 100mm stroke. I think it is basically becuase the 2mm really doesn't make that big of a difference in the long run??? You should PM Scott, 2point6 or PirateMcFred. I think they have used something similar in the past.

MadMike, the H23/F22 rods are one in the same. 13210-PT3-A00 Not just the same length. OP is talking about H23 vs F23 anyway...lol But I agree about the material vs design/stout factor. The F23 looks like a slightly slimmer rod than the H23/F22???

Last edited by GhostAccord; 03-16-2011 at 10:06 AM.
Old 03-16-2011, 01:25 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

The rods are just slightly slimmer yes.
Old 03-16-2011, 02:57 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by mavvrik
H23 rods are stronger than F23 rods. Both same material however the H23 rods are actually made stronger. The molecules in the H23 rods are closer and straighter together than the F23 rods. When it comes to strength in metal, the way the molecules are arranged is everything
Can you prove this? Not being a smartass.. just interested.
Old 03-17-2011, 04:06 AM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by Balwin
Can you prove this? Not being a smartass.. just interested.
i second that. what about the manufacturing process differs between the two rods?
Old 03-19-2011, 06:52 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

its cool dude, didnt seem you were being a smartass. But to answer your question, if you were to get the two rods, slice them in half, and take a microscope and look at the metal you would know exactly what i mean. The straighter the molecules are in a row, vertically and horizontally, the stronger the metal is going to be. Thats exactly why people will have parts cryogenicly treated--to do just that.

I dont know why exactly it was done however the molecules in the H rods compared to the F rods are relatively straighter under a microscope
Old 03-19-2011, 09:57 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by mavvrik
I dont know why exactly it was done however the molecules in the H rods compared to the F rods are relatively straighter under a microscope
Are you talking H22 rods vs F series? Because the H23 rods and the F22A & F22B rods are the same part number. Or are you referring to the F23 rods when you say F series?
Old 03-19-2011, 10:14 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

F23 Rods
Old 03-19-2011, 10:15 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Gottcha
Old 03-23-2011, 12:08 PM
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Default Re: stroked H23A using F23 crank/rods

Originally Posted by GhostAccord
Why bother putting an F23 crank and rods in an H23 block, the F23 block is the same creature. Except that the F23 has iron sleeves. Your not going to gain anything out of it other than making an FRM sleeved F23. Might as well just do the H23 head swap (G23) at least you have the iron sleeves so you can work with aftermarket pistons if you want.

Most of the guys who have gone with a larger stroke usually end up going with a 100mm stroke. I think it is basically becuase the 2mm really doesn't make that big of a difference in the long run??? You should PM Scott, 2point6 or PirateMcFred. I think they have used something similar in the past.

MadMike, the H23/F22 rods are one in the same. 13210-PT3-A00 Not just the same length. OP is talking about H23 vs F23 anyway...lol But I agree about the material vs design/stout factor. The F23 looks like a slightly slimmer rod than the H23/F22???
well im just workin with what i got so far. what i own and is working on already is an H23 bottom end using H22 type S pistons and H22A4 cyl head. but the F23 crank and rods was just a random idea i had in mind and was curious to know if it would work or even be worth the effort. but being aware there is only about a 2mm difference in stroke height i am guessing not. chances are all i will do is purchase a set of strengthened H23/F22 rods and bolts to keep the bottom end up at the same pace as the cyl head lol. Honestly im not lookin to get but 190whp out of it.
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