dujac

i've got a 1990 lx (manual transmission) that is has had an issue with randon 'no starts', for over 4 years

i can't find any reason for this, not weather, not battery, not anything

every time i take it to a mechanic, i end up paying for something to be fixed, but the problem eventually comes back

i only drive about once a week and it seems like if i only try to start it once a week, it may not start

so, i start it every day and let it run for a few minutes, it idles at around 2000 rpms at first then slows to under 800 after a couple of minutes

what do i need to say to a mechanic get him to fix this?

L2ILL

This is the infamous main relay. It's tucked up under the steering wheel behind the dash. You should just replace it...it can be resoldered but at this point I'd bet large it's your problem and well given the time its plagued u....its time to mangle it and replace it.

poorman212

Before replacing the main relay, on a guess. I'd suggest testing......when it won't start "what is going on"? Does the motor spin? Does it spin and just won't stay running?

L2ILL

Random no start...suggest there is nothing wrong with the starter...altho its possible the solenoid on it could be bad he's mentioned it plagues him for years...so doesnt rule out the solenoid but makes it less likely. No mention of it not staying running. just randm no start.

gtaylor318

mine will start but after a few turns of the key...and when it does start white smoke will puff from muffler only when starting... 1991 honda accord dx 200,000 miles. I have had a new battery, alternator, water pump, timing belt, plugs, and replaced the starter. NEED HELP PLEASE maybe my problem 2 (main relay)

Slopoke

When it wont start, does it just crank, but not fire? If so, its most likely your main relay. They cost about $70 from the dealer and you can easily replace it yourself.

A simple way to confirm this is, during the time it wont start, have someone else turn the key to the "ON" position(not start), while you've got your head in the trunk. When the key is turned to the "ON" position, you should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on for a few seconds and then turn off. If it is not doing this, the main relay is your problem.


This is normal. The idle drops down after it reaches operating temperatures.

Not the main relay. You have a mechanical issue.

dujac

apologies for the delayed response

Slopke - i'll say it turns over normally, but doesn't start up

glad to know the part isn't expensive, but it has been starting most often lately, so i'm going to wait

but, if it goes into another cycle of being difficult, i plan to have it fixed

thanks for the trunk test idea, i'll try it and see what it sounds like, next time it won't start

poorman - it spins but doesn't crank up

L2ILL - my guess is that about 95 times out of 100 it stays running once it has started

bzmotoninja1983

Fuel pump strainer? I had one that was hard as a brick.

justinsbg

Definitely check the Main Relay.

361 accord

you've had this problem for over 4 years?
EPIC PROCRASTINATION

next time when it is acting up, hit the relay with a wrench a couple of times

the idle revving high then settling down is normal, its supposed to do that from a cold start, usually at 1500rpm though

Laxzative

I just recently fixed a problem with my car not starting due to it getting very hot out, it was the main relay so i will elaborate and maybe it will help.

when my car did not start-

if you twist your key to number two so the oil pressure and battery pop up you will hear a click, and you will also hear your fuel pump hum very softly. if you can hear it it is most likely the main relay.

the main relay stopped working for me at numerous times.

-when it was hot outside ( the soldering was cracked from it being old so the heat would widen the gaps causing a failure)

-after it had been running for a while and you turn it off ( it wouldn't start for 15 minutes after you turn it off)

-after stalling your car numerous times.


Its very easy to take the main relay out, pop it out of its case, and just resolder the whole circuit board. if you google it there are already tutorials.

i have a 1991 honda civic and for me it was under my change compartment in a shroud which is difficult to get to ( i had to lay upsidedown with my head to the pedal feet to the ceiling.)

dujac

after several years of taking the car to mechanics and having them fix something other than the 'main relay', i found a you tube video demonstrating the part, showed it to a mechanic and had the car fixed

L2ILL

Now go back and club all the rest to death !!

Bad_dude

Here you go buddy, for the main relay. If you are handy with the soldering iron, then reflow the soldering joints should fix it. Much cheaper than $70. Or junkyard or even Ebay, under $30. Or do what I did with my video card. Put it in the oven for 8-10 minutes at 385C. I am not sure if the main relay is lead free but that should reflow the joints.
http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.p...ght=main+relay

Bad_dude

You have 2 different problems, but you should start your own thread as your problems are unrelated to the OP:
1) The turning key issue, the ignition switch might be bad. I would replace it before it shuts the engine off in the middle of the freeway.

2) Smoke from the muffler when starting: If it's in the morning then it's probably nothing serious. You are burning oil and it does this in the morning. Check the plugs for this. In morning you also have condensation in the pipe so if it smoke for while until warm up then it's condensation. You could also have a blown head gasket. Check the oil for coffee cream look or check the coolant for oil presence. The best way to be sure is a compression test all cylinders. Check coolant level to see if it goes down fast.