slmmdnissan

I tried the screw driver in the flywheel teeth thing over the weeekend on my 96 lx. The screwdriver broke in half and I can't find the side thats inside the transmission.

If I was you, don't do this and just get the removal tool. The lack of drama from a mistake like mine is worth it by itself.

Matt

omeara7

awe sorry to hear that. My friend's Grand Prix GTP had a broken starter and a bunch of pieces of metal broke off into the flywheel casing. We used a strong vacuum cleaner to suck out most of the pieces. One of those magnet sticks might help too, just move it around in there until you find it.

TouringAccord

Sorry to hear that. That is the reason why I won't recommend that way to anyone. Now you need to remove the tranny so you can find that broken end. Not terrible but deffinately more work than needed to be done. Hope it all works out for you. Also, it probably wouldn't be the best idea to drive the car with that broken screw driver still in there.

and welcome to Honda-Tech

matix

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea I think I'm gonna buy that tool just to be safe. Thanks for the advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You dont need this tool. The screwdriver in the flywheel is just as safe.Just make sure you use a big screw driver,and it wont break lol. Spend that extra money on a new water pump, or seals. You should replace timing belt,water pump and seals while you have it all open anyways.Just my 2 cents you dont have to listen to me though.

hillbillybob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no prob

oh, forgot to mention. I couldn't find anywhere else that sold that tool other than this place and the dealer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just called 2 local dealers who wouldn't sell me the tool. They are more than happy to change my timing belts if i take the car in there......

BryonC17

Does anyone have one of those tools I can borrow? I was going to try the old screw driver method until I read the post above.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hillbillybob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just called 2 local dealers who wouldn't sell me the tool. They are more than happy to change my timing belts if i take the car in there......</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can buy it from the dealer. I went to a local Honda dealer here and they didn't know what I was talking about until I brought them the part number from the Helms manual. Then they said they would sell it to me but it would cost something like $80 and I would have to wait like 2 weeks. So I just bought it from The Tool Warehouse. It worked great. The best thing is, as long as you stay with Hondas, this tool will work on almost all of them. If you want, I can look up the Honda part number so you can take that to the dealer.

arielb1

Frankly, I found this thread to be very interesting.

First, thanks to all of you. You all educate people like me. I for one want to learn. Special thanks to AccordTouring for his professionalism. I appreciate the link to the tool.

I have a 96 Civic EX with 78Kmiles and there is a very small drip coming from the water pump area.

Helms manual says a weeping drip from the water pump is normal, but others say it is not. I was told to change the timing belt and water pump to be safe. I really want to learn how to change the belts. I am just scared...however, I have most of the tools already.

After reading this thread, I am more educated now. However, I am left with questions hopefully someone can take the time to explain to us newbies.

1. What is a cheater bar? I bought a breaker bar recently, but do not know about a cheater bar.

2. Can I support the engine with a 2X4 and jack placed underneath the oil pan? If I remove one of the engine mounts, I would think the oil pan would cave in from the weight of the engine.

3. Someone mentioned to change all the seals. The helms does not point out the seals to change. Specifically, can someone list the seals so I can pick them up with the timing belt, AC belt, Power steering belt, water pump and liquid gasket...did I miss anything?

4. Is getting the crankshaft bolt off the hardest part? Any other issues that needs particular attention?

Thanks all and good KARMA....I will need some too.

TouringAccord

no problem, but it's TouringAccord

anyways,
1: A cheater bar is a hollow bar that you slide over the end of the rachet or breaker bar to get more leverage.

2: Yes, just be gentle and careful. You should be fine.

3: I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to change the seals. I didn't change any seals when I did mine though. I changed the water pump, water pump gasket, timing belt, balancer shaft belt, ps belt, alternator belt.

4: Yes, the crank pulley bolt is the hardest part of the job. Once thats done it all done hill.

You said you have the Helms right? If so, just follow the steps descibed in there and you should be good.

Good luck, hope everything goes smoothly for you.

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Helms manual says a weeping drip from the water pump is normal, but others say it is not. I was told to change the timing belt and water pump to be safe.</TD></TR></TABLE>A couple drops will probably not hurt much, but all it's gonna do is get worse with time. I'd say if it leaks at all, get ready to replace at a convenient time. Meanwhile watch it closely in case it suddenly gets worse. Since you're gonna replace your timing belt, I can almost guarantee your pump WON'T last until your next timing belt change.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. What is a cheater bar? I bought a breaker bar recently, but do not know about a cheater bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>Steel pipe, maybe 4 feet long. The hardware store looked at me kinda funny when I said I didn't want the ends threaded... Use it on your breaker bar, not your ratchet. You might break the ratchet mechanism.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Can I support the engine with a 2X4 and jack placed underneath the oil pan? If I remove one of the engine mounts, I would think the oil pan would cave in from the weight of the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>That's what I do. The pan's strong enough - just don't drop the engine down onto the jack.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Someone mentioned to change all the seals. The helms does not point out the seals to change. Specifically, can someone list the seals so I can pick them up with the timing belt, AC belt, Power steering belt, water pump and liquid gasket...did I miss anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>Last time I bought a water pump it came with its own gasket. Maybe your valve cover gasket, but that's real easy to change later.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arielb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 4. Is getting the crankshaft bolt off the hardest part? Any other issues that needs particular attention?</TD></TR></TABLE>Read your Helm book. Make sure you understand how to line up the crankshaft & camshaft timing marks. Don't take the timing belt off until you understand that part. But it's really not that difficult.

omeara7

thanks a lot. I'm gonna try heating the crank bolt up to loosen the thread-lock (assuming there is some in there). Nothing else has worked so far, not even the IR 1000 ft/lbs torque impact wrench.

TouringAccord

wow, this thing still hasn't come loose. Best of luck to you. I've heard that heating does help, I just don't understand why since you would figure it to expand because of the heat. But other people have said it's helped them so why not try.

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... not even the IR 1000 ft/lbs torque impact wrench.</TD></TR></TABLE>If it's not getting enough air it's not really making 1000 lbf-ft. If you're using an extension between the gun & the socket that's another loss of torque.

ps... Try packing ice against the pulley until it's nice & cold. Then hold some ice there while you heat ONLY the bolt. Then hit it quickly with the impact wrench, before the temperature has time to equalize.



Modified by JimBlake at 11:29 AM 7/23/2004

omeara7

ok I'll try that freezing/heating technique. Thanks for the suggestions. I haven't really been able to attempt very much because I need to do it when i can go without my car for a couple days.

danz75

I just did my timing belt change on my 98 Accord EX 4cyl. I just had a friend with air tools break the bolt loose and he got it out with hardly any effort. Don't know what type of air tools he has. After that, the bolt was put back on just tight enough so I can drive home to work on the belt.

I do highly recommend that you replace the water pump when you do the timing belt because replacing the water pump would require you to go through all the steps of the timing belt replacement anyway.

I had both pulleys replaced even though they still seemed good. The pulleys did not cost much at all.

Like what everyone's been saying, the job's fairly straightforward if you have the helm manual. The only tricky part I felt was knowing how to set the tensioner. On the first try, the tensioner was too tight which made the engine 'whine', then i loosened the tightening nut and hand turned the crank pulley but i turn it the wrong way, and it became too loose. Luckily for me it didn't skip. finally got it right after my third try.

Let me know if you have any further questions and I will try to help as much as I can.

danz

omeara7

ok thanks a lot for the help. I'm confused with the service hole that you're supposed to insert an extension or drill bit into. Any help with that or explanation on what that is all about? Thanks again-much appreciated.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omeara7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm confused with the service hole that you're supposed to insert an extension or drill bit into. Any help with that or explanation on what that is all about?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, don't quote me here cause I don't have my Helms sitting here in front of me. I know what hole your talking about. Your supposed to stick something in there to hold the rear balancer shaft in place while you do the rest of the timing belt change. First thing I think you have to do is remove the bolt that is in there then you can insert your bolt or drill pit to hold the shaft in place. I think I used a long 6mm bolt if I remember correctly. I used a washer at the end to make sure it didn't go to far in there. If you wondering where it is located, first look at the motor and find the rear balancer shaft gear. Now look at the back of the block, close to the side where the gear of the balancer shaft is at and you should see a bolt slightly below the center of the shaft. So when you insert the bolt or drill you will be inserting it on a slight angle up.

I hope this helped. I don't have my Helms or my motor sitting here to look at and give a better description. So if I lost you let me know or maybe someone else will be able to describe it better.

Also, my F22B1 is just sitting on the engine stand at my moms house. I'll be over there today after work for like 5-10 min, if you would like I can take a couple pictures of the service hole if you're problem is locating it. Let me know.

omeara7

Thank you so much. What happens if you insert the bolt too far and how do you know when you have? If you already took pictures it couldn't hurt to see them. You've been a great help. Thanks again

TouringAccord

damnit, I knew I forgot something. I was in a little hurry and completely forgot, sorry about that.

When I said to make sure you don't stick it in too far, I just meant not to stick it in too the point that you can't get it back out. The head of the bolt I was using could have gone into the hole, so I put a washer on it so it wouldn't. All you need to do is stick it in there far enough so the shaft don't spin anymore. I hope this clears that up.

If you still want those pictures I can take them, I just forgot yesterday. Let me know if you do.

omeara7

oh ok yea that clears things up. No don't get the pictures because I have like 3 different versions of how to change the T-belt and I'm sure I'll be able to find it.

TouringAccord

ok, if you change your mind just let me know. It's no trouble to snap a couple quick pictures.

omeara7

ok thank you so much for all of your help. I might have questions after I get the damn thing off and actually start the changing process. Is there any way of telling if the timing belt has ever been replaced (like a date on the belt a different belt than the factory belt)? I just don't want to change it if I don't have to becaude the belt is in new condition, but I know I should change it to be safe because it might looks new and still break the next day.

TouringAccord

Yeah, I don't think your going to be able to tell or not. I can understand not wanting to change it because it might be new but just think of all this trouble your going through to get it off. Once you get the bolt off that hard part is over. I would just replace it and not worry about it for the next 60-90k miles. You'll rest easier knowing that there is a new belt on there and won't break while your driving to work the next day. As for anymore questions, just fire away. I'm sure someone will be able to answer it and help you out.

omeara7

I do have another question: How low is the engine supposed to drop when I lower it? I undid the driver-side engine-mount and lowered it but it only dropped a little before it was supported by the rear and front mounts. Is lowering the engine needed only to gain access to the crank bolt or does it help with belt removal/re-installation too?

TouringAccord

I think it will just needs to be lowered to get the crank bolt off then the pulley off also. I'm not sure but you should be able to get to everything else the way it sits. I'm not real sure about this though because when I did mine I was fortunate enough to have the motor out.