jvr

Hey, so I'm going to change my spark plugs tomorrow with either denso or ngk plugs, and I'm curious how many of you recommend using anti-seize on the threads.

I know ngk plugs are coated with zinc or something and they say not to use anti-seize, but I also know that the only reason they say that is to prevent people from over-tightening, and I'm thinking the anti-seize will at the worst prevent corrosion, and at best it will prevent the plugs snapping or damaging the aluminum head upon removal.

So, assuming I adjust torque specs to use of anti-seize, is using it good insurance against damaging the head/plugs next time I remove them?

What is the general rule of thumb for adjusting torque specs when using anti-seize?

Honda says 13 ft/lb for plugs, that seems a little loose, no? Is that only for reinstalling usedplugs whose washers are already crushed? Should I use the "1/8 to 1/4 turn past hand tight" for used plugs and "1/2 to 2/3 turn past hand tight" for new plugs rule of thumb, or use a torque wrench? (By hand tight I mean just when the washer contacts the head)

Sorry for the lengthy post on a simple topic... But I'm **** and this seems to be a highly contentious topic. Would love to hear from you Honda gurus (im looking at you, madmike and holmnesmany)

jvr

I forgot to ask something else. I want to test the resistance of my spark plug wires and get some ngk wires if the reading is too high. What should be the upper limit for this test... 1000ohms, or is even that too much? Is consistency more important than high individual readings? Ie, is 800-800-800-800 better than 200-600-800-400?

MAD_MIKE

I used to use anti-seize on plugs, but I haven't recently.
If you are going to be pulling plugs off a hot aluminum head while doing some tuning/testing/checking sure, sparingly use some anti-seize so you do not gall the threads when the engine is hot.
If you are just going to replace a set of plugs and don't plan on looking at them for the next 50K miles, then don't bother.

I usually just hand tighten plugs and go by that calibration. And by hand tighten I mean actually tighten it, not just contact the washer. It needs to crush to seal.
On my lug nuts when I use Anti-seize I usually drop off 10lbs. So if they are supposed to be 90, I'll snug them up to 80 on a torque wrench. But again I have a finely calibrated brain/hand so I'm usually spot on with feel.

Lower resistance is good as that means more spark power is getting to the spark plug. Consistency is good as well, but you are kind of at the mercy of the spark plug wires on that. As long as they are on the low side of the scale you should be alright. If you are really a stickler, measure the resistance of the spark plugs as well, and pair them up with the plug wires for an even distribution of equal resistance of every cylinder.

jvr

Thanks. That last suggestion fits in well with my OCD tendencies, lol. What is the acceptable range for resistance? I've seen recommendations anywhere from 150 ohm/ft to 8k ohm/ft... That's a huge variation