oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
#1
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oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
I'm pretty sure I need to replace my front motor mount (I sure hope it's the one that needs replaced) and I was wondering whether it is worth it to get an oem. I can get one from majestichonda for about $45 with shipping, or I can get an Anchor brand for about $28 with tax. (if I order from majestic I will "save" some on shipping - at least the % for this part - by getting a few other things I planned to get from them soon anyway)
I've read about the anchor brand and I've seen different things in different places. some people claim it's OK, others don't like it, but I'm not finding the detail I want as to WHY.
my two main priorities are longevity and smoothness (less vibration, noise, etc). its not like my car is modded or anything, I just want a nice driving daily driver.
my inclination is the OEM but saving most of $20 seems pretty tempting and I'm wondering if I'm just being a snob about it for no reason.
Thoughts, advice, please?
I've read about the anchor brand and I've seen different things in different places. some people claim it's OK, others don't like it, but I'm not finding the detail I want as to WHY.
my two main priorities are longevity and smoothness (less vibration, noise, etc). its not like my car is modded or anything, I just want a nice driving daily driver.
my inclination is the OEM but saving most of $20 seems pretty tempting and I'm wondering if I'm just being a snob about it for no reason.
Thoughts, advice, please?
#2
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Re: oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
I would stick with the OEM mount... getting one aftermarket mount doesn't seem right to me, and it may cause vibration and whatnot if you're running a different mount.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the 20$, cheaper isn't always better.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the 20$, cheaper isn't always better.
#3
Re: oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
Honda Accord 2001 V6
I had a rough idle until my car warmed up. The front motor mount was broken. I just had it replaced. Aftermarket mounts. Don't know what kind, other than they are oil filled. Now I have a vibration in the steering wheel and front end when I am idling. Had it back in for another look yesterday. I am told the back mount also needs replacing.
My questions are:
How good are these after market mounts?
Should I spend the extra $200 and get Honda mounts?
Do motor mounts "soften" after so many miles?
I would just hate to have the back mount replaced and find out that the steering wheel vibration was from the aftermarket mount.
Thanks
I had a rough idle until my car warmed up. The front motor mount was broken. I just had it replaced. Aftermarket mounts. Don't know what kind, other than they are oil filled. Now I have a vibration in the steering wheel and front end when I am idling. Had it back in for another look yesterday. I am told the back mount also needs replacing.
My questions are:
How good are these after market mounts?
Should I spend the extra $200 and get Honda mounts?
Do motor mounts "soften" after so many miles?
I would just hate to have the back mount replaced and find out that the steering wheel vibration was from the aftermarket mount.
Thanks
#4
MM Gruppe B
Re: oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
If you want to stay OEM yes.
I have used Anchor mounts to replace worn mounts, but I have a 20y.o. Acccord, kind of hard to justify spending ~$300 on a mount in a car that is that old when the Anchor ones are only ~$30 and seem to work just fine.
With solid rubber the mounts may tear, harden, soften, stretch depending on application. Sagging mounts may cause clearance issues, hardened mounts will cause some noise transmisison, soft mounts cause excessive drivetrain movement, and a torn/broken mount will cause a racket.
Liquid filled mounts may leak loosing the dampening ability. This can be just annoyance at idle to excessive movement.
Active mounts that can be changed from fluid type to solid rubber type are used on most Honda automatic cars. The mount itself may be fine but the controls for the mount may no longer function correctly. The fault then causes the mount to stay in the idle/no load configuration where the mount is allowed to 'float' to reduce vibration, but allows excessive movement under load. Or it fails in the loaded configuration which caused excessive vibrations at idle, but feels fine during acceleration.
If it is a vacuum/computer controlled mount, have them verify it is indeed the mount and not the controls that are no longer functioning.
I have used Anchor mounts to replace worn mounts, but I have a 20y.o. Acccord, kind of hard to justify spending ~$300 on a mount in a car that is that old when the Anchor ones are only ~$30 and seem to work just fine.
With solid rubber the mounts may tear, harden, soften, stretch depending on application. Sagging mounts may cause clearance issues, hardened mounts will cause some noise transmisison, soft mounts cause excessive drivetrain movement, and a torn/broken mount will cause a racket.
Liquid filled mounts may leak loosing the dampening ability. This can be just annoyance at idle to excessive movement.
Active mounts that can be changed from fluid type to solid rubber type are used on most Honda automatic cars. The mount itself may be fine but the controls for the mount may no longer function correctly. The fault then causes the mount to stay in the idle/no load configuration where the mount is allowed to 'float' to reduce vibration, but allows excessive movement under load. Or it fails in the loaded configuration which caused excessive vibrations at idle, but feels fine during acceleration.
If it is a vacuum/computer controlled mount, have them verify it is indeed the mount and not the controls that are no longer functioning.
#5
Re: oem vs aftermarket (anchor) motor mounts
If you want to stay OEM yes.
I have used Anchor mounts to replace worn mounts, but I have a 20y.o. Acccord, kind of hard to justify spending ~$300 on a mount in a car that is that old when the Anchor ones are only ~$30 and seem to work just fine.
With solid rubber the mounts may tear, harden, soften, stretch depending on application. Sagging mounts may cause clearance issues, hardened mounts will cause some noise transmisison, soft mounts cause excessive drivetrain movement, and a torn/broken mount will cause a racket.
Liquid filled mounts may leak loosing the dampening ability. This can be just annoyance at idle to excessive movement.
Active mounts that can be changed from fluid type to solid rubber type are used on most Honda automatic cars. The mount itself may be fine but the controls for the mount may no longer function correctly. The fault then causes the mount to stay in the idle/no load configuration where the mount is allowed to 'float' to reduce vibration, but allows excessive movement under load. Or it fails in the loaded configuration which caused excessive vibrations at idle, but feels fine during acceleration.
If it is a vacuum/computer controlled mount, have them verify it is indeed the mount and not the controls that are no longer functioning.
I have used Anchor mounts to replace worn mounts, but I have a 20y.o. Acccord, kind of hard to justify spending ~$300 on a mount in a car that is that old when the Anchor ones are only ~$30 and seem to work just fine.
With solid rubber the mounts may tear, harden, soften, stretch depending on application. Sagging mounts may cause clearance issues, hardened mounts will cause some noise transmisison, soft mounts cause excessive drivetrain movement, and a torn/broken mount will cause a racket.
Liquid filled mounts may leak loosing the dampening ability. This can be just annoyance at idle to excessive movement.
Active mounts that can be changed from fluid type to solid rubber type are used on most Honda automatic cars. The mount itself may be fine but the controls for the mount may no longer function correctly. The fault then causes the mount to stay in the idle/no load configuration where the mount is allowed to 'float' to reduce vibration, but allows excessive movement under load. Or it fails in the loaded configuration which caused excessive vibrations at idle, but feels fine during acceleration.
If it is a vacuum/computer controlled mount, have them verify it is indeed the mount and not the controls that are no longer functioning.
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