charliccs

friend`s, I need some advice

my accord 96 ex coupe with disc brakes in the 4 corners

If I go slow like 5 mph or 10 mph and I push the brake hard they don`t stop fast.

the car will brake eventually but don`t even hit the abs or anything...

If I go in highway it`s brake ok not good but ok, but slow speed I push hard and don`t brake hard...

my civic ex 98 with drum in the rear brake 100 times more hard than my accord... and inmediatly...

any advice is welcome... thank`s

jdowen2

How far are the pads worn? Have you recently done a brake job? Did you bleed them properly?

charliccs

the front pad are good to me:

now the rear are a little bit worn.

since I buy the car 3 month ago I didn`t do anything to the brakes...

I see the brake fluid so dirty...

picture:

jdowen2

You need to flush out the old brake fluid (it's worn out and has lost it's effectiveness)and bleed the system. Also, put a dab of grease on the corners of your pads (where they fit into spring clips) to facilitate smoother operation.

19Accord97

Bad calipers?

netopia

I had the same problem,found out it was a rotting brake hose in the rear.Check all your lines and hose to make sure every thing is ok.

holmesnmanny

You probably just need to bleed out the air in your brakes....I agree with jdowen..the fluid is probably bad and over time the fluid accumulates air bubbles that makes braking less effective.

You should just do a full manual brake fluid flush to each caliper.

charliccs

thank`s for everyone...

I will do the fluid flush very soon I`m waiting for my rear pad... I buy wagner qc537 thermoquiet...

now another question: if the car was leaving time without use can this make stuck the piston caliper?

because the car from 96 and only have 58k miles...

how can I know if the caliper are stuck or not?

Shokurvz

You have to drain the old oil and and replace it obviously and rebleed the system but its already used to the t

charliccs

today I changed the rear brake pads with wagner ceramic thermoquiet, put grease to the pins.

then check the front to grease the pin, the pads look good and found the outside seal broken,

I changed the seal, take out the piston and clean everything... put new fluid in the master cylinder and bleed that side...

I take road and the brake still don`t have power...

If I go slow like 5 mph or 10 mph and I push the brake hard they don`t stop fast.

I don`t know what could be...

please any tip or advice I really apreciatte...

holmesnmanny

There's obviously a leak of some sort there at that piston. I would pull another caliper from the junkyard, if not outright buying a rebuilt one from an auto parts store. It would be important to do this fast as it's not only dangerous to run with a leaking brake system but it is straining the rest of the system to make up for the slack of that caliper not doing any work.

Keep in mind that the caliper brake line bolt and the bleeder bolt need to be fairly tight to work properly.

charliccs

thank you for your answer but is not a leak, It`s wd40 because inside the seal have dirty and I clean with wd40 and I was thinking the piston could be stuck...

I take out the piston and clean it and put new seal and bleed the system westerday...

but still not having good braking... the brake power are the same like before I changed the rear pad

the car not stop fast...

the pedal don`t go to the floor...

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

charliccs, you say you put fluid in the BMC but did you FULLY drain out the old fluid? You should also look to see if fluid is dripping down the booster.

Another thing that can happen is the internal seals of the BMC can go bad and fluid can just seep right past them back into the reservoir, so you don't have a visible leak but the fluid isn't making its way to the calipers.

Personally, I'd change out the BMC (it's ~$120 new from Honda) and then get fresh DOT3 fluid and completely flush out ALL the lines. Keep in mind you need to adjust the plunger on the back of the BMC too. I forgot the brake bleed order, but with ABS I think it's different. You may also want to consider flushing the ABS system.

charliccs

thanks again for your answer...

one hour ago I open the bleed and flush all the fluid in the 4 corner and bleed each wheel until new fluid come out...

the bleed order is:

1.- rear right
2.- front left
3.- rear left
4.- front right

put dot 3 venoco fluid...

the BMC don`t have any sign of leak, the booster is dry too...

test drive the car make a few stops but still don`t stop fast...

the car eventually stop ok... but don`t feel secure because if I go fast and I need to brake fast the car don`t stop like it suppose to do.

I have a civic 98 with drum rear and front disk and the braking is so much powerfull than this accord...

I don`t know if that because the accord have ABS, but no ABS light or problem...

when I push the pedal hard the wheel don`t stop and the ABS don`t hit.

charliccs

I was thinking could be the front brake pad are chinesse and they don`t grab hard to the disk...

what do you think?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Is the pedal mushy or sink before it's gripping?

I personally don't go with aftermarket pads unless they're good (Hawks, StopTech, etc) and usually get OEM. If you want my personal opinion, I'd have the rotors resurfaced if there is enough surface left and pick up some fresh pads.

I'd also swap out the BMC since it's pretty cheap and then bleed those brakes. It could be an internal leak of the BMC or the plunger isn't adjusted properly.

charliccs

yeah I know about the pads but the car I bought like 5 month ago and I don`t know what brand of pad could be installed before I buy the car... the rear pad I changed with wagner, but the front are like new but could be a chinesse brand and don`t have enough friction...

I thinking buying a new front pad...

let me change the front pad and I let you know...

thank you again...

holmesnmanny

if you're certain you have no leaks and you're certain you bled it properly then it can only be the master cylinder is no good

CDStreetSleeper

you said you rebleed all 4 calipers, BUT did you remember to rebleed the brake master cylinder AND the ABS module, if you dont it could result in poor braking power spongy, mushy feeling, i had a Brake master cylinder go out on me a couple months ago, where the problem it would do is if i was stopped at a hill the pedal would slowly sink in, i replaced it. and all i had to do was bleed it from the brake master cylinder and my car had so much stopping power, even MORE when i decided to replace the entire rear wheel bearings/hubs, rotors, and pads, i swear i raced to 100MPH with my cousin in the passenger seat and slammed on my brakes and the car stopped INSTANTLY with no tire screeching, considering i put new front tires on it. just my .02 cents

l1coeea9

How did that work out?

charliccs

thank you for your answer...

I do not bleed the ABS or the master cylinder.

can you tell me how to bleed the master cylinder please?

the ABS have a separate fluid from the master cylinder and I never touch the ABS system... do you think I need to bleed the ABS too?

charliccs

well after install new brake pad`s in my accord the brake power are much better now...

I think the old pad and chinesse or bad quality...

I bought bendix ct-3 d465ct.

now without to effort in the pedal I feel more brake performance...

conclusion: bad or cheap brake pad don`t have the same friction like the good ones...

thank`s to all the help