walker111

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hope ur not using ebay springs are anything too

i SUPPOSE if you are uber careful and w/e hopefully they hold up in a "panic stop" as well as honda brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use autozone rotors and coblat pads on my tracked integra..... they hold up just fine.

slowly slipping away

just curious, how many ppl that have posted on this thread have had actual problems with there drilled/ slotted rotors cracking? I read alot of ppl suggesting blanks with Hawk pads, is that what you use..and if so have you tried diffrent setups? how many diffent products/ combos have you used/ tried? are the suggestions your giving fact, or just opinion based of of what you heard/ read somewhere?

lowered94accord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowly slipping away &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dosent really matter how much HP your car produces, the whole idea behind a drilled/ slotted rotor is to keep the rotor surface cooler therfore resisting break fade-

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So your saying if you have 800WHP itd be just fine to run OEM pads and rotors?..why do you think ferraris and mclaren f1's use drilled rotors because they have power out the *** and they need those rotors to be cool so they can stop better..putting drilled and slotted rotors on an accord with 145HP is pointless..it might make your brakes look better but who is going to be inspecting your brakes to see how good they look?...if you have Higher HP go with the drilled or slotted rotors...if you dont stock to OEM like brembo blanks

hurleyint

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So your saying if you have 800WHP itd be just fine to run OEM pads and rotors?..why do you think ferraris and mclaren f1's use drilled rotors because they have power out the *** and they need those rotors to be cool so they can stop better..putting drilled and slotted rotors on an accord with 145HP is pointless..it might make your brakes look better but who is going to be inspecting your brakes to see how good they look?...if you have Higher HP go with the drilled or slotted rotors...if you dont stock to OEM like brembo blanks</TD></TR></TABLE>


Actually, the rotors are drilled on Ferrari's only for Appearance. Many people find them attractive. The "usefulness" of a drilled rotor faded out when the pad compounds changed and harmful gases no longer created stopping difficulties, thus the need for the holes, allowing the gas to escape.

slowly slipping away

still have to disagre with that statment, again a drilled/ slotted rotor is not going to stop your car faster (a bigger rotor will do that- thats why those Ferraris and McClarens run BIG *** ROTORS and calipers..although I dont belive this thread was about rotor diamater) but they will run cooler over time resisting brake fade. I know alot of ppl who auto cross there 145hp accords on the weekends (among other things) and the drilled/ slotted rotor seems to resist brake fade better than the stock ones. True, that with newer pad compounds there is no "gassing" of the pads and therfore nothing to be vented. Although the cooler the rotor remains the more efficient your brakes will perform over a set period of time- Im not making this stuff up.

361 accord

you know, drilled rotors arent going to do any good on the rear brakes, cuz theyre single solid disc, though they probably would help a little with cooling with repeated heavy use, but well, this is where i hit a brick wall (in logic)

you got a pad here ] and one here [, with the disc in th emiddle, , with holes

]=[ well, see, those alleged "gasses" arent going anywheres, both ends of the hole are sealed off, but in theory it would provide a area for said gasses to collect then escape later, really imo solid rotor with holes=useless unless ur doin track hardcore, maybe

also slotted pads, are gonna do the same thing unless the slots go the entire face of the disk so that the pad face is smaller than the slot, like to provide a direct exhaust for the alleged gasses to vent

brembo big brake kit ftw, expensive though and you'll need a little bigger wheels

361 accord

also at yall, horsepower has nothing to do with stopping power, the mclaren doesnt care if the motor blows the expletive up, its STILL gonna have "m" amount of mass, times "v" miles per hour = kinetic rollin energy or momentum, w/e, of the car, so its gonna take "x" distance to stop

i always mess up physics equations so feel free to correct, but the fact remains yo,

you get a 145whp accord that weights 3250lbs goin 120mph, and you get a 400+whp turbocharged K20(the type s one) accord that also weighs 3250 and get it goin at 120 mph, theyre gonna stop in the same distance yo

its just that ferrari knew that ppl were going to wanna do 180mph, and they ARE gonna go that fast, so they needa equip the car properly

BLKFLSH

Slotted/drilled rotors cost more to buy, and also cost more if you ever need to have them turned, if they actually crack or not. So if they are not necessary, why spend the extra $$$?

XiOus271

For the record, Kinetic Energy = 1/2(mass x velocity) squared. A few things will have an effect on stopping distance, such as the coefficient of friction between the road and the tires. The larger disks will help you stop sooner I think, as long as they aren't cheap crap, but we didnt quite go into brake pads and stopping distance. I think they just increase coefficient of friction in a different way... I'm too lazy to go look at my physics notes right now, but with a larger area of contact, the coefficient of friction increases, and as that increases, stopping distance decreases. Oh yeah, the equation for stopping distance is:

Distance = velocity squared / 2(coefficient of friction) x g (which is 9.81m/s squared)

Please pardon my semi-longwinded post, but I thought I'd attempt to contribute a bit

jlhansen

It really doesn't take much space to release the trapped gasses. I think the idea is to get it away from the pad/rotor interface. It would be in the hole/slot and would exit the interface area and then vent when the hole/slot is free of the pad.

I agree with those who say the drilling and slotting is mostly aestheic for the street. I personally would want the solid disk for the surface area and lower cost.

BoxStuffer

I've got Brembo blanks and PBR pads. I personally think they're great for daily driving. I got a good deal on them from 88rotors here on HT.