spurge

recently i was switching gears in my car and all of a sudden the clutch pedal was sinked all the way to the floor, obviously i was not able to move anywhere.what i was told is that i need to change the slave cylinder( correct me if im wrong).the car is a 91 lx accord. so i bought a new one and took off the old one by connecting the brake line first then mounted the cylinder back in its spot. i untwisted the screw to bleed the line, but after several attemps of bleeding the line i received no resistance from the clutch, if i sink it, it will remain to the floor. also im not getting any response from the long piece within the tube that is held by the bracket. nothing is moving when the clutch is sinked or when i pump the clutch several times. what am i doing wrong? am i not bleeding it right? if so what is the proper procedure. i also lost the little rubber piece that is attached to the part that you can unscrew, so im using the one from the old cyclinder which is in bad condition. but when i put pressure on it and the clutch is being pumped i still dont receive any response. help please!

owequitit

Bleeding them can take a long time, depending on how much fluid came out, and how much air got in. It is also possible that it is your clutch master cylinder that is bad, and not the slave cylinder.

kidcool1977

#1 you should do a search on this topic, plenty of info on it.

Anyway i did mine a few weeks ago (slave cyl.) and it did quite a bit of pumpin to get fluid running through the new slve cyl. i would say it took me a good 30 min.
I mean does the brake fluid go down in the master resevoir when you pump the pedal and open the bleed screw. And last your Master could be bad like the last gyu said.

wrenchy

Check a shop-manual, it will have simple tests you can run to show if the MASTER is to blame. The truth is the master fails much more often than the slave.

And a slave can take a while to bleed. Once again, check the procedure in a shop manual. It's fairly simple, so if you are bleeding it correctly most likely the master is bad.

If you had checked a shop manual first the diagnostics might have pointed to the master, and you could have saved some time and $$$. If you did, I apologize.

This is a perfect example of how a good shop-manual can pay for itself in one repair- the symptoms of slave/master failure can be very much the same (except for obvious leakage) and a good shop manual will have detailed, step by step methods to diagnose the problem, ruling one out, and saving money and time. Wrenchy