boat49

Its a 93 Accord with fuel injected engine. 1) When I pull the 1st plug wire there is oil dripping from it. No oil on the next 2 and then some oil on the last one, this is going left to right as you look at it. 2) It shimmys when you get over about 60, after looking that could be a bushing that looks worn? 3) After it warms up, when I come to a stop the idle is real low which makes the oil light flicker, then when I go sometimes the oil light will continue to blink on and off and sometimes it goes off. Any thoughts on causes and fixes on these issues? I'm going to be using it as a run around car to save on gas.
Thanks for any help you may have....b49

poorman212

1 ad 3 could be related. There are "tube" seals that can cause oil around the outside of the plug. Once the seals are replaced (I suggest both upper and lower unless you are brave) install new plugs-might as well do the cap and rotor. Check oil level, or change since you may not know when it was done.

MAD_MIKE

^This
The shimmy could be bad wheel balance, or in need of a rebalance. Look at the tires for wear or bald spots/flat spots.

boat49

Can a "moderately" able DIY mechanic change the seals? Yes, I think I will take it and have the front end checked out. The lady that owns it, well her son had a collision with a curb on the right side and was suspicious of the guys that fixed it. Thats the side that shimmies. Thanks alot for the input, I appreciate it...b49

nus_dogg

My CD5 shimmys at around 65-70mph and mine's not a wheel balance issue as I just mounted and balanced my new tires I bought off Tirerack.com and it has been doing since last year and a half and I've gone through 2-3 sets of tires already during this shimmy issue.

Mine's definitely not a:
-Bearing issue
-Not a tie-rod issue
-Not a wheel balance issue

I do know that:
-It needs an alignment which maybe all the suspensions are off
-It needs front rotors

boat49

Well, I changed to tube seals and that seems to have helped with the oil light. It still comes on when the car warms up and the idle drops down but it doesnt stay on or do the blinking thing it was doing. Bought new suspension part the was trashed, (the straight piece with 4 bushing), and when putting it on discovered another bushing that is trashed. I havent replaced it yet but just changing the one has elimanted the shimmy. Thanks for the input and suggestions............b49

poorman212

Personally I'd figure out the oil light first. Why does the idle drop, can you describe the situation by/when this happens? What are the RPM's when the light comes on.

chikin pickle

Your toe is probably out of wack. Had the same thing on my car ate through a set of tires in 9 months. Alignment (twice cause NAPA by my house apparently is clueless. Don't get me started on AZ mechanics). Got a good one done and I haven't had a problem since.

Generally a "shimmy" and a steering pull point to your alignment. It could also be tie-rods/ball joints as well.

As for the oil, it isn't hard to change them. Just be patient, pay attention to the procedure for removing the rockers and invest in a torque wrench.

boat49

The idle drops after it warms up. Until then it's fine. It drops down to below 500. If you don't give it gas it dies. In my readings, am I correct in there is no mechanical adjustment for the idle? It is adjusted by computer?

poorman212

The base idle can be adjusted, however I would want to test, inspect everthing esle first.