crusto2k3

So I cleaned my throttle body and when I put everything back together, my idle is high, like 2k and hesitates sometimes. The idle starts at 1500 then goes up to 2K and then back to 1500, then the check enginge light comes on. Any advice? All this happens in about one minute.

GhostAccord

Check to make sure you didn't mix up the TPS and MAP sensor connectors.

If that doesn't fix the problem retrieve the CEL codes and go from there.

P_Adams

Here's a list of OBD1 Trouble Codes.

OBD1 Trouble Codes:

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

If either 3 or 5 show up, it's most likely a MAP sensor problem.
If Both 3/5 AND 7 show up, the wires may indeed be crossed (as GhostAccord suggested)
If just 7 shows up, The TPS is the most likely offender (which I suspect).

P

crusto2k3

So heres more, the idle sits with no check enginge light for about 45-60 secs, then at the same time the CEL and the Idle drop to 15-1600. Would I be able to retreive the CEL code from my honda myself.

Te connectors for the TPS and the MAP are far enought not to be misconnected

bradley152

I have a 98 accord lx with the vtec can anyone tell me where the canister purge solenoid would be located Thank You

crusto2k3

Update!!!

Codes are 7, 14, and 43.

Would cleaning the TB cause the sensor to go bad, and the IACV to go bad at the same time? What would have caused this?

Would driving this car like this be bad for it's health?

Where should I START?

GhostAccord

Try Swapping the IACV and TPS connectors & rest the ECU.

crusto2k3

The TPS is ont the back of the throttle body, and the MAP is in the front, theres no way I could have misconnected, to swap would mean i hae to cut stuff.

Reset the ECU and the check engine light is gone, but now I have that surging idle again, should I remove the IACV and the FITV and clean them again....

GhostAccord

My bad... just realized your working on a 4th gen.

Check to make sure there are no vacuum leaks around the 2 valves. Did you reuse the old gaskets? If you did make sure you clean them well and get any oxidation off them before you reuse them. I cleaned mine with soap and water then used a silicone based lubricant (Dielectric Grease) to aid them in sealing. Never had any problems in the two years I ran it after that.

crusto2k3

Yeah Ghostaccord, no worries, i was sure there was some misunderstanding. I used a new Flepro gasket.

But now....

So I can't get the CEL to come back on, good thing, but I have the surging idle 1200-1700. Cleaned FITV and IACV.

Is there anything I need to check before the replacement of the IACV?

crusto2k3

OK, sprayed carb cleaner abd found a leak between the TB and the IM. Would this be my troubles.

Why would the gasket that I got not be sealing correctly?

GhostAccord

Yes a vacuum leak will cause the problems you are having. That was what I was getting too. Seemed like the symptoms of a vacuum leak. THat's why I was talking about the gaskets between the valves and the IM. I didn't realize that you removed the entire throttle body to clean it.

If you didn't get 100% of the old gasket off and scrape both surfaces it can cause leaking problems. Take it apart and make sure that both matting surfaces are 100% material free.

crusto2k3

Oh yes I did reuse the gaskets in the FITV and IACV. But they are in great condidtion, I got this honda about 6 years ago with only 32K now 107K and I have been the only other than original driver. The car runs great, but I am trying to clean what I can and help it out a bit.

I thought I had cleaned the TB and IM surfaces good, but i was using aftermarket gasket, I just ordered a new one from honda and I'm gonna fix it tomorrow when it gets here. So I'll let you know how that goes.

crusto2k3

So I fixed the leak and everything is good, but now my idle sits at 900 when it should be about 750. Idle screw doesnt really change anything, FITV cleaned and white piece was adjusted accordingly at running temp. No leaks could be found and everything running smoothly.