f22b2 engine valve adjustment (97 accord)
#1
f22b2 engine valve adjustment (97 accord)
When I do valve adjustment I just rotate it until the arrow is pointing up and adjust the valve 1 in & ex, valve 2 ex; valve 3 in. And then just rotate it 180 degrees and adjust the rest of them correct. Im rotating the timing belt rite, but I can use the power steering to move it correct.
#2
Re: f22b2 engine valve adjustment (97 accord)
Rotate the crank by turning the crankshaft pulley via the 22mm (i think, it may be a dif size) nut that is accessible through the hole in the driver's side fender liner. You can access this nut without putting the car up on a lift or jack stands, you just need a ratchet, socket of the proper size, and an extension that's between 3-6 inches long. Turn it COUNTER-clockwise only, turning it the other way can cause the timing belt to skip a tooth.
First make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC. When it is, the following will ALL be true:
1. the TDC mark on the flywheel will be aligned with the pointer in the timing inspection window at the rear of the engine. the TDC mark is WHITE, not red.
2. the distributor rotor is pointing at the terminal/plug wire No.1 (mark the cap with the corresponding wire numbers and remove the cap to see where the rotor is pointing).
3. the TDC grooves on the camshaft pulley will be at 3 and 9 oclock, and the UP mark will be at 12 oclock.
4. the rocker arms for at least one valve on cyl. 1 is loose; the camshaft lobes are not putting pressure on the rocker arms.
You will need to set cyl 1 to TDC, then adjust the valves for that cylinder, then rotate the CRANKSHAFT 180 degrees (camshaft will rotate 90) until the UP mark on the cam pulley is facing the exhaust side (and a TDC groove lines up with the groove on the timing belt cover) and the distributor rotor points to number 3. Do the valves for No. 3, then rotate the CRANK 180 degrees until the UP mark is at 6 oclock and the distributor rotor points to No. 4, then do the valves for No 4. Then rotate the crank another 180 degrees until the UP mark is at the intake side (again, a TDC groove in the cam pulley should line up with the groove in the timing belt cover) and the distributor rotor points to No.2, then adjust the valves for No 2.
The proper torque value for the locknuts on the valve adjustment screws is 14 FOOT-lbs (not in-lbs). The intake valves should have .009-.011" of clearance (.010" ideal), the exhaust valves should have .011-.013" of clearance (.012" ideal). When using feeler gauges, you shouldn't have to STRUGGLE to pull the gauge out, but it should just grab the gauge enough that you feel some resistance when pulling it out. If the gauge can fall out on its own, it's way too loose, but it shouldn't be so tight that it's marring up your gauges like crazy.
Make sure you replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the rocker assembly is off if you aren't already planning on doing it (some call them rocker arm assembly seals), those things leak commonly and let oil into the spark plug tubes.
Good luck and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! BTW all this info is found in the Chilton manual for this car, it's a VERY good value for anyone who works on their own car (it's cheap, like $20-25 at OReilly/Autozone/etc).
First make sure cylinder 1 is at TDC. When it is, the following will ALL be true:
1. the TDC mark on the flywheel will be aligned with the pointer in the timing inspection window at the rear of the engine. the TDC mark is WHITE, not red.
2. the distributor rotor is pointing at the terminal/plug wire No.1 (mark the cap with the corresponding wire numbers and remove the cap to see where the rotor is pointing).
3. the TDC grooves on the camshaft pulley will be at 3 and 9 oclock, and the UP mark will be at 12 oclock.
4. the rocker arms for at least one valve on cyl. 1 is loose; the camshaft lobes are not putting pressure on the rocker arms.
You will need to set cyl 1 to TDC, then adjust the valves for that cylinder, then rotate the CRANKSHAFT 180 degrees (camshaft will rotate 90) until the UP mark on the cam pulley is facing the exhaust side (and a TDC groove lines up with the groove on the timing belt cover) and the distributor rotor points to number 3. Do the valves for No. 3, then rotate the CRANK 180 degrees until the UP mark is at 6 oclock and the distributor rotor points to No. 4, then do the valves for No 4. Then rotate the crank another 180 degrees until the UP mark is at the intake side (again, a TDC groove in the cam pulley should line up with the groove in the timing belt cover) and the distributor rotor points to No.2, then adjust the valves for No 2.
The proper torque value for the locknuts on the valve adjustment screws is 14 FOOT-lbs (not in-lbs). The intake valves should have .009-.011" of clearance (.010" ideal), the exhaust valves should have .011-.013" of clearance (.012" ideal). When using feeler gauges, you shouldn't have to STRUGGLE to pull the gauge out, but it should just grab the gauge enough that you feel some resistance when pulling it out. If the gauge can fall out on its own, it's way too loose, but it shouldn't be so tight that it's marring up your gauges like crazy.
Make sure you replace the lower spark plug tube seals while the rocker assembly is off if you aren't already planning on doing it (some call them rocker arm assembly seals), those things leak commonly and let oil into the spark plug tubes.
Good luck and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask! BTW all this info is found in the Chilton manual for this car, it's a VERY good value for anyone who works on their own car (it's cheap, like $20-25 at OReilly/Autozone/etc).
#4
Re: f22b2 engine valve adjustment (97 accord)
I understand the camshaft part the best. But Im still hesitant. I need to buy a chilton manual although I have a haynes. Which Im going to look at. Its my only car so I cant mess it up. And I understand some of the markings Ive seen them before.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: f22b2 engine valve adjustment (97 accord)
Just follow eric the car guys video. Youll be fine. geta flashlight...and look at the cam shaft, as long as your not on the lobe your ok. Use the power steering pump to turn engine
#6
The crank turns more than the cam due to its size.
Just worry about watching the cam. Arrrows up for 1 cylinder valves. Then turn crank bolt using 19mm head socket so cam moves 90 degrees. Then do 3rd cylinder valves. Etc etc. It goes 1-3-4-2
Just worry about watching the cam. Arrrows up for 1 cylinder valves. Then turn crank bolt using 19mm head socket so cam moves 90 degrees. Then do 3rd cylinder valves. Etc etc. It goes 1-3-4-2
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post