poorman212

No stored codes, correct?

Does this warm or cold, as corrected. Can we assume the tune up items are up to date.

Have the egr ports and valve been cleaned?

Hey, you hung around after the whole DK thing......

phootbag

Hard to drift with a poorly running car...

shadetree101

lol im more concerned with driving back and forth to work at this point...

new egr valve/sensor as well...havent had time to clean the ports.... the way i read on doing that...is it ok to let that gunk fall down in that hole? if not how would you prevent it from doing that? seems like it would to me...

the stumble is at a steady hold in speed(under 2500rpm)...acceleration is when it corrects but it has to be slightly heavy acceleration or else then it does it as well

Stagerguy

Following this thread with great interest. My F22B1 is doing pretty much the same thing, bucks between 1800-2600 rpm when lightly on the accelerator. So for instance while at cruisin' speed on the highway in 5th gear. If I drop to 4th and get the rpm over 26-2700 rpm all is good. Does this at any speed in any gear, definitely rpm related. Cleaned air filter (K&N), cleaned throttle body, replaced plugs/wires/cap and rotor. Replaced primary O2 sensor, water temp sensor and fuel filter. On occasion it throws a "misfire on 4" code, lots of black soot at the tailpipe like she's running rich. According to my OBD II code reader the TPS is OK. For about 45 seconds when she's cold it runs perfect, soon as she starts to warm up it starts bucking. I'm leaning towards fouled injector
I'll probably start a new thread at some point, just thought I'd share.

holmesnmanny

lol my bad, I didn't realize you already tried it. I would say clean your egr ports as well.

phootbag

If you open the EGR valve at idle the engine should stall. If you open the EGR valve at idle and the engine doesn't stall the ports are plugged. To determine which ports are plugged, open the EGR valve and perform a cylinder balance test. The cylinders that react have plugged EGR ports. The cylinders that don't react have already been killed by the EGR gases proving that the ports are clear.

Plugged EGR ports usually only show themselves after warm-up because the EGR valve doesn't operate when the engine is in open loop ( cold ). Combustion chamber temperatures are highest when the engine is under very light load, slight acceleration or cruising. WOT, EGR closes. Idle, EGR closes, slight accel or cruise EGR opens.

This COULD be the cuase of your symptom.

shadetree101

i pushed up on the diaphram if that is what you are referring to, to make it open and it did stall...how would i test my injectors? couldnt i use a volt meter without pulling them?

could this be from a bad ground?

92CB7BITCHES

Well Ive found with the cheap plugs , you get what you pay for. When mine started acting up I tried the cheap NGK plugs and still ran like crap. Advance suggested Autolite somethings , they weren't cheap though....same old shitty running engine. Then I decided to stop being so damn cheap and bought NGK performance plugs and I upgraded my 7mm wires to 8.5mm wires and it made a world of difference. Gas mileage jumped up and my power was back. I also upgraded the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump and changed the fuel filter....needless to say she's a screaming bitch now. Still busting anything that rolls up and revs thinking its a stock Accord engine. Maybe you should upgrade wire size and maybe the more expensive wires.

shadetree101

just changed my TPS...that sux really bad...took me 5 hrs to calibrate...

didnt have time to test drive... dont wanna **** off the neighbors...will update tomm

phootbag

Calibrate the TPS with a volt meter. Closed throttle value should be .45-.50 volts.

shadetree101

i did and still the same issue...im running a scantool on it monday...havent had luck with finding someone till then that can scan it...on guy said maybe peices of my cat cme loose... im about out of things...

phootbag

I was commenting specifically on calibrating the TPS, not how it could be affecting your vehicle and causing your current symptom. I thought you may have not used a volt meter to calibrate the TPS since it took 5 hours to calibrate.

shadetree101

nah it was just complicating for my fragile mind

so it can be less than .50? but no less than .45? because that thing is figgity...i think it changed on me or something because i checked and triple checked after i put everything back together to make sure it was dead on .50 on my meter and every now and then my idle will bounce 3 times and return to proper idle...

roscopcoletrain

I had 2 replace the radiator and thermostat. Somebody had rigged the thermostat to stay open so the car ran awesome. As soon as I replaced it it does the samething as yours. The ony difference is when I checked for codes it gave me a code 31. My cel had never come on. I have been told the transmission is affected by temp.

shadetree101

i've had people say that my problem could be one of an automatic tranny but seeing as mine is a stick that would eliminate that for me...maybe my slave cylinder is going out? hell im just gonna ride it out till i get my car hooked up to a scantool

bromozee

i tried this and it didnt change any on injector #1. what does that mean???

shadetree101

well just got my car back from a trusted mechanic shop and he drove it with his computer hooked up to it and he had no issues come thru the computer....even when it was acting up....grrr

im going to dig into my egr ports whenever i have time to let my engine cool...
i asked a question about the egr ports earlier in this thread and didnt get an answer....

shadetree101

well my check engine light came on this morning but by the time i got somewere that had a paperclip to check why, when i turned the car back on it was off...bummer...it was wierd i hve never been excited to get a check engine light before

shadetree101

i did....there wasnt one...im about to clean my egr ports...i havent done that yet because i thought i used the JDM intake manifold during my switch-r-roo but i remembered that i HAD to use the USDM intake because of some vaccume hoses that werent there...so with that being said....of to "rodding out" i go...still no answer on wthe build up that might fall into the intake...guess it was a dumb question...here goes nothing!

shadetree101

well ill be a monkeys uncle...i think i fixed it...i was thinking my exhaust was clogged up as well because i would have a leak that would come and go as if something was there...took it off and nothing seemed to be rattling around inside...

egr ports and runners looked horrible! felt like i was cleaning my bong from high school....lol

still dont have my exhaust pipe on...i hope that guy in another thread of mine was right about 0 back-pressure because i dont have time to put it back on till after work tomm...wish me luck guys i think we did it!

all of ya'lls help is greatly appreciated!