gmrnguyen

I did everything mentioned (cleaning the iavc, fitv, and tb) and my 92 accord dx still idles from 1300-2000. Anything else i may be missing?

richardman

Did a throttle body cleaning following instructions from pdf link
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=735

car had shaky idles and check engine lights is on. I do not have a code reader.

Symptoms are when i rev up to 3000 rpm no matter what gear i am it will not let me go higher than 3000rmp and engine will flick up and down between 3000-3500 rpm .

Did i damage the map or EGR any info or past experiences will be greatly appreciated. please help..

GhostAccord

The most simple thing to check is if you unplugged any sensors. Make sure you put them back in the proper locations. You can make the mistake of swapping the TPS and MAP sensor plugs as they are the same configuration.

Is your check engine light on? If it is have the diagnostics read for any stored codes on the ECU.

richardman

My car is 2001 honda accord dx. It has a F23A5 4 cylinder non vtec engine manual trans.

I am sure that i did not put the wrong plugs in for the map and tps as one for MAP is gray and the TPS plug is blue.

my check engine light is on but i will not have access to an obd2 code reader untill tuesday.

What i did so far is bought a new map sensor and with the new one plugged in it still has jerky idles so i put the old one back on.
my guess is it is the tps sensor that needs replacing. the screws are not phillips to take off the tps sensor

UPDATE
after unplugging and plugging the ecu fuse (#13 by the passenger door)the 3000 rpm flicking is gone and i am able to drive over 3000 rpm but car still idles weird on neutral goes lower than 750 rpm. When driving in gear 2 or any gear and dropped into neutral the idles will drop into zero and move back up to about 500 rpm if coasting. If car is put into neutral at full stop it will stall. If car is idling on neutral and gas is applied when rpm drops the car will stall.

I found if i remove the rubber plug on top of the throttle body the car will run properly but idles are at 1000 rpm and check engine light will turn on. please see pic

zryder

im having trouble finding the IAC on my 2000 accord v6 ex. where is it located exactly? thanks

GhostAccord

The V6 doesn't technically have an IACV, it has what is referred to as a rotary air control valve. That is attached to the bottom of the throttle body. It is the equivalent to the FITV & IACV together.

brakedrum

Good help here on cleaning removing and cleaning IACV. Just cleaned mine. Thought I would add that if you decide like me to replace the little screen filter there seems to be no cool way to remove the old one. If it's been there a long time it's likely wedged in good and there is little if any rim to grab onto to yank it out. I ended up bending the rim inwards in a couple of spots using needlenose pliers and then yanked it out.

quickster

yea plus the screws on that thing are ultra tough to get off, i was never able to get them off even with a power drill. i just let the carb cleaner sit in there for an hour and then repeated the process 2 more times and all is well.

brakedrum

You probably got lucky. As far as I know, there is no replacement gasket available to go between the pieces of the valve if you seperate them and find that gasket cannot be reused. I was even careful to keep the carb cleaner off the edges of that gasket. Don't wanna have to buy a new IACV. Now I'm trying to get the new screen inserted and that too is proving challenging. This is where I need a cool idea from somebody here on how to easily seat that little round screen.

brakedrum

Got it. I put a washer on top of it and slowly pressed it in with a small c-clamp.

Koietsu

Well I hate to bother but I have a 94' Honda Accord Lx.
It had the erratic idling problem when started and then when I went to drive it, it would jump from about 1200-2k rpm.

I had cleaned the IACV, Adjusted the FITV, Cleaned TB, Cleaned the EGR Ports, Sprayed Carb cleaner on majority of the vacuum lines then taped them up, Changed spark plugs, and done everything listed in this forum and two others.

My car is still doing the same thing. When first started up sometimes it will rev at 1k RPM, and then jump to 2k RPM then go back down to 1k.
Then when I drive I'll hit about 1200 RPM and it will instantly kick and hit 2k and go back and forth between that until I pass 2k RPM.
I also learned that when it idles and I turn on my headlights it will go below 1k.

I remember reading that it could be ground wires in which I'll check tomorrow.

I also learned that there is this little box (I'm guessing it is the MAP sensor but I didn't want to assume), located on the passenger side by the TB wasn't ticking, so I unplugged it while my car was on and plugged it back in and it started ticking (like electrical current popping through it). It ran fine with the CEL on after doing that. Could that be one of the problems to why my idle is acting up?

Someone also claimed a bad TPS could be the problem to it too but I'm not sure where that is located nor do I know how to test it.

I also took it to one of my mechanics, and when it was doing it's erratic idle he took a little screwdriver and hit my ignition switch. He said my ignition switch was bad and needed to be replaced but somehow it actually ran right for the rest of the day.

So before I go and spend a bunch of money I wanted to know if there was anything else I could consider. I've been keeping notes on my car (What has been done/what hasn't)

So if anyone could help me, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Thank You

Koietsu

bump

D-Turbo_EG

Bump from the dead

Hey guys i was wondering, if doing this procedure is safe if running a different tune than stock? Also, I dont quite know how to jumper the SCS? Can anyone clarify on that? I have a 92 civic with a d16 turbo.

Thanks for any help.

Spawn_civic

Hi To All


I have a Accord LX 94 and get the idle problem 1000 to 2000 but after like 20 minute on the car turn off by her self and i need to wait about 10 minute to turn the car on again.


I clean all the IACV, FITV, Clean TB and check all the hose and still with the problem.


But i order the IACV for see what happen

And i want to read more suggestion

SanctumRelic

well that sucks.

Stagerguy

Q for GhostAccord, can you use Felpro Karropak .035 for other gaskets under the hood?
I get tired of buying/ waiting for gaskets and prefer to make my own.

wdoolan

I just swapped a 96 2.2 and auto tranny into my daughters 94 LX. And for weeks could not get it to run correctly. the Idle was surging from 1000-2500 when cold, but surging less when warm. But would always surge at part throttle will driving.

I cleaned the IACV, FITV and throttle body and there was no change.

When I checked the voltage to the IACV it was not battery voltage on the yellow wire as it should be, it was only 10 volts. I found damage to the wiring leading to it and fixed that issue.

Reset the ECU, fired it up and it went from 1000 RPM idle to 2000 RPM idle.

Once it warmed up it went from 2000 RPM to surging, big time, disconnecting the connector from the TPS wires stopped the issue, but so would resetting the ECU and disconnecting IACV.

I took the IACV off and cleaned it more thourouly and now it runs like a new car.

I did not let the IACV sit filled with carb cleaner long enough the first time. So when I finally fixed the IACV wires, the clogged up IACV really caused the engine to run horribly.

Just an FYI, It took me 3 weeks to get this damn thing running right.

Thank you for this thread.

I am new to this site, and have found it amazingly useful!!

Thank you

The car is running like a new car....never thought it would run so good!!!

Bill

autophile

I'm having similar probs in my 94 cd7, I've tried the egr valve, egr port cleaning, and O2 sensor... This will be my IACV and FITV will be my next course of action.

Also, I'm a newb, and I just wanted to send a huge wave of gratitude for all the help and excellent step by step instructions in the FAQ sections. This is a great site, and I look forward to learning much more in the future!

recka808

found this thread informative gonna try cleaning IACV. hope it fixes my issue.

rshefland

Thanks for the instructions and advice having that idle prob along with other things... thanks !

recka808

I did the egr port cleaning, FITV and IACV cleaning, my 94 honda accord stayed on. only issue now it idles at 1000 rpm anything under that it sputters and dies. Any suggestions. I have dropped the gas tank completly cleaned out gas pump and sock were decent. checking hoses, so any advice will help.

GhostAccord

Make sure that your EGR valve isn't open during idle. You may have switched a vacuum hose around when you put everything back together. EGR should only be open at higher RPMs.

professorman

I was having problems with my car idling WAY too low when I had the A/C on. My mechanic friend told me that the IACV is most likely the problem, so I digged into it today. When I took off the IAC, the screen was gunked up. I cleaned it up really good. I cleaned out the throttle body as well. Since I was there cleaning, I figured it'd be good to go ahead and clean the EGR ports as well. Man, I am telling you, those things were GUNKED up. I spent about 2 1/2 hrs scraping out the carbon build up. It was not totally stopped up as yet, but I do not think I was far behind. I am glad I did it. It is a great maintenance item to do. My car has 225k miles on it and this is the first time I am doing it. I got the EGR instructions from the FAQ.

My car ran like crap when I first started it, but after it learned itself, it ran like a dream, just like it did before. I am not sure if this will do much, but I lost 2MPG since my low idle with A/C problem started and now getting 28-29MPG on highway instead of 30-31.5MPG. I hope this restores my lost MPG.

Kudos to a good write up

nus_dogg

So did that fix your low idle with A/C on then? I'm having the same problem but mine's a JDM H22A an aftermarket TB(clean) & Euro R IM(Brand New; Clean). I'm sure the IACV is clean as well on mine as I have it off at times for parts upgrade, etc.

professorman

Yes, it was the dirt IACV. I ended up with a fuel leak after doing this though. The instructions did not state that I need to oil the fuel injector o-rings to get the injectors back into the fuel rail. Being that it was my first time removing injectors, it got messed up. It is all good now though, with all new seals for all the injectors.


From reading up, a bad compressor (or on its way out) could cause this problem too.

From my research about A/C problems, I had saved these tit-bits from the forum. Maybe it could give you a direction if you are sure your IACV is clean.