JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by syler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... im at a normal idle at 1k rpm...</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm no D16 guru, but it seems like your idle should be more like 700 or 800??

avatar173

Doing this tomorrow. I've got a jumping idle at start-up that will bog dead every now and then. 98 cheap-o. Will ost some results!
Better this than 140$ egr

Took 2 hours... Runs WAY smoother. And it finally gave teh correct computer codes afterwards to fix the real problem. Bad MAP sensor.



Modified by avatar173 at 1:57 PM 4/19/2007

kendokid

Hi . First time post for a first time problem.

I'm not that familiar with Honda's, so I have to ask...

I used the search function and it brought up this post. I have an 02 Civic that has started bouncing around while idling. The error code says its the IACV. Is this the same procedure when compared to the Accord? I'm sure it's a complete noob question, but I've got to get it inspected and I don't really care to spend $200+ on a new part if I can just clean it. Thanks for any input.

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendokid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I have an 02 Civic that has started bouncing around while idling. The error code says its the IACV...</TD></TR></TABLE>Should be sorta the same. I'm not too familiar with Civic, but I think your IACV is shown here as #1 in the lower right corner.

kendokid

Thanks for the schematic. That's incredibly helpful. I appreciate it.

After asking around parts places, I've been told that this part on the 02's cannot be cleaned and has to be replaced, is this true or bs?

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendokid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... this part on the 02's cannot be cleaned and has to be replaced, is this true or bs?</TD></TR></TABLE>I don't know.

Call around again & ask the same question about a '96 Accord. I wonder if you'll get the same story...

ludecrasy87

thanks so much ive been worried that my car was about to die. Thanks a million
As i read this thread i didnt hurt to give it a try and my problem is gone

hema_f117

helloo mtnwkr

i find these info very helpfull

what happens with me after doing that (cleaninig FITV & IACV)
that the rpm now bounces from 1000 to 1500 alwayes ,before it was doing that some times its getting worth don know why although the engine sound is now better and smother

i did exactly as u said and i used (ACDelco carb cleaner) and i cleaned every thing well and i was very carefull with the O-rings

what do u think ?????

please help

crxhybrid.

i have a 99 gsr swap into my 96 civic...and im throwing code 14...
ive cleaned and then replaced my iacv...
and my car doesn't have the fitv those where in prior years to my motor i think threw 95 or so...
well i've dun everything changed the o2's sensor
i've checked my wiring ran it straight to ground and the computer
checked for vacuum leaks(none found)
what in the world is going on?

88 civic ef

iTrader: (1)

Hey i have clean my IACV and the FITV and now my check engine light comes on is it because i have OVER TIGHTEN ON THE FITV ??? and when my car warms up it jumps alittle when it gets near 1,000 rpm and it jumpes up till 1,300 and drop back

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88 civic ef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... is it because i have OVER TIGHTEN ON THE FITV ???</TD></TR></TABLE>Read the error code & see what it's about.

hema_f117

hi

i was having a bounce RPM and i still do after cleaning and even changing the FITV & IACV .

does it works with u ?

i mean ur bounce RPM broblem is gone yet or not and what did u do if it gone ?

hema_f117

does it works with u cleaning that IACV & FITV ?

my broblem is bouncing RPM is it urs also ?

virgilr

I had done the cleaning/tightening as per this thread, and still had some bouncing idle problems, esp. after the car warmed up. So, I got an IACV from a wrecking yard and cleaned it as it was full of carbon.

One thing I noticed- my old IACV, when cleaning, didn't "hold" the carb cleaner in the port where you see the white threaded plastic part (the port without the screen). The Carb cleaner would percolate down into the valve body.

When I cleaned the replacement, it held the carb cleaner fine, with no percolating effect. So, with the replacement IACV in place, I don't have any bouncing RPM problem at idle any more!

Just something to check- I imagine my old one was leaking internally.

Lnghrn Accord

You can see a couple of photos of the Idle Air Control Valve in my 94 Accord before and after a good cleaning at

http://www.dropshots.com/day.p...img=1

Cleaning was done as described here.

Thanks, mtnwkr!

Lnghrn Accord

A guy at my dad's office claims that there is a coated sensor in the IACV that is destroyed by cleaning. When I cleaned my IACV using the procedure in this thread, it seemed to work fine. Does this guy not know what he's talking about or what?

emfollin

I have a '01 4cyl that shakes at idle. The idle speed is about 750 RPM. I was just wondering if doing this maintenance would solve my issue. I don't have the sparratic idle. My car just shakes a little at idle; enough to where I can see the passenger seat shaking and I can feel it through the steering wheel.


Modified by emfollin at 10:44 AM 8/17/2007

98accord4sale

does anybody have a schematic for a 98 accord 4cyl or maybe a pic od the IACV, thanx

wrenchy

Thanks, MTNWKR. Just when I think my brain is going to melt down from more posts on "best lowering" or "best 5 mods", a great post like this comes along. I have cleaned my TB before, but the rest I will definitely try.

For those of you out there that find this type post invaluable (stuff not found in a shop-manual), you might want to consider doing this. I have a 3-ring binder set up for this type post- I print down a nice clean (sharp) copy, punch the pages, and put them into the binder. I only bind "specialty" type posts like this- things not in a shop manual and things you would have a !@#$% time later trying to find in the archives.

Lately I bound posts for breaking the crank bolt loose (2 different methods) and drilling out/cleaning the EGR ports. None of this stuff is in a manual, so I have started my own. Later, when I need the info fast, it's in the binder next to my shop manual. Wrenchy

nightridero4

Hi guys, Im new to this forum, i joined because i have a serious problem, my car wont start anymore.. I have a 2000 Honda Accord ex 4 cylinder.

one day i started to notice that whenever i come to a stoplight that my accord would idle rough, usually its a smooth idle at 500rpm but recently it feels like it drops down to 200 and goes up to 500 like its about to stall out... so i goto autozone and buy "throttle body cleaner" which is supposed to smooth out rough idle. i buy it, go home, pop my hood open and spray the throttle body cleaner into my throttle body after i had removed my air intake, also i push down on my throttble cable so that i can get some behind the throttle plate... so after drying the insides the best i can with a paper towel, i start up the car and it seems to be fine, no more rough idle, BUT the next day the moment i start my accord i turn the key "ER ER ER VROOM" and in like half a second the engine stalls/dies out immediately i had to keep repeating my routine and step on the gas to finally barely make it up my drive way as it dies out. so now its parked there. i ask and my friend who knows somethings about cars points out that it might be my IAC Valve, and that i got it dirty when i tried to clean it with throttle body cleaner.. so i decided to take out my iac valve and to my surprise theres three chambers, the top two are for air and the bottom third has coolant. anyways im like wow its dirty and black so i clean it out and spray it with throttle body cleaner into the top two air chambers and try my best to dry it out,, i leave it to dry for like 8 hours or so.. then i install my suppposedly cleaned out IAC valve. i bolt it back in and reconnect all the hoses. wah lah... i start the engine... and hurray it starts this time and it idles for longer than 1 second... BUT as it was idling the engine sounded loud and i heard a loud "SSSHHHHHHHHHH" like the sound of an air compressor leaking air, it was kinda scary so im staring at the engine while it idling with the "SSSSSSHHHHHHH" sound and im like **** then the engine suddenly just dies out violently.. and im like oh ****. so i go back in the car and try to start it and now it wont even start at all.. it just sounds like " ER ER" and thats it. not even a chance to idle for a second like before... PLEASE HELP ME, im a poor student, i dont want to take it to the shop hoping someone with experience can teach me what i did wrong.. or tell me what i need to fix now.. so i ordered a new idle air control valve from honda because i think i might have damaged my old iac valve. or cleaned it with the wrong chemicals maybe damaging the sensor plug from the inside? do i need new distributor or something because now the car wont even start it just makes a weak "ER ER" sound. anyone know what i should do??? i would greatly appreciate anyones help. thanks..
-mike p.s. i have not yet installed the new iac valve because i might return it if thats not the problem...

shortlid

OK, went to do this job since my '99 Accord has wondering idle only when cold! I really just wanted to clean the FITV. But there the one on my '99 Accoex does not look anything like the one in the pics? It has no motor housing? Also it does not have 12 mm bolts but 10mm I think. It is way back there and I wanted to check with you guys before I messed it up.

GhostAccord

I'm not 100% but I don't think the 99's have an actual Fast Idle Thermal Valve. They have what is called a Rotary Air Control Valve. It is a combination FITV & IACV



In the image above the top 5th gen 94-97 has both IACV (RED) and FITV (YELLOW). In the bottom part of the image you can see that the 6th gen 98-02 combine both valves into the Rotary Air Control Valve (BLUE) and the FITV has been converted to a coolant passage (YELLOW) The Coolant flows through there to keep the throttle butterfly from icing over in cold conditions.

So if your looking to clean your FITV your out of luck. You will have to settle for cleaning your RACV instead. Same process is involved but you only have to clean one part.

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Out of curiousity

If the cleaning doesn't help

Would it be the IACV is busted and needs to be replaced?

shortlid

Awsome reply and images a thousand thanks!! So I can just take off RACV and clean it with Throdle Body cleaner/ or Seafoams DEEP CREEP. If that does not fix it I might need a new one. Will it look the same inside as the IACV? Do I HAVE to take the collant lines off?

I probibly should get #10 gasket for it as well, while I am at it.





Modified by shortlid at 1:39 PM 11/8/2007

GhostAccord

If you think you can clean it while it's still in the engine bay than you shouldn't have to disconect the coolant lines. Not a big deal to disconnect them though. If you loose coolant just make sure you bleed your cooling system after your done. Just to make sure there are none of those nasty air bubbles in there to cause another idle problem I cleaned my o-rings with a dielectric grease and reused them. It probably wouldn't hurt to replace it while you have it off. If it will give you piece of mind.

No need to be It's an easy job!