jagged4698

Now i know for a fact this topic has been beat to death i know this cause i searched for the past 2 hours on it but all i could come up with was IHE. Just about every one had those letters in it. well i have put together a small list of what i'm going to try and accomplish over a couple months and let yall be the judge and tell me if i will gain or just be wasting my time.....

hi-flow cat
cat back system
underdrive pulley
remove ac compressor
bore throttle body

i'm not hoping to gain 70 horsepower or anything just to shave maybe a second or second and a half off my times....

Confuc1ous

That is a good start to your goal but there are other things you might want to do. I would suggest firstly concentrating on making the car lighter. Removing the A/C compressor is a start. I think i would then work on the motor. I also have been led to believe that the suspension can also help in 1/4 mile times when it comes to the launch and stuff like that. Look into all these things. I'm sure someone who knows a little will post more in depth after me, Good Hunting...

jmouchett

Suspension is a must. If your tires can't stick to the ground then you won't be doing any good except for whoever you are posting against.

mac_24_seven

iTrader: (1)

from my short stay at H-T, ive read over and over again that theirs not a whole lot us 5th gen guys can do to make our cars faster outside of doing some sort of frankenstein engine or power adder (turbo,nitrous). intake and exhaust and the such,doesnt do much at all. we dont have performance oriented cars..

but making it lighter and suspension work will make it more nible and fun to drive, as well as make it faster (if you gut it).

cdsquad.net

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mac_24_seven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">from my short stay at H-T, ive read over and over again that theirs not a whole lot us 5th gen guys can do to make our cars faster outside of doing some sort of frankenstein engine or power adder (turbo,nitrous). intake and exhaust and the such,doesnt do much at all. we dont have performance oriented cars..

but making it lighter and suspension work will make it more nible and fun to drive, as well as make it faster (if you gut it).</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true and it sucks. Best bet for speed is h swap or boost

Martingtrco

sweet plans...good luck

jagged4698

well i guess most of you aren't psychic and i didn't mention i already do have suspension done.... kinda went with what i had and did a small drom with some H&R springs and left the stock struts... i got some 17" konig theory's wrapped in some kuhmo tires. I also have done the intake and thats about it performance wise... I added a carbonfiber hood, took out the spare wheel, jack and all other stuff in the trunk for a little weight reduction. I have looked at all the swaps and i guess the way i look at it is... start small and go big.... if i throw thousands into the motor before i build the basic fundamentals something will go wrong and break.... those few things are my start and most of them i have heard nothing bad about as of now..... so maybe from there i will do something performance with some ignition and fuel delivery....

mmmVTEC

i ran a 15.97 with I/H/E, power steering underdrive pulley, lightweight flywheel and an upgraded clutch. only weight mods were removing the spare tire and having close to an empty tank. not like that's fast...but it's not bad for being a 3000lb way underpowered car. your list looks good, but i dunno how much boring the throttle body will really do. unless you're doing it yourself so it's cheap/free, then hey, why not. i doubt the clutch did much for my time, but it definitely makes driving more fun in general.

mmmVTEC

to continue on that, upgrading the fuel system probably won't matter unless you start doing internals or some kind of forced induction, and from what i've heard ignition is even debatable then. not tryin to knock on your ideas, just tryin to save you some money - or redirect it. i've been upgrading my fuel system piece by piece in preparation for a low boost turbo setup. it's kinda cool to be able to see and adjust my fuel pressure, and monitor IM pressure and throttle and crap (VAFC II), but until that turbo goes on it's not making me any faster :/

jagged4698

as far as the throttle body goes i've been looking at that maxbore site that is advertised on HT and it sounds like a pretty good deal... i want to try and run maybe a 15.5 or maybe a 15.2 or something with theses mods... but honostly i don't know if that is possible... and to all you "super fast race car drivers" no i don't think 15.5 is fast but i think of it as a goal for an accord.

mmmVTEC

if you did run that low you'd be the first as far as i know, but hey, that's why its a goal. heh. ac compressor should toss some in your favor...how about power steering too? only helps significantly at a dead stop anyway. and maybe rock some 14 or 15" rims on race day. couple other random things to look into might be water injection or the various ways to cool your intake charge.

jagged4698

How would that be a first... those are pretty high times still..... and as for wheels on race day... i'm about to wrap the stock 15 inch alloys in some sticky tires. I also have all the polyurethane (sp?) bushings and mounts coming and am installing those. Where can i learn more about "water injection"? I have seen things like ice packs that you wrap over your intake on race days but never heard of water injection?

Rad Racing

If you want to stay with the F22B1, get a H22 tranny. If you can find a LSD one that'd be even better. That will help your quarter time a lot.

mmmVTEC

yea h22 tranny is a good idea too, especially with NA. LSD even better.

as to it being a first, i meant without building internals or going FI. honestly without doing those or severe weight modding, my 15.97 is sadly the best time i've seen for a 5th gen. poly mounts will definitely help with the launch from what i've heard.

water injection is a method used to basically pretend you're running race gas. since water obviously isn't nearly as combustible as gasoline, by adding it to your fuel mixture it acts like a huge octane booster and gives you more tuning possibilities. it greatly reduces in-cylinder temps and so helps prevent detonation and pre-ignition. only downside is if you're tuned for it and you run out of water you're screwed. i dunno where you can learn more about it, i don't know that much about it other than what it does and how it works on a very basic level. the only applications i've heard of were used for turbo systems, but i can't imagine why it'd be limited to FI. the most well known supplier is aquamist (http://www.aquamist.co.uk), but you might be able to rig it yourself too. i think it's a cool concept and after i get my low boost setup stable i'm gonna look more into it.

jagged4698

Well i don't know about the whole water cooling thing... sounds like it is for cars with built internals that need to run race gas.

15.97 seems kinda high still? Any other members on here have time slips with basic bolt ons? It just seems really high with modifications. Well after i have it all done and track it i'll post the time slips.

i20ar

that sounds about right.. a stock accord would run mid-high 16's. honda engines are built already using most of their available power and efficiency.. thats why simple bolt-ons dont do much. think of it like this...

lets just say the f22b motor has available power up to 150 hp using stock internals (this is hypotheticaly im not saying its true) now at the honda factory they restrict it to 140hp stock using small pipes, air restrictors/ resonators,and other emmisions things.. so when you take it home you add your I.E.H to it, unrestricting all that power, you get it back to 150hp since the motor is now running at full power with no restrictors in the way.... now this is differnt for all differnt types of cars... american cars often have many restricting types of parts and thats why you see when they add a simple intake it could give them 10+hp... as for honda cars.. our cars are built using almost all available power... so again lets say the f22b motor has an available 150hp when unrestricted.. you get the car rated at 145hp stock.. you add your I.E.H and that realeases the remaining 5hp.. so thats just about all you can get from I.E.H becuase thats all the stock motor can produce off of stock internals and withought any other modifications.

jagged4698

well in some ways that makes perfect sense but in others it doesn't. Just because you undo what honda has done to restrict some of the horsepower shouldn't mean that you can't go above and beyond the 150 they say it is limited to. Does anyone else have any relatively cheap (i.e. under about $250) to add a little bit of power... i am open for most suggestions....

Rad Racing

Here's one way to describe how a F22B is rather limited, in reference to being N/A. It has 8.8:1 compression stock, that simply hinders potential hp with bolt-on type mods.

mmmVTEC

underdrive crank pulley is more effective than any other underdriving pulleys, but unless things have changed since i looked into it that means you'll be ditching your harmonic damper. nice hot debate topic there...

mmmVTEC

re: 8.8:1 CR, true, but that means you can advance the hell out of the timing, especially with higher octane gas and/or water injection. 8.8:1 says to me "give me turbo"...definitely not a typical NA number

jagged4698

you say when i add the underdrive crank pulley i loose the harmonic dampener? What exactly does that mean for the performance of the engine? does that mean the engine will make more noise or does that mean i will basically loose the power i'm supposed to be gaining?

mmmVTEC

it won't affect the performance at all, but it might affect the longevity of the engine. i know a guy (forum buddy) that got a leaky mainseal from the extra vibration that results from having no damper. I4 engines are one of the only (maybe the only) engine that really needs one nowadays. the leaky mainseal isn't a sure thing though, i'm still probably gonna do it eventually.

i20ar

you could bore out your intake throttle body for around 100$ or you could swap a intake Throtle body from an H and bore that out.. thats what you could try with about 250$

daveedd357

I dyno tested my car and made 152hp and 162tq with f22b2 bottom, vtec head, high flow cat, balancer shaft belt removal with ractive intake and thrush turbo muffler.

mmmVTEC

that should beat my time by a chunk, i seriously doubt i'm over 140/140 at the wheels. that balancer shaft belt removal must've freed up a lot...how long ago did you do it?