gazaaccord

Changed fuel pump,map ,distributor, coil,checked main relay(good) but still have backfire an bog down, rough running engine but when i block return line revs good. Put another fuel pressure regulator fron driving accord but didnt fix problem. Could it b a clogged catalytic converter? i need some help fast b4 i lose my mind. Mayb something i miss. Timing is dead on.

GhostAccord

When were your valves adjusted last? If it's been a while you should look into checking the valve adjustment. You could also run a quick compression test on all the cylinders.

What do your spark plugs look like? You can tell a lot about an engines condition from reading the condition of the spark plugs.

holmesnmanny

check mechanical timing and if that's good check for clogged cat ya

gazaaccord

Ghostaccord-
...father let timing belt break so it bent 8 exhaust valves. replace all so valve timing is correct compression is good did rings an bearings an new head gasket an check head all good. When i look at spark plugs yesterday they looked black so mean it mite b running rich. And timing is dead on even tried to set a teeth off to see it makes a difference. Non at all. Toda gonna disconnect down pipe an see how that works if it clogged catalytic that should confirm.

brakedrum

Another thought. Your Accord's symptoms sound like mine's when the O2 sensor went bad a while back. It never showed a check engine light or stored a code, but backfiring and bogging (barely driveable at times) was very prominent. The bad O2 makes rich or lean due to sending crazy readings to the computer and IACV.

gazaaccord

brakedrum-
......so how did u kno for sure it was the o2 sensor? did u unplug it and symptoms went away? how did test it to confirm it was the problem?

anyways i removed the exhaust manifold and started her up and she seems to b running fine without it. does this mean that my cat converter is clogged? when i went to check for a cat converter i didnt see any i saw a flex pipe and two silencers and the muffler. the o2 sensor was right b4 the flew pipe. can it b that the flex pipe is clogged or the silencers r clogged? but i was told by someone to make a big cut in the silencers one by one and see if doing that fixes the problem. can this method of testing for a clogged exhaust system work?

brakedrum

gaza.. I diagnosed mine by analyzing the symptoms. Once I knew I was dealing with a choke/sputter/backfire and not an ignition miss, I was able to zero in. I tested (Haynes) the IACV, TPS, etc. -- all good. Fuel pressure good. Compression test - good. Finally one night after one of the hard bogging drives, I turned off the ignition and the intake sputtered a few times trying to blow out the last of the lean mix and I also smelled gas. The O2 was then my target. Got a new Denso as Advance auto parts the next day and put it in and engine ran perfectly. I had to reset the idle because I had been playing with the air screw hoping that if I kept the idle rpm's up, it would help deal with the bogging.

You can also unplug the 02 and run without it a bit and see what happens. I'f no symptoms then you probably found the trouble. I could have tried that before buying one, but that sensor had 175,000 hard miles on it and needed to be replaced, anyway. I tend to believe that these Honda's all built the same way have similar things that go wrong with them when they run poorly, but your running problem could be something different than my suggestion.

gazaaccord

Ok this is whet I am with the 93 accord. Got the car to rev out the proper way. I took out and cleaned injectors and changed filter too. Now when I drive and I come to a stop the car shuts off. some one said that it sounds like it my brake booster. So I changed it and it was bad now after replacing the booster the car gives me two codes. #1-43-fuel system supply and #2-iac valve. Could it b that cause I changed the booster its causing a problem in fuel Delivery and now causing problem with iac valve?

holmesnmanny

fuel supply system code normally indicates exhaust leak...which could have been your underlying problem the whole time...if you have a leak that causes the oxygen sensor to fail in no short time

your other issue could have been iac valve going bad...and now it is...not sure how the brake booster fits into this...these don't go bad very often

check for exhaust leaks using seafoam...if leak present...fix leak...then buy a new denso oxygen sensor and iacv valve

gazaaccord

Ok got an bug problem after working on car i went to start and CEL c came on. When started stays on but now it won't start. I even jump the blue connector but yet still light still on solid.does this mean computer fried? i csn even,read the codes cause its not flashing.

holmesnmanny

What all did you do to it when you "worked on it" ?

gazaaccord

ok im getting code 43. means fuel supply system. book says fuel supply system consist of injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injector resistor and main relay. checked them all they all good. and replaced fuel pump and pressure regulator. need some advice! please

Lost Again

You left out the O2 sensor or an exhaust leak pre O2?

gazaaccord

ok i replaced o2 sensor and im not getting the code 43 anymore but i still have the problem. everytime i drive for about 5 minutes and come to a stop light and hit the brakes the car rpm drops and the car shuts off. start right back up with no problem. please i need some help with this thanks for all the advice that you all have giving me.

holmesnmanny

What part of these two posts are you not understanding ?

Lost Again

Please check for leaks......

Also, clean the tb (get both sides and the edge of the butterfly - an old toothbrush works wonders for me) and the IACV (had a code for that before?).....wouldn't hurt to clean the FITV while there.