aware

Hi!

I'm working on an 89 Accord LXi 2.0 which has a battery drain. The battery does dead in about 36 hours. The culprit is Fuse #4 under the hood. (I used a trouble light between the battery terminal and the battery cable to determine this). The light goes out when this fuse is pulled.

What else besides the horn and brake lights does it protect? The chart just shows those 2 items plus seat belt retractors (not on this vehicle) Brake lights and horn work fine so there must be another system that this fuse protects.

Thanks!

Ben

Chiovnidca

Have you tried unplugging the horns? Sometimes they can be little bastards.

deserthonda

the only things that fuse runs is horns, brake, belts which you stated you dont have and if it is an automatic , the interlock solenoid ...i tend to agree with Chio i have seen a **** load of horns do weird things make sure you unplug both of them, at least 1 at a time if you want to test each 1 separatelly .
leave horns unplugged and see what happens if that's not it leave brake switch unplugged

JimBlake

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aware &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... The chart just shows those 2 items plus seat belt retractors (not on this vehicle)...</TD></TR></TABLE>Is it possible motorized seatbelts were originally on the car but someone took them off? Disabled them incorrectly so there's some part of that circuit still there drawing a load??

aware

Thanks Chiovnidca, Chi, DesertHonda and JimBlake.

1. Since the relay wasn't sticking, I didn't unplug the horns - figuring no power would be going to them - but I sure will try it.

I haven't tried the solenoid yet and it is an automatic. Will try disconnecting the solenoid.

2. I tried to get a wiring diagram from AllData but they don't supply Honda info any more at the request of Honda USA!

3. The seatbelts have regular retractors on them. The owner DID unplug the overhead buzzer and light that warned that the driver's seat belt (or door?) was open - when it wasn't.

4. How is the instrument cluster cover removed? I removed the top panel and 2 screws but I don't see how the bottom detaches. Don't want to break these seemingly fragile plastic pieces.

THANKS!

Ben

deserthonda

i just tought of an incident i had once before same issue and it turned out to be the door latch ..........do you know how to hook up a amp meter in series in the battery and chk the milliamp draw???? if so hook it up and have a friend open the door and close the latch manually use a screwdriver ,, chk both doors and see if 1 is different than the other as a matter of facts mine did turn out to be left door latch at fault

aware

Hi again,

Is that on the same circuit? Does that just turn the interior lights off and on and turn on the light/buzzer?

How does the current draw difference relate to the battery drain? Or are you talking about the buzzer/light coming on. That only happens with the key on.

The lights do go off when the door is closed, so that part works.

A little fuzzy on this one.

Thanks again!

Ben


Modified by aware at 6:40 AM 6/21/2005

deserthonda

yes fuse # 4 is in same circuit... here is what you can try
under left side of dash at kick panel there is a 6 wires white plug it controls the left side seat belt/ door latch unplut it and see if that helps,,, if not try the right side below rt side dash at kick panel there is a 14 wires white connector it controls rt side belt/latch by unplugging those connectors you are totally eliminating left and rt seat belt circuits including door latches ,,by the way 1 of the wire that whould be on both connectors is white/yellow....let me know what happens

deserthonda

yo Aware post here the results of what you find

97tegGS

It also says ignition switch. Perhaps some bad connections...

aware

Thanks deserthonda and everyone else!

I disconnected both horns, the brake light switch and the interlock solenoid plus the driver's door switch (just in case) and there was still a draw.

Upon putting the battery cable back on, I heard a click. No one was there with me to listen for the origin but it sounded like the passenger door. It was much quieter today. I didn't hear that yesterday.

I used deserthonda's suggestion and disconnected one harness and the clicking was further away now - in the driver's door. Disconnected the other one and low and behold the drain was gone!

I cut the white/yellow wires on both sides (the only ones with power with the key off) and reconnected the plugs so that the power windows and mirrors would work.

Thanks again deserthonda

Are the solenoids that were clicking and staying on important? Nothing seemed to change. The driver's side lap belt doesn't activate (lock) when breaking but everything else seems fine.

Best regards,

Ben

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aware &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are the solenoids that were clicking and staying on important? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, if they're the ones on the seatbelt retractors on the doors.

aware

Can you tell me what they do?

I don't see any change in operation of the seatbelts.

Chiovnidca

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aware &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you tell me what they do?

I don't see any change in operation of the seatbelts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They allow the seatbelt to catch when it is pulled out quickly. (such as if you were in an accident) And they disable that mechanism when opening the door. I cant recall which way they are energized, dont have a manual here.

When you are in the car with the doors shut and the engine running, Does the seatbelt catch if you pull on it quickly?