Perry3147

Ok I am new to the whole honda thing. I am a harley motorcycle tech so trouble shooting im good with. ok here is the story my girl friend has been driving my 1992 accord which i got from my brother. i have been doing the usual oil changes and tune ups. then one day out of the blue she gose to lunch and it wont start when she is going back to work. that night i had it towed i checked the basics fuel, air, spark. found no spark. did some checking and the coil ohmed out bad. no big deal went got a new one and a cap and rotor at the same time it was due for the cap and rotot. car fired right up and i drove the car for 2 days. check engine came on checked the codes engine air control code 14. went away for the weekend, monday went to goto work and it just cranks. so i cleaned idle air control valve. and got nothing. checked the fast idle it was good. changed the plugs and the only thing out wrong was the valve cover leaking oil into the spark plug holes. i let them drain put the new plugs in wires back on and it fired right up. took my truck to dinner when i got back i tryed it and it just cranks. so i need some help this is what i have done

new coil
new battery like a month ago
new cap
new rotor
new plugs
cleaned iac valve
adjusted fic
re soildered main relay

i have checked the fuel pump its working good


thanks for any help you can offer

john

jdmwannabee

change spark plug tube seals. the top and bottom ones.

Perry3147

i plan on changing the valve cover gasket one i get it to my buddies shop. it's a little cold here in pa still snowing and all. now other than solving the oil leak what will that help with?

jdmwannabee

get the valve cover gasket that comes with the spark plug tube seals and new valve cover grommets etc.... I'm thinking the oil in the tubes is interfering with you getting spark and that's why it's not starting. you cleaned out the tubes before and it started right up correct?

brakedrum

I know you just replaced the battery, but, for what it's worth, take a minute and inspect the cable that runs from the negative terminal of your battery to the ground on the car chassis. Inspect the length of that wire and check for signs of damage, rusty corrosion, etc. Also check the positive one after unhooking the negative side. If that negative cable especially is not in good shape, your car can light up like a christmas tree (air, radio, wipers, lights, etc.) but still not enough for the load involved in starting. Those cables are worth checking before putting any more hit or miss money into the problem. Good luck.

westsidehonda

It's a shot in the dark without laying hands on the car but the Ignition Control Modules go bad also and can work sporadically. The ICM is in the distributor.

sublime423

Bad igniters, a very common failure.....way more common than the coils(external)

you are showing all the symptoms...

a bit of advise:
when removing the igniter screws be very very carful they tend to strip if you don't apply enough pressure on top of the screw when turning it....use a snap on screwdriver with the teeth in the tip for the gripping force if possible.

justinbobby808

are you getting spark when it doesn't start?? only thing left is your igniter and ECM in your igntion system. if you have spark you need to start looking at other systems.

Perry3147

Ok sorry its been so long i work way to much and i had drill over the weekend. ok it wasn't the igniter i found a cracked wire that conects to it taped it off she runs. let her sit for two days still sarts. i drove it to work today ran great but the check engine light came on about 8 miles into my 11 mile drive. checked it and i got codes 15 and 43. I looked online 15 is suposed to be the ignition output signal and 43 is the fuel supply system. when i got to work it was acting like it needed the tps adjusted reving up then droping and repeating. tonight on the way home from work light came on again same codes but no tps symptoms. any ideas there i am going to adjust the fast idle it at around 1200 now when its warm and 2000 when its cold way to high.

Perry3147

ok here is another update i changed the pcv valve since i cracked it. car ran fine no codes for 2 days now. today sunday my only day off this week i got the valve cover gasket kit and changed the valve cover. i only changed the rings at the top of the spark plug tubes on the valve cover. and now it won't start again. any thoughts.

sublime423

Can you tell me why you know you don't have a bad igniter?

Perry3147

i am still getting spark even when it is not starting and it ohm's out good

sublime423

you have these results when the car is not starting?

Perry3147

yes i have spark even when it is not starting

kronikally420

Have you tried replacing the ECU? you are getting fire, but it might not be at the right time? /shrug im still learning alot

Perry3147

ok here is what i found i have a buddy whos friend works at a dealer. he went on the computer and found a service bulliton from 93. they had a problem with the cars not starting becouse of a bad bearing in the distrib. pulled it off and did the test's that it said and it was bad. they told you how to repack it with grease but i opted to get a reman. which came with a new igniter. fired up not even half a crank now im just waiting to see if it gets cold here again that is when we will know if its fixed.

gatormeup

mine was doing something o fthis nature(93 accord) and mine was the main relay under the dash, i would get spark, and it would spin all day, but until that relay kicked on, nothing, some days it would do fine, some NOT..... used to aggravate the crud out of me, replaced it for about 40 bucks, now she cranks everytime!!! (i also have a 91 that did this) my .02

firefighter2461

Try checking your main relay. Located high under the dash. I have a 92 Accord EX and I had the same problem. So frustrating! I tested the ignitor coil and it ohmed bad (replaced it). All other starting components were fine. But when I started reading other forums about the main relay over and over again I decided to make the effort!! Was well worth it!! Click the URL at the bottom of my reply it'll walk you through all the steps! Also, I took a large magnifying glass and you could see the cracks at the solder joints! Just look REALLY close at each joint and all around it as it is hard to see with the naked eye! I almost missed a cracked joint. Have had zero problems since the fix! Hope it works out for you!!http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php