EKJOE

I finished up my LS/VTEC build about a month ago but im having a few problems.

The engine really runs good when warm, But on cold start it will NOT idle. On startup the car runs lean (around 10 AFR) But as it warms up the ECU starts to compensate and slowly brings the AFR back to 14.7 and thats when it will finally idle.

I am running the hondata s300 and done as much as I know how to do to get the car running at stoich, But on cold start its the same thing every time. Also even when warm after running it for awhile somtimes when I stop at a light...the idle will be kicked up between 1500 - 1800.

Ever since the first startup I have been throwing the CEL14. I went ahead and changed out the IACV and TPS sensors with new ones, But that made no difference and I do not have a FICV.

Im also having some electrical problems as well, Like everytime I turn my heater motor on or off while dataloging...It will lockup the s300 and Im then forced to restart it by shutting the car off and then back on for it to work again. I drove the car once in heavy rain and all my electronics went haywire....Like when I would turn my windsheild wipers on the gauge cluster would completely cut out, Then if I turned them off it would come right back.

I feel like the electrical problems may be a grounding issue but thats just a guess, and I have no idea where to go from here with the idle and CEL 14 problem. I need to resolve this issues over the winter so I can get the car tuned in the spring.

Any help is greatly needed and appreciated.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

Looks like a clean setup. I would recommend doing some continuity testing between the ecu & the iacv plug. I would then recommend inspecting for proper voltage to the iacv etc per the helms manual instructions.

If everything looks ok, I would then recommend trying the s300 ecu in another vehicle with no issues to see if the iacv code pops up on a vehicle that has no iacv issues.

EKJOE

Thanks for the compliment man, I have worked VERY hard on this build.

I have not done the continuity test between the ECU and the IACV yet, But I have tested the voltage coming to the IACV and its correct, as is the voltage to the TPS with the TB shut and wide open.

The ECU is a OBD1 P72, I suppose I could try it in my 93 civic? It has a D15 in it...Would it help me by testing it in that car?

EKJOE

Heres a little more info on my setup.

CEL 14 is my only error code.

1997 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
B18A1 Bottom
B16A2 Top
CTR Cams
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Blox 66mm Throttlebody
NGK BKR7E Plugs
Magnecor Plug Wires
Timing is 16 Degree's BTDC
New Map Sensor
New IACV
New Blox TPS Sensor
Blox FPR
RC 310 Injectors
LS Stock Fuel Rail
OBD2A To OBD1 Conversion Harness
P72 ECU
Hondata S300
Aftermarket Crank Pulley
No FICV
99' SI Gauge Cluster
New Heater Core
No radio connected

My idle does not change when the IACV is connected or disconnected, idles the exact same.

400 Watt power inverter hooked directly to the battery,Those wires do run parallel with the engine wire harness coming through the firewall into the cab. (It has a manual power switch)

EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve bypassed, Idle and CEL does not change with it connected.

Dash is Not Completely Put Back Together, Still some wires hanging around for things like the lighter.

My rear defrost doesnt work, I havent tested to see if its getting correct voltage.

Previous owner removed rear window wiper, No idea if those wires are still just hanging out touching somthing they shouldnt be.

Oil and Wideband Gauge power are tied into an ignition wire that comes up to the ignition module (Where your key goes).

The mass ground for the vehicle is bolted underneath the passenger side dash to the sub frame, But there is paint there...Its not bare metal.

All paint under the hood is new, So all grounds under the hood are also touching paint..Not bare metal.

Having problems with coolant leaking into the car from the hoses that conect to the heater core, So that would be a way for air to enter the cooling system...But my heat cranks...Theres no fluctuations in heat at all.

Like I said, Turning on the blower motor cause's hondata to freeze up.

And last but certainly not least, My electronics go haywire in heavy rain.



I tried to think of anything I could...Maybe that list will spark somthing in someones mind.

EKJOE

Bump...Anyone have any other ideas?

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

What model civic ?
Ex, Dx, Cx ?

I have a feeling the issue is the wiring or the ecu.

mouab18c1

iTrader: (5)

try a different ecu.....im not to fond with s300 but if u have one then try a p28 and just find a ls/vtec base map...i have a poormans type r and running a stock p72 ecu runs my car like shyt...

EKJOE

What model civic ?
Ex, Dx, Cx ?


Its a 93 Civic DX 4 door, It is OBD1 I believe.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

The picture of the car you have is an ek 96 and up civic.

EKJOE

I thought you were asking me what model my 93 was, thats the car I was talking about putting the P72 w/S300 in to test it.

The car with the LS/VTEC throwing the CEL14 (Pictured) is a 97 Civic DX hatchback.

EKJOE

So I thought maybe the IACV signal wire needed to be moved from A12 to A14, Which I did and then realized it was already jumped there on the conversion harness :/

So then after that obviously didnt change anything, I did what I should have done in the first place which was check continuity...and there was none. Thats pretty weird considering I remember measuring the correct voltage from the plug side.

But yea, Im going to run some new wires and see what happens.

EKJOE

I fixed the idle problem a few days ago.

It was indeed the IACV wired wrong...In fact, It was wired backwards.

As soon as I fixed the wiring the car fired right up on cold start and idled, It also responded to idle changes in hondata which is great and code 14 is gone!

So now im on to trying to figure out why my electronics go haywire in the rain...and also trying to figure out why when I turn my blower motor on, it locks up my s300 when datalogging.

The rain also affected the way the car ran, It started to bog and lean out...Then it would go back to normal and repeat the process. (keep in mind everything on this engine is brand new)

I was reading some posts about the ICU getting wet and making things go crazy, Which is a good possibility for me because almost every seal in the car leaks water.

Anyone have any ideas right off hand I could check out? Or any troubleshooting methods to try and track down the problem?