ss73

I have a question about the e-brake on my 07 accord v6, how does the "screw" system work? Does it allow the piston to be backed all the way out with just the E-brakes?


The reason i am asking is because i was doing the rear brakes on my 07 accord v6.

While the caliper is out (unbolted from the bracket, no pads, just by it self) somebody managed to pull the e-brakes. It was still connected to the e-brake cable and brake lines.

The piston did come out some, but not all the way out, i didn't notice any brake fluid coming out, so i screwed it back in and proceed with the brake job.

My question: I figured that since no fluid came out and the piston didn't back all the way out i should be safe from getting air in the system. But its bugging me.....Do you guys think i need to bleed the brakes??



thanks guys

egman92

there is a special tool for that advance has them heres the tool number
KD Tools Disc Brake Piston Tool - KDT3163

Calif_Kid

Harbor Freight sells a tool like that, but if that doesn't quite work (where it slips out of the grooves), then they also have a few full kits like Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit 18 Pc. I bought their full kit years ago, and I thought that the price was say $30 or $35 instead of the current $49.99. - Jim

B serious

iTrader: (1)

^I think you guys misunderstood the question. He already has them screwed in.

OP. Do your brakes feel mushy with the car turned on? If not, they're probably fine.

But...bleeding them completely takes about 5-10 minutes and one person. Make a one-man bleeder out of a water bottle and a vacuum hose. If you have a slight doubt...why question it?

Calif_Kid

Bserious - good catch on that.

Just wondering though - if those adjusters are manually screwed completely back into the caliper, then do they readjust when the brake pedal is pressed, or when the emergency brake is pulled on, or ? On old drum brakes, I remember hearing that the adjusters would adjust when you went into reverse and then hit the brakes, so just wondering when the screw adjusters actually adjust for disc brakes.

PS - on my vehicles and truck, I usually bleed the brakes by myself using a Motiv brake bleeder bottle with the top of the hose somewhat higher than the bleeder like is shown at https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...ch-bottle-1810. I recently worked on the brakes on my 2000 Ford F150 truck, and just couldn't get the brakes bled enough to get a firm brake pedal. I finally realized that my brake bleeder setup was allowing air to get sucked in along the threads of the brake bleeder fitting when I let up on the brake pedal. I then removed each brake bleeder fitting, and put some teflon tape on the threads, and the brakes then bled perfectly. I saw some 'Speed Bleeders' at the auto show, and they also had some sealant on a section of the threads. Main point is that a seal (like teflon tape) is needed on the threads if you're trying to bleed the brakes by yourself, but may not be important if you're using two people. - Jim

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The nubs on the back of the brake pad keep the piston from twisting past a certain degree.

When you hit the brake pedal, the pistons move straight out.

When you pull the E brake, the pistons twist outward. Releasing the E brake releases the tension of the twisting so the piston retracts.

And...the E brake works the second time around because, as mentioned, the nubs on the back of the inboard brake pad keep the piston from freely twisting.

I don't have any sealant on my threads and I haven't had issues bleeding the brakes myself. The screw should be backed out just enough to open the port. I use a water bottle and a vacuum line. Its a $2 setup. And I was SOOO hydrated ommgggg