Upper Ball Joint How To DIY:
#1
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Upper Ball Joint How To DIY:
This takes 10 minutes per side and hand tools. This is done on my 91 prelude si so it may be a little different for the 92-96.
Basic tools:
2 Jacks (I used a floor jack and the tire jack that came with the car)
1 10mm socket
1 extension
1 17mm socket
1 Ratchet
1 Hammer
1 Needle Nose Pliars
1 Flat Head Screwdriver
First off jack the car up and remove the front wheel. Now its time to start:
Step 1:
Place a support jack under the lower control arm. This will stop the whole assembly from dropping down when you try to remove the nuts on the upper control arm for the balljoint. Make sure it is snug against the control arm and then raise it just a little bit, Dont over do it or you will have problems gettin the upper joint out.
Step 2:
Take your 10mm socket/ratchet/extension and remove this cover, set aside:
Step 3:
Loosen this nut with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Dont remove it, just loosen it:
Step 4:
Loosen these two nuts. After they are loose make sure the support jack under the lower control arm is snugged up and then proceed to remove these:
Step 5:
Remove the lower nut and cotter pin:
Step 6:
Take your hammer and hit the bottom stud on the balljoint to get it to pop out. You should then be left with this:
This is what your old upper joint and new look like, notice how smashed the old is and the boot is torn. Also it just wobbled around freely unlike the new one.
Step 7:
Take your new upper joint and put the two top nuts back on VERY LOOSELY!! I mean put them on like 2 turns and leave it alone.
Step 8:
Jack the lower control arm up until you can get the stud to go through the hole and get the lower nut to start on the threads. You can also push down on the upper control arm to get it to lower a little as well.
Step 9:
Once you have the lower nut started tighten the two top nuts down snug. After you snug them down then tighten the lower nut and reinsert the new cotter pin.
Step 10:
TIGHTEN ALL THREE 17MM NUTS TO TORQUE SPEC or just tighten them as tight as you can get them by hand (works for me).
Step 11:
Take the little cover and 2 10mm bolts and replace the cover.
Step 12:
Now you have this to be proud of:
Step 13:
Replace the wheel, tighten all lug nuts and drink a beer or whatever makes you happy.
This took me 10 minutes per side by myself to do with the tools I listed. Remember I did this on a 15 yr old car and everything came off with no problems or extra leverage on any bolts or nuts so good luck on yours
Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for any injury or accidents you may get into from doing this write up. This is strictly for informational purpose. If you choose to do it then I will not be held responsible.
Basic tools:
2 Jacks (I used a floor jack and the tire jack that came with the car)
1 10mm socket
1 extension
1 17mm socket
1 Ratchet
1 Hammer
1 Needle Nose Pliars
1 Flat Head Screwdriver
First off jack the car up and remove the front wheel. Now its time to start:
Step 1:
Place a support jack under the lower control arm. This will stop the whole assembly from dropping down when you try to remove the nuts on the upper control arm for the balljoint. Make sure it is snug against the control arm and then raise it just a little bit, Dont over do it or you will have problems gettin the upper joint out.
Step 2:
Take your 10mm socket/ratchet/extension and remove this cover, set aside:
Step 3:
Loosen this nut with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Dont remove it, just loosen it:
Step 4:
Loosen these two nuts. After they are loose make sure the support jack under the lower control arm is snugged up and then proceed to remove these:
Step 5:
Remove the lower nut and cotter pin:
Step 6:
Take your hammer and hit the bottom stud on the balljoint to get it to pop out. You should then be left with this:
This is what your old upper joint and new look like, notice how smashed the old is and the boot is torn. Also it just wobbled around freely unlike the new one.
Step 7:
Take your new upper joint and put the two top nuts back on VERY LOOSELY!! I mean put them on like 2 turns and leave it alone.
Step 8:
Jack the lower control arm up until you can get the stud to go through the hole and get the lower nut to start on the threads. You can also push down on the upper control arm to get it to lower a little as well.
Step 9:
Once you have the lower nut started tighten the two top nuts down snug. After you snug them down then tighten the lower nut and reinsert the new cotter pin.
Step 10:
TIGHTEN ALL THREE 17MM NUTS TO TORQUE SPEC or just tighten them as tight as you can get them by hand (works for me).
Step 11:
Take the little cover and 2 10mm bolts and replace the cover.
Step 12:
Now you have this to be proud of:
Step 13:
Replace the wheel, tighten all lug nuts and drink a beer or whatever makes you happy.
This took me 10 minutes per side by myself to do with the tools I listed. Remember I did this on a 15 yr old car and everything came off with no problems or extra leverage on any bolts or nuts so good luck on yours
Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for any injury or accidents you may get into from doing this write up. This is strictly for informational purpose. If you choose to do it then I will not be held responsible.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Upper Ball Joint How To DIY: (uneek4dr)
yea, for all other preludes, its like this
Go on ebay
Order a new set of uppercontrol arms with balljoints
Install..
There are no replacement balljoints that i know of
Go on ebay
Order a new set of uppercontrol arms with balljoints
Install..
There are no replacement balljoints that i know of
#3
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That sucks. Im glad mine has a replaceable upper balljoint!! Those were $65 for the set. I did this to fix a vibration in my steering wheel which I think it helped but did not eliminate the problem. Next steps are new lower joints and new wheel bearings, then on to the tie rod ends.
#6
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Re: (iCe_2x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iCe_2x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autozone/Advance auto sells replacement ball joints for the 4th gen</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, I think your right.. I just couldn't get a REAR replacement.
Actually, I think your right.. I just couldn't get a REAR replacement.
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#9
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if it comes out just take a big *** hammer and smack it. you arent going to reuse it anyways so who cares if you damage it. Thats who I got mine out, just smacked it with the hammer till it popped out
#11
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if you are puttin it in the when you tighten the nut it will draw itself down. you dont need to press it in (if its anything like the 91 balljoint)
#14
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Not really, but essentially the UCA has a hole on the end where the ball joint is supposed to be pressed in.
I was told to take it a machine shop, but its saturday and I want it done for school by monday.. so I rented a press, just have no clue how to use it.
I was told to take it a machine shop, but its saturday and I want it done for school by monday.. so I rented a press, just have no clue how to use it.
#15
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Re: (iCe_2x)
instead of chaging the balltjoint alone, why not just get a whole new upper control arm and you will automatic have new bushings in there since you are at it. At least that's what I'm doing when replacing my upper and lower ball joints .
#16
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Re: (camil212)
Because a cheap upper control arm wasn't availible locally .
But turns out mine is too messed up to put a new ball joint in, so I had to order a UCA off ebay.
But turns out mine is too messed up to put a new ball joint in, so I had to order a UCA off ebay.
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