h22a1 into h23a1 si swap (93')
07-02-2008, 07:24 PM
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h22a1 into h23a1 si swap (93')
first off let me appoligize if i may be reposting, i searched all over.
ive dropped my h22 in the car. im using the h23 wiring harness and just running new wires for the vtec setup.
my questions are.
which pins of the ecu do i run the new wires?
- all the research ive done has told me pin D6 and pin A4, another site said somthing about pin A26. it just so happens that there are wires already in those pins.
is this because im running an h23 wiring harness?
- the illustrations show that only one wire is ran from the vtec pressure switch. although there are two wires coming from that connector.
what wire do i run to the ecu, and what do i do with the other wire?
i am running a 93' h22a1 with a p13 ecu. i dropped it into a 93' si h23a1 chassy.
please, any help would be appricated. ive been killing myself over this problem for about a week now, everynight.
thank you advance, again im sorry if i reposted.
Jered
ive dropped my h22 in the car. im using the h23 wiring harness and just running new wires for the vtec setup.
my questions are.
which pins of the ecu do i run the new wires?
- all the research ive done has told me pin D6 and pin A4, another site said somthing about pin A26. it just so happens that there are wires already in those pins.
is this because im running an h23 wiring harness?
- the illustrations show that only one wire is ran from the vtec pressure switch. although there are two wires coming from that connector.
what wire do i run to the ecu, and what do i do with the other wire?
i am running a 93' h22a1 with a p13 ecu. i dropped it into a 93' si h23a1 chassy.
please, any help would be appricated. ive been killing myself over this problem for about a week now, everynight.
thank you advance, again im sorry if i reposted.
Jered
07-02-2008, 07:28 PM
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Re: h22a1 into h23a1 si swap (93blulude)
Originally Posted by jdmlude_dude
I have notice that a lot of you guys have questions with running the VTEC wires. You all make it a whole lot harder than what it really is. I am going to give some tips for running the VTEC and making sure that you have a nice clean look when adding the wires.
Things you need:
* Vtec 5spd ecu
* A cut end of any Honda ECU wiring harness( you can get this from a junked car or a junk yard, you will need the pins out of it. Remember to cut off leaving as much wire as possible.)
* 20 or 18 gauge electrical wire(DO NOT USE SPEAKER WIRE)
* Butt connectors or your fav. type of wire connectors(soldering is better)
* Electrical tape
* Black wiring looms
* And of course a vtec h22
Ok here we go. I will start with a diagram of the P13 ecu. If you take the ecu and look at the pins as if it were in the car, say you lay it on a table with the top facing up and you look as the pins, the "A" pin numbers will start on the very right, Example:
Top side w/ the sticker
---------------D6-------------------------------------A4---
l --------------\/---- -------------- -------------------\/-- l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l Front of Car
l -------------------- -------------- ----------------------- l
-------------------------------------------------------------
Floorboard side
(Hope that turns out right.)
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
Pinning the ECU Wiring Harness
On any Honda ECU harness, the pins are removable.
1.) Now take that end of the ECU wiring harness that you got. If you notice along the side where the wires go into the plug, there is a clip, one clip on either side of the plug. Unclip the clip ( you may have to use a screw driver, it can be a pain). If you look into the ECU side of the plug, you will noticed that there are 2 different sizes of the pins. A larger one and a smaller one. You will need one of each. With a pair of pliers, take hold of the wire sticking out of the plug that is connected to the pin that you need and pull that pin out. It shouldn't be very hard and the wire should not pull out of the pin. If the wire pulls out of the pin, try pulling another wire with the same pin. That is why you get the whole plug of the ECU harness, just in case something messes up.
2.) Once you get your 2 pins out, you are ready to pin the ECU harness in your car. There are 3 harness ends that go into the ECU. The top harness (which is forward most plug when they are plugged into the ecu) houses pin A4. By looking at the ECU Diagram above, you can see which pin A4 is in the harness. The large pin will be put into the open hole in the harness. Add the pin into the ECU harness the same way you took it out. Open the clip and push the pin into the hole. Before you put then pin into the hole, make sure that it is turned the correct way, just look at the way the other pins are in. Once you figure that out..push it in all the way until it looks identical to all the other pins. Repeat this step for pinning D6 on the harness. It will be located in the bottom most harness of the ECU plugs (see the diagram above for the exact pin location) This hole in the ECU harness will use the smaller pin.
Running and connecting the wires.
1.) RUN ONLY ONE WIRE AT A TIME SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION ABOUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHAT.
Start by running one wire through the firewall in any place you would like to run it through at. I ran mine through a rubber plug just above the ECU. You can drill through the firewall, whatever you want to do to get the wires into the Engine bay.
Now that one wire is run, go ahead and strip the rubber coating off of both ends of the wire (it is a good idea to do this after the wiring is run so that you do not make a mess out of the ends of wire). Strip the end of the wire to the A4 pin. Connect the end of the pin wire and the wire that you ran through the firewall. Do this using butt connectors, solder and shrink-wrap, etc... I would prefer soldering it to make the best connection. (If you use butt connectors, be sure to wrap it with tape or strink wrap so that the wiring does not corrode.)
The Vtec solenoid has only one wire coming out of it. This wire is green/yellow. Connect the end of the first wire that you ran through the firewall and connect it to this wire whether it be by a plug harness, soldering, or butt connectors.
2.) Once this wire is run, go a head and repeat the same process with running the wire through the firewall and connecting it to the pin D6 on the ECU harness. Now you will connect the end of the second wire ran into the engine bay to the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch. There will be 2 wires coming out the Oil Pressure Switch. A light blue wire and a black wire. The light blue of course being the hot (+) wire and the black being ground (-) wire. Connect the wire ran through the firewall to the blue (+) wire on the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch using your desired way of connecting. Now you are left with the Black (-) wire. You will need to add some wire onto that wire to extend it so that it may be grounded off in your desired spot. Make sure the ground is good or else the system will not work. Use the valve cover, chassis of the car(scrape off any paint), etc... Just make sure it is good.
Starting everything up
Before cleaning the wires up, crank the car and run it. Make sure that Vtec engages around 5200 rpms. It may be quiet. If you are running past 6500 rpms, then Vtec is engaging. If vtec is not working properly the ECU will redline at 6500 rpms, just as it would if you took off while the motor was still cold. If everything works good, then go a head and hide the wiring. I decided to take some wire loom and put the wires in the loom. Then use black electrical tape to tape over the loom making it look like the rest of the factory looming.
There you have it. A full description of running the wires for the VTEC system. It is not difficult and takes time and patience. MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED BEFORE YOU EVER TOUCH THE WIRING SYSTEM IN A CAR. If there is anything missing that you feel needs to be added, feel free to PM me and so that I can make edits, I wrote this up kind of quick!! Thanks techs! ENJOY!!
*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE. IF YOU HAVE FEAR THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DO NOT DO IT. GET HELP. PM ME FOR DETAILED QUESTIONS.*
Things you need:
* Vtec 5spd ecu
* A cut end of any Honda ECU wiring harness( you can get this from a junked car or a junk yard, you will need the pins out of it. Remember to cut off leaving as much wire as possible.)
* 20 or 18 gauge electrical wire(DO NOT USE SPEAKER WIRE)
* Butt connectors or your fav. type of wire connectors(soldering is better)
* Electrical tape
* Black wiring looms
* And of course a vtec h22
Ok here we go. I will start with a diagram of the P13 ecu. If you take the ecu and look at the pins as if it were in the car, say you lay it on a table with the top facing up and you look as the pins, the "A" pin numbers will start on the very right, Example:
Top side w/ the sticker
---------------D6-------------------------------------A4---
l --------------\/---- -------------- -------------------\/-- l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l
l l oo . . . . . . . . o ll . . . . . . . . ll oo . . . . . . . . ooo l l Front of Car
l -------------------- -------------- ----------------------- l
-------------------------------------------------------------
Floorboard side
(Hope that turns out right.)
A4 = Vtec solenoid------------------Large pin
D6 = Vtec Oil Pressure Switch-----Small pin
Pinning the ECU Wiring Harness
On any Honda ECU harness, the pins are removable.
1.) Now take that end of the ECU wiring harness that you got. If you notice along the side where the wires go into the plug, there is a clip, one clip on either side of the plug. Unclip the clip ( you may have to use a screw driver, it can be a pain). If you look into the ECU side of the plug, you will noticed that there are 2 different sizes of the pins. A larger one and a smaller one. You will need one of each. With a pair of pliers, take hold of the wire sticking out of the plug that is connected to the pin that you need and pull that pin out. It shouldn't be very hard and the wire should not pull out of the pin. If the wire pulls out of the pin, try pulling another wire with the same pin. That is why you get the whole plug of the ECU harness, just in case something messes up.
2.) Once you get your 2 pins out, you are ready to pin the ECU harness in your car. There are 3 harness ends that go into the ECU. The top harness (which is forward most plug when they are plugged into the ecu) houses pin A4. By looking at the ECU Diagram above, you can see which pin A4 is in the harness. The large pin will be put into the open hole in the harness. Add the pin into the ECU harness the same way you took it out. Open the clip and push the pin into the hole. Before you put then pin into the hole, make sure that it is turned the correct way, just look at the way the other pins are in. Once you figure that out..push it in all the way until it looks identical to all the other pins. Repeat this step for pinning D6 on the harness. It will be located in the bottom most harness of the ECU plugs (see the diagram above for the exact pin location) This hole in the ECU harness will use the smaller pin.
Running and connecting the wires.
1.) RUN ONLY ONE WIRE AT A TIME SO THERE IS NO CONFUSION ABOUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHAT.
Start by running one wire through the firewall in any place you would like to run it through at. I ran mine through a rubber plug just above the ECU. You can drill through the firewall, whatever you want to do to get the wires into the Engine bay.
Now that one wire is run, go ahead and strip the rubber coating off of both ends of the wire (it is a good idea to do this after the wiring is run so that you do not make a mess out of the ends of wire). Strip the end of the wire to the A4 pin. Connect the end of the pin wire and the wire that you ran through the firewall. Do this using butt connectors, solder and shrink-wrap, etc... I would prefer soldering it to make the best connection. (If you use butt connectors, be sure to wrap it with tape or strink wrap so that the wiring does not corrode.)
The Vtec solenoid has only one wire coming out of it. This wire is green/yellow. Connect the end of the first wire that you ran through the firewall and connect it to this wire whether it be by a plug harness, soldering, or butt connectors.
2.) Once this wire is run, go a head and repeat the same process with running the wire through the firewall and connecting it to the pin D6 on the ECU harness. Now you will connect the end of the second wire ran into the engine bay to the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch. There will be 2 wires coming out the Oil Pressure Switch. A light blue wire and a black wire. The light blue of course being the hot (+) wire and the black being ground (-) wire. Connect the wire ran through the firewall to the blue (+) wire on the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch using your desired way of connecting. Now you are left with the Black (-) wire. You will need to add some wire onto that wire to extend it so that it may be grounded off in your desired spot. Make sure the ground is good or else the system will not work. Use the valve cover, chassis of the car(scrape off any paint), etc... Just make sure it is good.
Starting everything up
Before cleaning the wires up, crank the car and run it. Make sure that Vtec engages around 5200 rpms. It may be quiet. If you are running past 6500 rpms, then Vtec is engaging. If vtec is not working properly the ECU will redline at 6500 rpms, just as it would if you took off while the motor was still cold. If everything works good, then go a head and hide the wiring. I decided to take some wire loom and put the wires in the loom. Then use black electrical tape to tape over the loom making it look like the rest of the factory looming.
There you have it. A full description of running the wires for the VTEC system. It is not difficult and takes time and patience. MAKE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED BEFORE YOU EVER TOUCH THE WIRING SYSTEM IN A CAR. If there is anything missing that you feel needs to be added, feel free to PM me and so that I can make edits, I wrote this up kind of quick!! Thanks techs! ENJOY!!
*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE. IF YOU HAVE FEAR THAT YOU DO NOT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING, DO NOT DO IT. GET HELP. PM ME FOR DETAILED QUESTIONS.*
07-02-2008, 07:46 PM
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Re: h22a1 into h23a1 si swap (High Reved Racing)
that is the best information i have read yet!!! thank you very much i THINK i have a good understanding of it now. i'm going to go double check my harness right now to make sure i was looking at the right location for the new wires. maybe i had it flipped the wrong way or somthing.
again thank you.
direct and to the point.
again thank you.
direct and to the point.
07-03-2008, 01:43 PM
#4
And with a 93, you probably do have those wires run into the engine bay already. Mine were, the green wire was on the pass side shock tower, ready to go pretty much, and I had to dig in the harness over by the abs unit to find the light blue wire, just check and then make sure you have continuity to the right pins on the ecu harness. Makes it alot easier than trying to repin a plug and run wires through the firewall.
07-04-2008, 04:55 AM
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07-04-2008, 05:02 AM
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Re: (vlang29)
and that black wire coming out of the pressure is just a ground.
I would definately check to see if it's pre-wired for vtec before trying to re-pin the ecu.
If you are pre-wired for vtec, you will have this vtec solenoid plug:
Check for the baby blue wire in this connector (on the firewall side of the plug, not the engine side)
I would definately check to see if it's pre-wired for vtec before trying to re-pin the ecu.
If you are pre-wired for vtec, you will have this vtec solenoid plug:
Check for the baby blue wire in this connector (on the firewall side of the plug, not the engine side)
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