NoVALude

Ok, H22A4 block going into my H23...

I just got my engine back from the shop and when I swap out the auto tensioner and put on the cranshaft pulley, do I need a gear as well for the timing set-up? I removed the bal. shafts and currently the set up looks like the timing belt walks off. Here are some pics:


These two show the washer on the crank bolt:





Here is a pic of the set up BEFORE...


And here is a preview of what I intend to swap into the LUDE...



Any help?

Missing Gears

i am assuming that spacer in front of the tbelt gear takes the place of the balance belt gear. it looks like its tall enough to cover the teeth of the t belt, that should keep it from walking off. no?

NoVALude

Do you mean that spacer along with the crank pulley? I have the pulley that came with it, however I am opting to stay OBD-1 will re-use all of my accessories and thus will be using the crank pulley currently on the car (depending on shape when I pull the engine.)

The engine is currently at a friend's house since it was easier than lugging it up 2 flights of stairs to get into my apartment, so I really have not looked at it yet. Hopefully I am doing the swap within the next 2-3 weeks!

flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">currently the set up looks like the timing belt walks off.

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I didn't fully understand what you are asking. I guess the problem is that the belt walks off? If this is what you are seeing, make sure that the right-most bolt in the above picture is not bent. This special bolt holds the tensioning mechanism, and it can bend if you just take a ratchet and a deep socket and lean on it. If it is bent, it can make the belt want to run at an angle and come off the gears. If you are planning to replace the tensioning mechanism with the H23 parts, then I would do that and see if the problem goes away. The same theory holds though. The long bolt holding the bearings on the H23 is usually put in with loc-tite, so if you get a wrench out on the end of it and really lean on it you could bend it. Apply torque only, not a side load and you should have no problems. Good luck.

Missing Gears

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you mean that spacer along with the crank pulley? I have the pulley that came with it, however I am opting to stay OBD-1 will re-use all of my accessories and thus will be using the crank pulley currently on the car (depending on shape when I pull the engine.)

The engine is currently at a friend's house since it was easier than lugging it up 2 flights of stairs to get into my apartment, so I really have not looked at it yet. Hopefully I am doing the swap within the next 2-3 weeks!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

in your pic w/ the arrow drawn on it im looking at a spacer in front of the tbelt sprocket, it looks thick enough to take the place of the balance belt sprocket, and looks big enough diameter to keep the belt from walking off. was this included in the block off kit?

NoVALude

Yeah the spacer was included in the kit from Kaizenspeed. The spacer in addition to the crank pulley should be enough to keep the belt on right?


(thanks to skrewdlude) I bought a spacer today that will go on the right most bolt that I think will help also....since there is no bal. shaft belt bearing.

Also, I am not sure if the bolt is bent or not, but before I swap this in I am going to go ahead and get new components (bolts, washer, spring, bearing, etc.) just to be safe.





Modified by NoVALude at 7:43 AM 1/9/2006

Missing Gears

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah the spacer was included in the kit from Kaizenspeed. The spacer in addition to the crank pulley should be enough to keep the belt on right?


(thanks to skrewdlude) I bought a spacer today that will go on the right most bolt that I think will help also....since there is no bal. shaft belt bearing.

Also, I am not sure if the bolt is bent or not, but before I swap this in I am going to go ahead and get new components (bolts, washer, spring, bearing, etc.) just to be safe.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

NoVALude

just out of curisoity, how difficlut is it to remove the timing belt and do the swap? Obviously some are better than others re: mechanical know how. I have a service manual and am pretty confident that I can follow along.


Any comments or suggestions?

flyrod

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NoVALude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just out of curisoity, how difficlut is it to remove the timing belt and do the swap? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a piece of cake with the engine out of the car. It's pretty cramped with it in the car...

NoVALude

That is what I figured. I looked over the manual a few times and I had the block in my room when I first got it assembled as shown in the pic (without the head but with the bal. shafts, crank pulley, brackets, etc.) and I was able to disassemble the engine entirely by myself without power tools and just the manual....


I am just worried about throwing off timing or something. I think right now the cam gears are at 0,0 and the crank is at TDC...