friutoftheLude

Ive finally decided to troubleshoot my ABS problem, been looking at my yellow light the whole year ive owned the car

Pulled the codes:

16- RR wheel sensor
51- motor lock
53- motor stuck on
54- fail-safe relay
61- ignition voltage
81- cpu

-Ive been reading up on all the DTCs, and im wondering if i should replace the CPU first, and maybe the others (or at least 1) would fix itself???

-I finally found a Prelude at a junkyard and pulled the ABS module (the cpu was gone)

-i also have an ABS cpu coming soon, guy in VA has one

-going back to the junkyard today to see if the RR wheel sensor is there too

-and so im guessing just replace the F/S relay???

- I heard that Ignition voltage could be something to do with battery?alternator??


Ive gotten much help over the year ive owned this Prelude (2001 base btw)
from this site, from my clutch replacement, to motor mounts, and my shocks and strut install and i appreciate any and all of the help i get with this, thanks

Im not a rich man, so i dont want to waste money on things, but i like to do all my work myself, just dont wanna buy all this stuff BEFORE the cpu, then the cpu fixes everything by itself

92PurpleLude

I may be removing my ABS on my 4th gen next weekend, I dont know if the parts are interchangeable between 4th and 5th, but I will have any sensors etc. that you may need.

dbd6604

Why is there so much wrong with your ABS system? Check all your ABS related fuses and relays to make sure they're all good, before you go replacing a bunch of expensive stuff.

friutoftheLude

yeah, ive thrown the same 6 codes since i bought it, ill check it out, ill update on my progress, i got the cpu for 36$

The RR wheel sensor was cut in half when i went back to the junkyard today, but I finally got a doorlock actuator, im gonna go back tomorrow to get the fail-safe relay and replace that first

friutoftheLude

nobody told me how hard it was to get to the relay, lol didnt know which one it was, so i pulled em all, will put it in when it stops raining

friutoftheLude

So, great day to troubleshoot ABS, i put in the Fail-safe relay, and same 6 codes popped up, no change

I replaced the ABS cpu, and all the codes went away except for:

51- Motor Lock
53- Motor stuck On

- so now im down to the last 2, which i pulled the motor the other day and ill switch it out when i get around to bleeding the brakes..

On thing that puzzles me, is after i replaced the relay and cpu, my passenger window would not work, from the drivers side or the passenger side, so i have to check that out too lol

friutoftheLude

im a dumba**, lol.... a friend of mine sat in the car and hit my passenger window lock and i didnt know it

96-h22a1

lol, keep us updated with the abs troubleshooting. I've been staring at my abs light for about 2 years now.

friutoftheLude

will do, soon as i get a good day again, supposed to approach 60 deg. tomorrow and friday

BTW, forgot to mention, my fail-safe relay was missing when i started to investigate, but the code still came up after i plugged one in.. until i replaced the cpu

Since ive replaced the CPU, the ABS light went off twice, ive never noticed when it goes out, ive looked down twice since fix and the light has been out, still on all the time though, same 2 codes

friutoftheLude

ok, so i switched out my ABS motor/unit yesterday, i got halfway through bleeding the brakes, both fronts were bled (not sure if i bled them long enough) then it started to rain

also when i was at it, i figured to change out my rotors and brakes while im down there, slotted and drilled

when it started to rain i didnt get to the rear to bleed yet, when i got in the car, the pedal was good and tight when the car is off, but while i drive the pedal drops to the floor and i cant stop until i pump a few times, then itll start to stop the car

i figure its something to do with not bleeding the rears and/or not bleeding the fronts right in a rain rush lol

hopefully i didnt mess up my MC or booster, ive read these could be issues too, but im sure its the bleeding issue

and, ive thought about how i bled them, i bled them "in-between" rotors, i had the caliper off during bleeding in the front, so i could point the fluid downward.......would THAT be an issue also??

im gonna tackle this again today, rain permitting

man i hope its just me rushing on the front bleed and not bleeding the rears at all, we'll see

friutoftheLude

re-bled the brakes, everything is Bon!! (good) lol

no ABS light illuminating my dash no mo

all 6 codes nowhere to be found, hopefully this helps someone else, if one of your codes is the ABS cpu, replace it first, because that alone triggered 4 different codes by itself.......... thanks for the help guys

gstrudler

Just an FYI for everyone one looking through here, there is a special procedure to clear ABS codes. Pulling the battery cable or ECU fuse will NOT clear the codes like it does a CEL, that is why the codes didn't disappear until you swapped the whole ABS control unit. There is a separate 2-pin connector under the dash on the driver's side (yellow I think, at least on the 5th gen). The whole procedure is in the manual, but basically it's something like you jump the connector, turn the ignition on, the ABS light will come on and then go off, and then you unjump the connector within 5 seconds, the light will go on and off again, you rejump the connector again within 5 seconds and then the light will come on solid (and I think flash twice first or something) indicating the codes are cleared. This is from memory from doing this several years ago, but it's something similar. Sorry OP I couldn't have told you sooner. And yes, the mushy pedal would be from not properly bleeding the brakes, which iirc are usually done back to front (work your way from the farthest caliper from the ABS motor, so RR, RL, FR, FL I think).

friutoftheLude

yeah, sorry i forgot to mention that, some of the DTCs for the ABS will reset themselves once you turn the key off then on again, but some of them need to be erased like above

just like its written in the manual:

1. find the service connector on pass. side (same blue one you used to get the codes)and jump it

2. depress the brake pedal

3. Turn the ignition switch on while keeping the brake pedal depressed

4. after the ABS indicator light goes off, release the brake pedal

5. after the indicator light comes on, depressed the brake pedal again

6. after the indicator light goes off, release the brake pedal again

7. after a few seconds the indicator light blinks twice, and the DTC is erased, if the indicator light does not blink twice, repeat steps 1-6, if the indicator light stays ON after it blinks twice, check the DTC because these is a problem detected



What i read in the same helms bleed brakes, drivers front, pass front, pass rear, driver rear

yeah, i almost hit a few cars that day, it started to rain really hard and i didnt get to bleed the rears, amazing how a little air in the lines can mess up the brakes THAT much