crxaddikt

i can't believe this even happened, but i know that you have to expect things to happen when doing car repairs, but i put in a new fuel filter and everything was going smooth with no problems, and i got the main stuff out of the way, put the new one back on and in my haynes manual it says for torque:

banjo bolt is - 16 ft/lbs
service bolt - 108 ft/lbs
clamp bolt (bracket that holds filter) - 108 ft/lbs

so i just do exactly how the book says with my torque wrench (the kind with a dial) and i barely get to 25 and already the head of the service bolt snaps off!!!, and i did think that those numbers did'nt sound right, but its what the book said????

so what now? and what did i do wrong? is it cause i had a socket extension on the torque wrench? or what? i just had a little extension to convert the torque wrench from a 1/2" to a 1/4" thats all

how would i get broken end of the service bolt out of the banjo bolt?
and why does it say to even torque that tiny little service bolt that tight???

any info would be cool, cause i was going to need the car as soon as possible, and also any explanation on why torque number so high on such a tiny little weak bolt? or point out anything i did wrong? thanks

Jaker

Have a closer look at those torque specs. I bet it actually says 108 in/lbs (9 ft/lbs).

fastcrxsi90

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have a closer look at those torque specs. I bet it actually says 108 in/lbs (9 ft/lbs). </TD></TR></TABLE>



i <u>know</u> it says that

crxaddikt

oh my god, are you serious,
i know i looked really closely at it, but i thought i just saw one number, and assumed ft/lbs, but why the hell would they show in inches anyway? just to **** with peoples heads, lol i'll look at it when i get home, thanks

Jaker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxaddikt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why the hell would they show in inches anyway? just to **** with peoples heads, lol i'll look at it when i get home, thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Think carefully: why would they have you torque the service bolt on your fuel filter tighter than the lugnuts on your wheels? Did this not raise a red flag when you read it?

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxaddikt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh my god, are you serious,
i know i looked really closely at it, but i thought i just saw one number, and assumed ft/lbs, but why the hell would they show in inches anyway? just to **** with peoples heads, lol i'll look at it when i get home, thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

OUCH!

you mean you've never had to deal with any of the bogger bolts on the motor like head bolts or mount bolts? the big head bolts for B series motors are like 70 ft-lbs, and tranny mount bolts are around 50 ft-lbs. Small bolts like that service bolt, VTEC solenoid to head bolts, and valve cover stud/nuts are only in the 7 to 9 ft-lbs range. Which is around 90-108 in-lbs.

Here is a thread I made a few weeks ago with some common torque spec numbers you'll run into when doing swaps or regular maintenance.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=953151

EDIT: oh yah, you should probably just get a new service bolt and new banjo bolt. The banjo bolt is only a few dollars anyways.

91civicEX

if its just the service bolt it should still run right? all oyu need is a new banjo bolt and a new service bolt.

crxaddikt

i know part of it should be common sense, and i should of thought it was a high number, that was stupid of me, but now my question is how do i do it in inches-lbs?

cause i picked up a new service bolt, and i went home yesterday and looked at the haynes manual i have, and its just mainly a habit that i do it in ft-lbs, cause i have used this manual for a while and done suspension, brakes, tuneups, valve adjustments, and on all those it just simply lists numbers like : 56
78
48
84,
but this time in parenthesis, it says (ft-lbs unless otherwise stated), and it only had this like a couple times in the whole book, so you can see how easy it is to miss it.

but now my question is, since my torque wrench only has foot/pounds written on it, and it has another row of numbers on the dial saying metric or something, how do i even tighten it in Inches-Pounds ? cause i did'nt know, and my internet at home did'nt work, and i called my friend who knows way more than me and he did'nt even know, lol, he just said look up a conversion chart on the net, but its like why did'nt the manual just simply put it in foot/pounds? why make such a little thing so difficult?

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxaddikt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but now my question is, since my torque wrench only has foot/pounds written on it, and it has another row of numbers on the dial saying metric or something, how do i even tighten it in Inches-Pounds ? cause i did'nt know, and my internet at home did'nt work, and i called my friend who knows way more than me and he did'nt even know, lol, he just said look up a conversion chart on the net, but its like why did'nt the manual just simply put it in foot/pounds? why make such a little thing so difficult? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Try going to your local NAPA or Autozone and pick up a beam type torque wrench. They are usually set to read in-lbs instead of ft-lbs. I actually like the beam type better then the ceap clicker type torque wrenches because I'm less likely to break a bolt. If you've never seen one before, this is what a beam torque wrench looks like.

crxaddikt

thanks, i guess i might have to buy that, just sucks i would have to buy another torque wrench, but if its better than thats a plus, i with i can just have an electronic accurate one that does inches/pounds and foot/pounds

also, could i just calculate what 108 inch/pounds would be somehow? like since there are 12 inches in a foot? or do i really need to buy that beam torque wrench?

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxaddikt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, i guess i might have to buy that, just sucks i would have to buy another torque wrench, but if its better than thats a plus, i with i can just have an electronic accurate one that does inches/pounds and foot/pounds

also, could i just calculate what 108 inch/pounds would be somehow? like since there are 12 inches in a foot? or do i really need to buy that beam torque wrench?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will also be buying one of those expensive electronic torque wrenches after I find out which one is the best. For now though a $50 clicker wrench for large torque adjustments and a $70 beam torque wrench for smaller adjusments is what I'm using.

Now for converting ft-lbs to in-lbs just use the below link. However I dont think you'll want to use a clicker type torque wrench for small adjustments. I've broken several bolts, because the clicker mechanism didn't go off. One of the bolts I broke was a cam cap bolt and it was only meant to be torqued down to 20 ft-lbs. Unfortunately my clicker wrench didn't click. After I got the broken stud out I bought and used a beam wrench and it gave me an accurate reading. The good thing about a beam wrench is you'll know if you are above or below your target torque spec.

Anyways, here is the link that converts ft-lbs to in-lbs. It's what I usd to make up that other list in both ft-lbs and in-lbs.

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

EDIT: 108 IN-LBS is equal to 9 FT-LBS, but if you set your clicker torque wrench to such a low value it might not even click. So you could end up going over 9 FT-LBS without even knowing it, and you could snap a bolt.

crxaddikt

thanks for the link, i'll check it out
its funny, i just realised , i have a torque wrench with a metal needle against a dial, but there is really no click, i have just turned on a bolt til the needle is pointing to the right number, but its off alittle cause when the needle is centered, it should be at zero, but instead its at 5 ft-lbs, so i just read 5 ahead.

so your saying a click type is'nt the greatest and now i realise mines so cheap it does'nt even click and is probably even less accurate.

but when you said 70 bucks for the beam one, i really don't know if i want to get that now just in order to tighten a tiny little service bolt, i would like to avoid getting that now if possible, but on the other hand i like doing things the right way, especially since this is a fuel line, and i am just being cautious since this is the first time messing with anything in the fuel system.

BlueShadow

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxaddikt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so your saying a click type is'nt the greatest and now i realise mines so cheap it does'nt even click and is probably even less accurate.

but when you said 70 bucks for the beam one, i really don't know if i want to get that now just in order to tighten a tiny little service bolt, i would like to avoid getting that now if possible, but on the other hand i like doing things the right way, especially since this is a fuel line, and i am just being cautious since this is the first time messing with anything in the fuel system.</TD></TR></TABLE>

About the clicker qrenches being inaccurate, that's just my personal thing. After breaking that cam cap bolt, I was afraid to use that wrench on small bolts. So I bought a beam wrench just for small bolts. However I was doing a complete engine assembly and install, so the cost was well worth it.

Now whether you buy one and keep it or if you just borrow/rent it from a friend/Autozone depends on how much you work on your car. My wrench goes all the way up to 600 in/lbs which is 50 ft-lbs. So I can use it for the smallest bolts up to some of the bigger engine mount bolts. If you look at the torqu specs list in my other link, yoiu'll see that you can use it on a lot of bolts. The only thing on that list I couldn't do with my beam wrench were the head bolts, flywheel bolts, one of the mount bolts, axle spindle nut and the crankpulley bolt.

crxaddikt

i ended up drilling the broken part of the service bolt out of the banjo bolt with a titanium drill bit, then i just did like you said and just tightened to around 9 ft-lbs, and started it up with rags just in case and ran for a while looking around and its all cool, no leaks, so thanks for the tips. and i don't know why people always say it sprays fuel all over and you need rags, cause it never did barely at all, only a tiny bit around service bolt for a sec, but thats it

not sure if i can feel a difference, i mean it feels good, but i was expecting a bigger difference, cause this is the only time i have changed it, and who knows it could be the original 168,000 mile old fuel filter? either that or even if it was replaced from the first owner at around 60,000 miles, then it would be about time for another around 120,000 anyway.

next i'm going to put that chevron fuel injector cleaner stuff just to maybe help clean out a little.