Ceolmhor

My son and I are preparing a 1989 Civic Si Hatchback for SCCA Solo2 competition. The engine in the car had seen very heavy use and was gulping oil, so we bought a used engine (still D16A6, as we're running STS -- Sport Touring-Stock). We did the exchange and have had strange behavior as we tried to start the engine. Initially, we got a rapidly flashing engine check light (maybe 8 flashes per second, constantly, with an audible relay sound at the same rate). We checked the connectors on the wiring harness, and found one that folks had put some sort of white gunk into. We cleaned it up and, to our amazement, the check engine light behaved normally. We started the engine and it ran, sounding completely normal for about 10 seconds. Then we heard a screech which we believe was the alternator belt. Both of us felt we recognized the sound, but of course, we shut the engine off instantly. We checked the belt tension, and it seemed OK, but this is a new car for both of us, and we're not yet calibrated regarding correct belt tension for it. We then started the engine again. It ran for 2-3 seconds and then suddenly stopped on its own. Ever since then, we get the rapidly flashing engine check light, with no code, just continuous rapid flashing.

Obviously, we went back to that connector and cleaned it further, but it didn't help. I hear no fuel pump noise when I turn the ignition on, and our guess is that the engine ran on the fuel in the filter until it was exhausted, then stopped. So I have two questions:

1. What causes such a rapidly flashing engine check light?

2. Any ideas in general about our problem?

We're trying to get the car ready for a National Tour event that starts this Friday, so any possible quick help would be greatly appreciated.

We did try connecting the engine check jumper, which on our car (USDM model, but made in Japan, purchased originally as Showroom Stock racer), it's in the engine compartment over the left fender. No effect.

Magick211

When you say the harnes had white gunk stuff in it. what part of it are you talking about.

Are you talking abour the big clip on the passanger side firewall? if so its normally has a paste stuff in it.

If you arent getting a fuel pump hum when you turn the key on. you could have a bad main relay. The main relay could also be the relay you hear clicking really fast.

elmalouno

Do you have another ecu you could try?

the main relay is located under the driverside of the dash, sort of tucked up above the hood release. should be one 10mm bolt holding it in, its a small black box with a bracket for the bolt and a plug of wires going into it. Most of the time this quick repair will work. get out your soldering iron and some solder. pop the cover off the relay and you will have a little green board with a dozen or so solder points. one by one, heat up a point untill the solder goes liquid and then touch alittle fresh solder to the liquid point. once you do this to all the points you should be good to go. when doing this it may look hectic in a few places, like the solder from different points will melt together, but its actually pretty hard to do this. just take your time and its an easy fix.

if you have any problems feel free to ask

Ceolmhor

Thanks, Magick211. That makes perfect sense, now that I've studied what that relay does. And it does indeed fail one of its continuity tests. We'll have a replacement part this evening, and hopefully be back in business. I really appreciate your pointing us in the right direction.

Ceolmhor

Elmalouno,

Thanks for the suggestion. I tried resoldering, but it didn't help. We have a replacement part ordered, and should have it tonight.

We have only the one ECU, though we'll need to buy or borrow another so we can send this one in for reburning.

g24jr

my car did the same thing and then i found out the ground on the thermostat was loose
tighten that ground and see if that works

Skinflute22

yeah could be a ground...that would explain the weird behavior of the electronics

Magick211

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ceolmhor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks, Magick211. That makes perfect sense, now that I've studied what that relay does. And it does indeed fail one of its continuity tests. We'll have a replacement part this evening, and hopefully be back in business. I really appreciate your pointing us in the right direction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok let me know how it goes ok

Magick211

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by g24jr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my car did the same thing and then i found out the ground on the thermostat was loose
tighten that ground and see if that works</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah that could be it also, i bileve that ground on the thermostat is the main sensor ground. Correct?

Arvid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ceolmhor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We did try connecting the engine check jumper, which on our car (USDM model, but made in Japan, purchased originally as Showroom Stock racer), it's in the engine compartment over the left fender. No effect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That´s not the check engine jumper. That jumper is for setting the iginition timing. To check codes you just torun on the ignition and look at the LED on the ECU.

I´ve also had flashing CEL light when attempting to start my car. It was caused by wiring errors on the distributor.