vegaskurt

I got the b2 head off my d15. Luckily 90% of the old gasket came off with the head. The pistons look great and I can see my reflection in the cylinder walls.

My question is how do I get all the left over crap off the block? Is it 100% nescessary to get the block down to metal? I figure I will have to plug up the pistons and oil wells and spray gasket remover on it and use a plastic scrapper. If anyone has a better method I am all ears.

Tyson

get a pack of razor blades. scrape as much crap as you can. use as shallow of an angle possible. if you are not careful, the blade will dig into the block and create knicks.

then get some green scotch brite and use wd40 and remove the remaining stuff. it helps if you have a rotary tool, you can buy circular end bits. but do not focus on one spot too long and work in circles. if it doesnt come off, do not try to keep going at it with the abrasive pad. get the razor out again and try again. if you use the abrasive pad to get a big/thick patch of gasket left, youll start to take too much off the surface AROUND the patch, which is no good either. so take it slow. it takes patience.

yeah, dont forgot to stuff some paper towel in each of the oil and coolant passages. i would flush the coolant a bit extra when you fill the radiator back up, and change the oil pretty soon after.

the easiest way, however, is getting both the block and head milled.... itll be SUPER clean then!

NastyHabitzCRX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vegaskurt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The pistons look great and I can see my reflection in the cylinder walls.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>thats not good, you shoud see hone marks. not smoothness, meaning your rings have worn the cylinders smooth.

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">then get some green scotch brite and use wd40 and remove the remaining stuff. it helps if you have a rotary tool, you can buy circular end bits. but do not focus on one spot too long and work in circles. if it doesnt come off, do not try to keep going at it with the abrasive pad. get the razor out again and try again. if you use the abrasive pad to get a big/thick patch of gasket left, youll start to take too much off the surface AROUND the patch, which is no good either. so take it slow. it takes patience.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would avoid Scotch-Brite pads. ESPECIALLY on a powered tool. The BIG problem here is that a Scotch-Brite pad will EASILY remove aluminum. My recommendation is that you use a remover like Permatex Gasket Remover and a relatively wide and sharp chisel. The chisel is a really good tool to use since it can't bend (which will gouge the surface). Also remember that patience is key - this is NOT an easy job. And once you are finished, do yourself a favor and buy a 1992-1995 D16Z6 head gasket instead of another stocker. The D16Z6 gasket is metal and will not require the nightmare job of removal should you have to pull the head ever again.

vegaskurt

Thanks for all the advice. I used two cans of the gasket remover and a plastic bondo putty knife to get it off. The cylinder walls are smooth looking, but if I look real close I can still see some of the hash marks from the factory hone. I'll drive with this block until it dies.

I got the Y8 gasket and got the head mounted and torqued last night, tonight I will time it and get it all back together.